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1968 twin 40hp evinrude no spark with one ignition wire?

M

mikemangold

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Put new plug to check . Still no fire. probly coil heh? Never pulled flywheel on ob. Is there a timing mark to watch for? signed, first timer/ but mechanically experienced.
 
Use the 3 bolt holes to pull the flywheel.------Inspect coils / points / condensers.---------------Set points at 0.020"-----Really no timing marks to worry about , unless you want to be exact , exact.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Timing is on point gap you want them at exactly .020 if the coils are cracked replace them they will go bad new points and condensers are recommended also. You need to pull the armature plate to change the coils you must install the plug wires and boots on the coils before you mount the coils or you will be back. If the shear key is good just make sure the flywheel nut is torqued to I believe 115 ft lbs I will check. Befor you pull the armature plate see if it wiggles up and down that will throw the timing off you want a nice tite smooth motion of the armature. Take a picture of the armature plate bottom so you know how all the wires go back on. Clean the new points with rubbing alcohol along with the feeler guage when you gap the points.
coilplacement.jpg
Mount the coils like this.
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Thank you i will check it out. I'am currently preforming continuity tests, and found the points, condenser and arm plate, as well as two small white top wires at solenoid to be common. Is this right? Arm plate appears to working proper, with out extra slack. After pulling Flywheel, I was surprised to see new, coils, points, ccondensers. I recently aquired this boat and motor, because the guy took it out for maiden vouage, ran for 20 mins, perfectly, then would not start again. sat for one year! Could the last mechanic have pinched something under arm plate? I don't know yet how to pull arm plate. Thank u for the pic buts its to blurry to see. Mike
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Do not apply battery power to the coils for even a split second or you will need new coil/s. The two small black wires from the armature plate are the kill circuit, when you short them together the engine dies. One should go to the cutout switch and up to the ignition switch M terminal the other goes strait to the ignition M terminal. With the key off it shorts the two together to kill the points like a lawnmower engine you short the points to ground to kill the motor. Is the plug not firing the same wire that goes to the cutout switch pull the two wires of the center terminal and screw them together and tape them off and then see if the plug fires. The cutout switch will disable one of the cylinders in a overrev condition so the engine dont run wild and throw a connecting rod. If the starter is working you dont need to fix it. Clean the points with alcohol and double check the gap at .020 and actuall all you have to do is pull the black wire from the armature to the cutout and tape it you can kill the engine by choking it. If you get spark on bot plug wires make sure the flywheel is torqued to spec and start it up in a barrel of water up past the cavitation plate. After a couple minutes you should get hot water out the upper exhaust hole the water should drip off your fingers pretty good comes out in nice hot fine mist if the water is cool the thermostat is stuck open and needs replaced. You will not be able to dial in the low idle air proper. By disconnecting the black wire from the cutout your disabling the kill circuit and from there you can determine where the fault is. Be very careful messing with the ignition switch wires battery voltage will cook a coil in no time.
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Wow! It was the cut out swich. Bolted center wires together and instantly had spark. Torqued fly to 115 ft lbs. Tryed to start( It fired) and fuel poured from carb. Now i pull the bowl and check float hang up. Thanks again you Salty Mechanic. Mike
 
mikemangold said:
Wow! It was the cut out swich. Bolted center wires together and instantly had spark. Torqued fly to 115 ft lbs. Tryed to start( It fired) and fuel poured from carb. Now i pull the bowl and check float hang up. Thanks again you Salty Mechanic. Mike
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Trying to start 40hp 1968 evinrude. When pumping squeeze ball, fuel pours out front of carb. Pulled bowl 3 times and float , needle and seat appear fine. With bowl off, I hold float up and it stops flow and bulb get hard, like it should. The cork float travels, and seat goes up and down nicely, untill i install bowl. and again fuel pours from throut of carb. What's up! mike
 
mikemangold said:
Trying to start 40hp 1968 evinrude. When pumping squeeze ball, fuel pours out front of carb. Pulled bowl 3 times and float , needle and seat appear fine. With bowl off, I hold float up and it stops flow and bulb get hard, like it should. The cork float travels, and seat goes up and down nicely, untill i install bowl. and again fuel pours from throut of carb. What's up! mike
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i am having this same thing please help it driving me nut . i have took this apart a lot and like this every thing looks fine the float floats when i put it in a glass of gas and i put it all back and still gas coming out i dont even have to squeeze the ball.when i go to start it and it allmost starts but fluds out rightaway and gas comes out i dont think its hanging up in there i can turn it upsidedown and the ball will get hard when i flip it over agen out come the gas.. thanks for any ones help
 
Turcotte Clyde said:
i am having this same thing please help it driving me nut . i have took this apart a lot and like this every thing looks fine the float floats when i put it in a glass of gas and i put it all back and still gas coming out i dont even have to squeeze the ball.when i go to start it and it allmost starts but fluds out rightaway and gas comes out i dont think its hanging up in there i can turn it upsidedown and the ball will get hard when i flip it over agen out come the gas.. thanks for any ones help
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