J
Joe Thomas
Guest
"Engine: 1980 115hp Mercury ou
"Engine: 1980 115hp Mercury outboard w/quicksilver control box
Order of events:
Friday: Ran the boat on and off all day, ignition perfect, engine ran
fine.
Saturday morning: Connected boat running lights, cigarette lighter
(were previously unconnected). When testing the cigarette lighter, in
line fuse (from 12V +) blew. As a side note, I hadn't known which
terminal was or - on the lighter, and had them connected in reverse.
The engine ignition leads *had* been connected during this test.
Saturday afternoon: Went to take the boat for a spin. Turned the key,
cranked normally for about two seconds, let key go. Turned key again
w/choke. Completely dead from that point on, w/ no clicking from the
solenoid.
Charged the battery for 12 hours, still no good. Tried a new battery,
still no good. Then:
I followed the instructions in the Seloc Mercury Outboard Tune-up and
Repair Manual (1965 - 1986):
1. Ignition switch (wiring harness test). I did this test with 1 $15
multi range tester (incuding an XK1 setting).
a. Connected pin 7 & pin 4 to ohmmeter, with key OFF. Manual says
should be continuity, but no ohmmeter reading.
b. Connected pin 1 & pin 3 to ohmmeter, key in RUN/START. Manual
says should be continuity, but no ohmmeter reading.
Ironically, when I try this with a simple filament tester by running
12VDC through the pins, a. 7 & 4 light up, but only when key is in
RUN/START. 1 & 3 do not light under any circumstances. Visibly,
ignition switch and solder connections on it seem to be fine. Don't
know what to make of procedure in manual and/or the multitester I'm
using.
2. Performed all the ignition tests listed in the cranking circuit
chapter (noting that my multirange tester gets an 11V reading from the
+ terminal on the solenoid, with - on the bottom of the starter):
a. Cranking Motor Solenoid test: small yellow/red connection to
solenoid common ground, key in START. No reading, good.
b. Neutral Start Switch: Common ground yellow wire connection on
ignition switch (assuming this switch is in the control box), key in
START. No reading, good.
c. Ignition Switch: Same as in b., but red wire connection, key
OFF. No reading, good.
d. Further tests for solenoid: Large yellow wire connection on
solenoid (goes to + on starter) to common ground, key in START. No
reading. According to manual, this means solenoid is defective. I
buy a new one.
Again, the multirange tester does get a reading from the + and -
battery leads.
Also checked inline fuse in red wire going to solenoid, was fine.
The starter itself is fine; if I bypass the solenoid with battery +
and - directly to it, it cranks.
Also, both old and new solenoid pass standalone solenoid test in
manual (+ and -) directly to small connections; solenoid clicks loud.
I replace the solenoid with the new one. After installing new one, no
change in behavior, no clicking with key in START.
Can anyone offer suggestions here? According to the manual, the
rectifier can get fried during situations like the one I described
with the cigarette ligher connection- but I noticed another message on
this board saying that the rectifier has nothing to do with starting,
only recharging the battery.
Thanks in advance,
Joe"
"Engine: 1980 115hp Mercury outboard w/quicksilver control box
Order of events:
Friday: Ran the boat on and off all day, ignition perfect, engine ran
fine.
Saturday morning: Connected boat running lights, cigarette lighter
(were previously unconnected). When testing the cigarette lighter, in
line fuse (from 12V +) blew. As a side note, I hadn't known which
terminal was or - on the lighter, and had them connected in reverse.
The engine ignition leads *had* been connected during this test.
Saturday afternoon: Went to take the boat for a spin. Turned the key,
cranked normally for about two seconds, let key go. Turned key again
w/choke. Completely dead from that point on, w/ no clicking from the
solenoid.
Charged the battery for 12 hours, still no good. Tried a new battery,
still no good. Then:
I followed the instructions in the Seloc Mercury Outboard Tune-up and
Repair Manual (1965 - 1986):
1. Ignition switch (wiring harness test). I did this test with 1 $15
multi range tester (incuding an XK1 setting).
a. Connected pin 7 & pin 4 to ohmmeter, with key OFF. Manual says
should be continuity, but no ohmmeter reading.
b. Connected pin 1 & pin 3 to ohmmeter, key in RUN/START. Manual
says should be continuity, but no ohmmeter reading.
Ironically, when I try this with a simple filament tester by running
12VDC through the pins, a. 7 & 4 light up, but only when key is in
RUN/START. 1 & 3 do not light under any circumstances. Visibly,
ignition switch and solder connections on it seem to be fine. Don't
know what to make of procedure in manual and/or the multitester I'm
using.
2. Performed all the ignition tests listed in the cranking circuit
chapter (noting that my multirange tester gets an 11V reading from the
+ terminal on the solenoid, with - on the bottom of the starter):
a. Cranking Motor Solenoid test: small yellow/red connection to
solenoid common ground, key in START. No reading, good.
b. Neutral Start Switch: Common ground yellow wire connection on
ignition switch (assuming this switch is in the control box), key in
START. No reading, good.
c. Ignition Switch: Same as in b., but red wire connection, key
OFF. No reading, good.
d. Further tests for solenoid: Large yellow wire connection on
solenoid (goes to + on starter) to common ground, key in START. No
reading. According to manual, this means solenoid is defective. I
buy a new one.
Again, the multirange tester does get a reading from the + and -
battery leads.
Also checked inline fuse in red wire going to solenoid, was fine.
The starter itself is fine; if I bypass the solenoid with battery +
and - directly to it, it cranks.
Also, both old and new solenoid pass standalone solenoid test in
manual (+ and -) directly to small connections; solenoid clicks loud.
I replace the solenoid with the new one. After installing new one, no
change in behavior, no clicking with key in START.
Can anyone offer suggestions here? According to the manual, the
rectifier can get fried during situations like the one I described
with the cigarette ligher connection- but I noticed another message on
this board saying that the rectifier has nothing to do with starting,
only recharging the battery.
Thanks in advance,
Joe"