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77 Evinrude 85 h.p , will not idle

I will have to run to autozone and get another one this one is inaccurate amd broke piss me off I'll get back to you in 40 min have to load the kiddos up
 
every one jumped a half a inch, the reason the other one was unreliable was the plastic thread stripped and my wife didn't tell me it was getting closer
 
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I also just purchased a select manual should be here in a couple days inhate how vague the clymer manual is my bad SELOC stupid auto correct
 
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Ok just to weigh in. 95 is not too bad would like more on all cylinders. If Cylinder 4 is misfiring. Probably should replace all 4 wires as you said they were old.
Once you rebuild carbs and change fuel pump and water pump, Do the "Joe Reeves" Link and Sync. 1 hint undo the throttle cable before you do the link n sync.
Once you finish make the cable fit the motor not the other way round.
 
yea ironically I was just looking at the reeves timing, I rebuilt the carbs it seems to run better but I know I have something messed up when I screwed with the linkage to keep it running so after I replace the waterpump and fuel pump I'll just have my wife help me get the timing right and hopefully that will be that, I had a broken spark gage I doubt I have a misfire they all made the gap of at least a half an inch , hopefully after all this I can finally relax and go fishing lol I'm supposed to be on vacation this past week and a half but its turned into boat and vehicle work o well **** happens
 
so I rebuilt the carbs I'm going to replace the fuel filter , redo the timing, replace water pump and imprller, and decarb the engine I'm going to do the joe way of doing the timing it seems way easier ,
my question is should I do the timing and decarb first, or wait until everything is done, or does it not matter and I am over thinking it
 
so I decided the best way would be to do the time and then the pump, I did the joe method, it was out 7 degrees, there was Mark's from the previous owner on the flywheel so i am assuming he screwed the timing up,
Now i have to do a link and sync , my problem Is my SELOC and CLYMER manual are both pretty vague, should I put the idle stop at about half way and adjust the throttle cable as needed? or does anyone know of a video or a more detailed method is located?
1977 85 h.p Evinrude , I know I am probably way over thinking this , I have the rest of the week off work, And I just really want to go fishing again, thankyou for your guys help
 
so I decided the best way would be to do the time and then the pump, I did the joe method, it was out 7 degrees, there was Mark's from the previous owner on the flywheel so i am assuming he screwed the timing up,
Now i have to do a link and sync , my problem Is my SELOC and CLYMER manual are both pretty vague, should I put the idle stop at about half way and adjust the throttle cable as needed? or does anyone know of a video or a more detailed method is located?
1977 85 h.p Evinrude ,
I know I am probably way over thinking this , I have the rest of the week off work, And I just really want to go fishing again, thankyou for your guys help
 
Now i have to do a link and sync , my problem Is my SELOC and CLYMER manual are both pretty vague, does anyone know of a video or a more detailed method is located?

Actually, it's not that complex.

However, if the adjustment has been changed between the vertical throttle arm and the cam that slides against the throttle roller... the idle timing will need to be checked and possible readjusted.

1 - Back the idle stop screw out so that it's not touching anything.

2 - Loosen the throttle roller set screw so the roller can be backed away from the metal cam... NOT touching!

3 - Adjust the linkage between the carburetors so that the throttle butter flies open & close at the same time. You DO NOT want one butterfly closed and one ever so slightly open.

4 - Now, adjust the throttle roller so that the throttle butterflies just start to open when the scribe mark of the cam is dead center with the roller. Lock down the set screw.

5 - When you have the idle rpm where it belongs, screw in the idle stop screw just to where it touches the block.

That's it... as long as the Idle Timing hasn't been tinkered with (Threaded rod w/nylon connector).
 
that's sounds so much easier then what I have been reading over and over , the carbs have not been messed with but the idle screw and that has been, so I just loosen the cam roller line it up and then adjust the idle screw to touch the block after adjustments have been made
thank you so much, if I have messed up or misread what you put please let me know, again thanks you guys have been so helpful, hopefully get the family out fishing this weekend after I replace the pump
 
also would your method with the w.o.t timing work with idle?

I must confess that I've never encountered having to check that via my method. However the 4 degree difference comes in effect due to the high rpm actually encountered when running.

Now, pertaining to the idle timing... cranking or actually running, the engine is not encountering that extreme high rpm count so I would assume that the timing at cranking speed would be the actual degree mark as specified in your manual.

When you have time, compare the idle timing at cranking speed with a check of the idle timing under actual idle running conditions to see if there's a difference and let us know of your findings.
 
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yea that makes sense , I just wanted to get everything good to go, lake isnt the closest and I read you shouldn't get the idle with the muffs on because there is no back pressure otherwise I would do it that way
 
yea that makes sense , I just wanted to get everything good to go, lake isnt the closest and I read you shouldn't get the idle with the muffs on because there is no back pressure otherwise I would do it that way

The reasoning for that is....... if you actually set the idle to the recommended rpm, as if it was in the water, the rpm would drop so low when you finally put the rig in the water that the engine would stall.

You can set the idle using a flushette by setting the idle as follows:

20" shaft engine = 1000 rpm
25" shaft engine = 1200 rpm

In the water, the rpms will drop to the normal idle rpm.
 
ok so I tried setting the idle time by just cranking I have my idle screw completely bottomed out and still have to go back always yet , also I've been reading your cam follower should not be in constant contact but it appears that is how mine is constructed see attached photos, maybe I should just set the idle screw half way and adjust the cam followed accordingly and hope I can get the timing right on the lake with the idle screw20190828_144821_compress82.jpg20190828_144744_compress95.jpg
 
ok so I hooked the hoose up to it started up right away seemed to be stuttering I know I need new plugs and the waterpump has got to be changed I just thought I could test it to see if it run , after a couple times of trying to keep the idle down without the warm up and I was playing with the choke the damn thing pretty much ran away on me lol on for a couple seconds but scares the hell out of me I think either the electronic choke stuck , I'm just going to wait to put it in the water for the idle i have the w.o t timed right ... it's just i have elderly neighbors pretty close trying to be respectful with the noise
 
scared the hell out of me but I think I just have to lube up the electronic choke, since I readjusted it to its proper place
 
I also had the front cover and gasket off the carbs idk if that contributed, I just hope I can get it to idle out on the lake after I replace the waterpump and screen and install a tach heat guage and volt meter
 
so I am spraying carbon cleaner in the pistons to soak until I take off the lower unit and replace the pump screen impeller , I'm not sure if the cam is supposed to be touching all the way neither manual says so, but I guess my main question is since I used Joe's method and set w.o.t and set the cam screw I should be ok going out on the water and just adjusting the idle with a flathead and away I go? I wish there was measurements in the manual to what everything should be, I'm also going to run seafoam when I get it to the lake because the carbon is BAD build up when I looked into the cylinder
 
also wondering if you guys think it would be a good idea to replace the vernatherm "thermastat", or at least just take it apart and look for parts of the impeller I shredded., so far everything I have replaced has been original, sorry for the stupid questions it's just ridiculous to get at on my engine
 
ok so I tried setting the idle time by just cranking I have my idle screw completely bottomed out and still have to go back always yet , also I've been reading your cam follower should not be in constant contact but it appears that is how mine is constructed see attached photos, maybe I should just set the idle screw half way and adjust the cam followed accordingly and hope I can get the timing right on the lake with the idle screw

I've read this #47 post and all the following ones... and frankly it sounds like you do not retain what's been said to you.

The "Idle Stop Screw" serves absolutely no purpose other that the keep the engine idle from dropping lower than its final setting. It has nothing to do with the timing. Simply back it away from touching anything until you're finished.

The throttle roller.... you've been told to loosen the roller set screw and to set the roller so that the scribe mark on the cam touches the roller ONLY when it is dead center with the roller.... and that is when the throttle butterflies are to just start opening.
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Then you go on to state that maybe you should adjust the cam??? There is no adjusting the cam!... excepting to set the idle timing which perhaps is the first thing you should do to make sure the cam is set where it's supposed to be.

To do this, have "all" S/plugs removed... Have the timing kite attached to the #1 s/plug wire... Crank the engine and set the idle timing to whatever your manual states 1,2,3,4 degrees, whatever... Now, at that specified Idle Degree setting, the scribe mark on the cam should be dead center with the roller. If it is not, adjust that nylon yoke until it is.
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so once I get the idle timing to what is should be I should adjust this to the cam scrib mark
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and move this until idle timing is correct and adjust cam yoke and idle screw accordingly
I'm sorry if you are losing patience with me my first outboard
 
so when the cam is at the scribe mark the file timing should be right on

The scribe mark is part of the cam.

When the scribe mark of the cam is dead center with the roller (and the butterflies are still closed)... the idle timing should be right on.
 
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so this is where the timing is
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this where the cam and follower is
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and this is where I get confused because even with the idle screw screwed all the way in it drops the timing so much that it kills the engine every time idk if the screw was replaced something else was fooled with, but screw it I'm just going to buy a longer stupid screw
 
It appears that my knowledge is not sufficient to carry this any further forward so I'll back out of here and turn it over to another member.

However... a suggestion.... hold that camera a different angle when taking pictures, whatever it takes so that when pictures are inserted, they aren't sideways and aimed upwards.
 
Have to ask.----Do you know what " idle timing " means on your motor , yes , no , not sure or comfused ?-----It is the point where throttle plates open.-----Not a hard fast rule of where it should be when idling.----Where it actually idles smoothly ( if in good condition ) does not matter !----This is not the same as a 283 small block timing setting procedure.
 
yes I will keep this in mind when taking pictures they get compressed to be put on the thread and that what they do for some reason , but anyways yes I guess that's where I started getting confused is with the idle timing thanks for clearing that up, but anyways the factory screw for some reason screwed all the way in could not keep the engine idle , I know there is a **** ton of carbon build up which is why my engine almost blew up yesterday , but I will make sure the "idle timing" is to where the throttle plates just start to open, and I bought a longer screw , i just spoke to the original owner about anything he might have done to the engine and he said he never touched it but his 16 y.o did play with it sometimes, which could have been why the w.o.t was off, but I will put the new screw in and replace the impeller water pump and take it to the lake to try and get the carbon build up off and maybe get the idle down I guess that is kinda my last resort, if anyone has any tips or advice please let me know

Also thanks joe for your help sorry I got confused
And thanks raceone if you have any other advice I would appreciate it , I guess my takeaway is to stop comparing this to a car engine with the carbs and all with the terminology, this is all new to me I thought an engine is an engine and it got me into trouble lol

also I purchased a tiny tach the marine version a heat guage and volt meter because all it had is a mph guage , hopefully I can fine tune the idle with the rpms if I'm lucky and the engine cooperates
 
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