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290 reverse lockout problem

On the 290 drive, the part that you are calling a "Reverse Lockout" unit is first an impact break-a-way feature. It has taken on the name Reverse Latch from the earlier days. It does need to latch onto the set-pin equivalent in order to reverse without the drive kicking up.

Look closely at the stamped SS component.
This part prevents the latch hook bearing sleeve from rotating when the drive is articulating.
If this part is bent, and if bearing sleeve was to rotate, the latch hooks may mis-align and may not hold.


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Thanks. Can you tell me if it's supposed to act like it does in the video above when on the trailer and I'm lifting the drive by hand? Is the stamped ss component you are talking about that upside down T in the vid? It does looked to be off kilter.
-Robert
 

Look closely at the stamped SS component.
This part prevents the latch hook bearing sleeve from rotating when the drive is articulating.
If this part is bent, and if bearing sleeve was to rotate, the latch hooks may mis-align and may not hold.

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IMG_1243.jpg

Is this the part you you are talking about? What is it supposed to look like?
-Robert
 
View attachment 16602

Is this the part you you are talking about? What is it supposed to look like?
-Robert

Robert, yes..... that is the part. Yours is twisted and is bent.

MarinePartsEurope refers to it as a Guide Washer.
It is shown here as SEQ #13 and/or SEQ #48.

It must hold the bearing sleeve (SEQ #32) in position in order for both latch hooks to remain perpendicular to the "set pin" equivalent.
(the 290 set pin is stationary..... and is non-removable)

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/PentaPictures1000/8854.jpg


 

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Robert, yes..... that is the part. Yours is twisted and is bent.

MarinePartsEurope refers to it as a Guide Washer.
It is shown here as SEQ #13 and/or SEQ #48.

It must hold the bearing sleeve (SEQ #32) in position in order for both latch hooks to remain perpendicular to the "set pin" equivalent.
(the 290 set pin is stationary..... and is non-removable)

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/PentaPictures1000/8854.jpg



Thank Rick,
Have you looked at the video in the first post? Is that how things are suppose to behave? In other word when I start to lift the drive by hand are the hooks supposed to rise up like that to catch the pin? I can't raise the drive by hand in forward or reverse more than a few inches unless I release it manually like I did I the vid. Can all my issues be related to that bent part? Thanks for your help.
-Robert
 
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Thank Rick,
Have you looked at the video in the first post?
Yes!

Is that how things are suppose to behave?
I mentioned that this part's job is to prevent the Bearing Sleeve from rotating when the drive articulates.
In other words...... we want the latch hooks (and all related parts) to remain perpendicular to the "set pin" equivalent
(SEQ #17.... aka "shaft") .... yet allow the drive to articulate to Port/Stbd with no issues.

In other word when I start to lift the drive by hand are the hooks supposed to rise up like that to catch the pin?
The "latch hooks" will typically rise up some until they grab and hold onto the Anchorage Bracket's set pin equivalent .
They should continue holding the Intermediate housing to the SS Anchorage Bracket while reversing.


I can't raise the drive by hand in forward or reverse more than a few inches unless I release it manually like I did I the vid.
That is correct!
Please understand that this is used as a "break-a-way" feature for impact protection.
You may not see this easily...... but the latch hook (at their pivot point) will become "over-centered" in the event of excessive force against the set pin..... hence the
"break-a-way" aspect.

Can all my issues be related to that bent part?
Well ..... perhaps first explain exactly what the issues are!
Is the drive kicking up while reversing?
Are you bothered by an exceptional clunk when going into reverse?




-Robert
 
Thanks for the detailed post Rick. Yes the drive kicks up in reverse. It does clunk some when going into reverse but I think it does going into forward too. I'll pay attention next time out. If it is excessive what does that mean and how is it fixed? The reverse kick up is definitely a big problem.
-Robert
 
Thanks for the detailed post Rick. Yes the drive kicks up in reverse. It does clunk some when going into reverse but I think it does going into forward too. I'll pay attention next time out. If it is excessive what does that mean and how is it fixed? The reverse kick up is definitely a big problem.
-Robert
And can I bend that bent part to make it work?
 
And to be honest I don't see how that part is supposed to work even if it weren't bent. When I observe it while someone is shifting and turning the drive it doesn't seem like it would act any differently if it were fixed.
-Robert
 
Re: "...I can't raise the drive by hand in forward or reverse more than a few inches unless I release it manually like I did I the vid."
You're not supposed to be able to lift the drive by hand in FWD unless you are King Kong, and even he would not be able to lift the drive by hand ( without picking up the whole boat) while shifted into reverse.

The latch hooks #33 that physically engage the set pin on the transom shield have tips that wear. Even slight wear will cause then not to latch up in reverse. Collar #40 either prevents the latch hooks from releasing at all ( when rod 6 engages collar #40 in reverse) or allows them the release the set pin after a certain amount of force (you hot something) is applied to overcome the spring tension of the springs on 33.
 
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Went for a little spin today to test it out. When we first launched it didn't kick up in reverse. The next time we put it in reverse it clunked pretty loud and kicked up. By turning the wheel hard to either port or starboard it didn't kick up in reverse. Does that sound like I need new latches? If so are they fairly easy to replace? Thanks for any help
-Robert
 
At what RPM are you shifting? Kick up and clunk into reverse not usually the same problem. With worn lathes, if you are moving forward, slow down and shift into reverse before the boat comes to an absolute complete dead stop, the drive will kick up due to water pressure from the boat's motion on the prop disengaging the latch pins from the stop pin. This is especially bad if you have a large diameter/large pitch prop due to the larger area of the prop blades. A clunk shifting into fwd too soon after a reverse kickup is the drive slamming into the transom stop pin by being driven there by prop thrust by shifting into fwd while the drive is still "up". You can break the stop pin doing this.
 
At what RPM are you shifting? Kick up and clunk into reverse not usually the same problem. With worn lathes, if you are moving forward, slow down and shift into reverse before the boat comes to an absolute complete dead stop, the drive will kick up due to water pressure from the boat's motion on the prop disengaging the latch pins from the stop pin. This is especially bad if you have a large diameter/large pitch prop due to the larger area of the prop blades. A clunk shifting into fwd too soon after a reverse kickup is the drive slamming into the transom stop pin by being driven there by prop thrust by shifting into fwd while the drive is still "up". You can break the stop pin doing this.

It was doing it at dockside so RPMs weren't that high. It would only clunk just before popping up. If I turned it hard to one side it wouldn't clunk and wouldn't kick up. Do you think replacing the two catches will fix the problem? Is it fairly easy to do?
-Robert
 
1) Idle speed specified as 600-650RPM. Not supposed to shift above this RPM... or clunk.


"Perform the reverse interlock adjustment procedure per attached... recheck... for proper operation"

If you still have issues, then replace hooks as follows....


2) I was in error in previous post... #34 and #37 (right/left) is the hook that wears, NOT #33 sorry for confusion

3) If nut(s) #38 are too tight or washers #36 are missing, things will get funky. I adjust #38 as follows. Tighten until nut(s) are snug up against hook. Then back off 1/2 turn. Hooks #34 should be able to move freely but not have slop. This is before hooking up springs to #45. DO NOT REUSE these nuts!

4) 15-20 min job to replace...
a) With drive up and blocked.... use screwdriver to lever rod #45 out of the recesses on the end of #33 that they sit in.
b) Remove nuts #38
c) remove levers #34/37 with springs
d) I recommend new springs, but may not be necessary...however, you have the old ones in your hand at this point.
e) Attach springs to new #34 and 37
f) Remove washers #36 and clean, lube with thin film of waterproof marine grease and replace
g) lube #34 and #37 lightly
h) replace #34 and #37
i) Install new nuts #38 per above
j) attach springs to rod #45
k) use screwdriver to lever/pry #45 back in place on recesses on ends of #33.

View attachment volvo manual REV interlok.pdf

I have a *.pdf of the Volvo Owners Manual for a number of engine/drives that include the 290. Its too big to attach here. PM me with email address if you want a copy.
 
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Re: "...I can't raise the drive by hand in forward or reverse more than a few inches unless I release it manually like I did I the vid."
You're not supposed to be able to lift the drive by hand in FWD unless you are King Kong, and even he would not be able to lift the drive by hand ( without picking up the whole boat) while shifted into reverse.

The latch hooks #33 that physically engage the set pin on the transom shield have tips that wear.
The 290 set pin equivalent (SEQ #17.... aka "shaft") is part of the Anchorage Bracket...... it is not attached to the transom shield as is with a Pre-290 drive!

Even slight wear will cause then not to latch up in reverse. Collar #40 either prevents the latch hooks from releasing at all ( when rod 6 engages collar #40 in reverse) or allows them the release the set pin after a certain amount of force (you hot something) is applied to overcome the spring tension of the springs on 33.

Are you looking at the 290 schematic????
http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7743470-44-17648.aspx
 
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I was and then I wasn't.... sorry, tabbed on a small screen computer (a net book) to wrong page...had both open

Should read.... ( thanks for the save Ricardo!)

"Even slight wear will cause them not to latch up in reverse. Collar #41 either prevents the latch hooks from releasing at all ( when rod 6 engages collar #41 in reverse) or allows them the release the set pin after a certain amount of force (you HIT something) is applied to overcome the spring tension of the springs on hooks 34/37."

Should have added that wear (or crud) on set pin will also cause a problem.
 
Thanks for the responses guys. I am starting to figure this thing out with your help :). In the post above it sounds like in reverse the collar prevents the latch hooks from releasing "at all". When I lift the drive by hand I can get it to lift a few inches before the latch mechanism moves up and engages the shaft. I can then reach back and release the mech by hand by pushing the mech down and then I can lift the drive all the way up . I can do this in forward and reverse. Is this normal?

Also from the directions above it looks like replacing #34and 37 is pretty easy. I don't quite understand the lever/pry #45 part. Don't you just need to remove the nuts an replace the parts? Am I missing something
-Robert
 
Thanks for the responses guys. I am starting to figure this thing out with your help :). In the post above it sounds like in reverse the collar prevents the latch hooks from releasing "at all". When I lift the drive by hand I can get it to lift a few inches before the latch mechanism moves up and engages the shaft. I can then reach back and release the mech by hand by pushing the mech down and then I can lift the drive all the way up . I can do this in forward and reverse. Is this normal?

Also from the directions above it looks like replacing #34and 37 is pretty easy. I don't quite understand the lever/pry #45 part. Don't you just need to remove the nuts an replace the parts? Am I missing something
-Robert

To clarify what I mean by the first paragraph above, the spring hooks (34 and 37) don't touch the shaft (I think #17) until I start to lift the drive by hand. In other words it's not "latched" at all until the drive lifts a bit. And I still don't understand the lever/pry thing in the second paragraph.
-Robert
 
Yes, you can just remove the nuts, however, the hooks will be axially loaded by the springs and very difficult to slide off the #35 shafts that the nuts were on... and if you did, you could end up with flying parts. Prying the #45 shaft which is retained in the recesses in the ends of the #33 by the springs, releases the tension on the hooks so they can be easily slid off the #35 shaft.
 
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releases the tension on the hooks so they can be easily slid off the #35 shaft.

Ahh. That makes sense. Thanks. How about the other part of my question? Are the hooks supposed to contact the shaft at rest or only when the drive is lifted a few inches like in the vid at the beginning of the thread?
-Robert
 
.............................
I was and then I wasn't.... sorry, tabbed on a small screen computer (a net book) to wrong page...had both open

Should read.... ( thanks for the save Ricardo!)
Hey.... you are welcome. You have probably saved me a few times as well! :D

Thanks for the responses guys. I am starting to figure this thing out with your help :). In the post above it sounds like in reverse the collar prevents the latch hooks from releasing "at all". When I lift the drive by hand I can get it to lift a few inches before the latch mechanism moves up and engages the shaft. I can then reach back and release the mech by hand by pushing the mech down and then I can lift the drive all the way up . I can do this in forward and reverse. Is this normal?

Also from the directions above it looks like replacing #34and 37 is pretty easy. I don't quite understand the lever/pry #45 part. Don't you just need to remove the nuts an replace the parts? Am I missing something
-Robert
Since I am not sure which Volvo Penta schematic some of you are referring to, and since the SEQ#s can vary between schematics, I would ask that we stop using SEQ#s and refer to the part names that are commonly used in the US. :)
(see image below)

Ahh. That makes sense. Thanks. How about the other part of my question? Are the hooks supposed to contact the shaft at rest or only when the drive is lifted a few inches like in the vid at the beginning of the thread?
Robert, when this drive was new, the latch hooks would have made very close contact to the shaft.
As things wear, slack and play develops.
Have you tested the single center lift spring to see if it is stout enough to pull the unit UP?
 

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This is a 290 and/or S/P latch unit, plus a few other images that I had forgotten about.

Note the differences between this and the earlier 270, 275, 280, 285 units!


 

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From the the video below you can see that the latch hooks aren't touching the shaft at first. It's only when I manually lift the drive that the hooks move up to contact the shaft. If I try to force the latch assembly up by hand the drive will start to lift as the hooks move up. Is this normal?

 
If the latch hooks engaged the set pin all the time (especially in neutral) the lift motor would have to overcome the latch hooks spring loaded grip on the set pin when it tries to lift the drive.

Folks criticize the 200 series interlock, but it is a rather elegant bit of mechanical engineering. There is really only one very simple adjustment to make on it, and only one part (pair) subject to wear.

If you follow the manual, i.e., make the single specified simple adjustment and check for wear at a very specific point on a part... it works ( providing you keep it clean from paint and marine growth).
 
Bob, all due respect… this is a 290 sterndrive with hydraulic trim and tilt out.
The base end of the cylinders attach to the transom shield.
The stem end of the cylinders attach to the anchorage bracket.
The anchorage bracket hinges on the main suspension fork.
The intermediate housing is held to the anchorage bracket via the latch system while reversing.

There is no mechanical link (from a lift unit) to the latch mechanism.
Other than catching and holding on to the shaft (set pin), the latch hook unit is independent of any other mechanism or device.




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There is no mechanical link (from a lift unit) to the latch mechanism.
Other than catching and holding on to the shaft (set pin), the latch hook unit is independent of any other mechanism or device.
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Is the latch supposed to act like it does in the above vid? Is it supposed to move up and contact the latch when the drive is manually lifted or is it supposed to contact the shaft all the time?
 
When you shift it into reverse does the link rod #6 in the diagram push all the way down on the brace item #40? That should keep the reverse lock down tight until you shift out of reverse. The rod connects to the yoke item #2
 
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