I am replacing the 3 L Volvo Penta engine in my 2002 Glastron SX175 with a new parts long block from Michigan motors.
The boat is in mint condition except for a cracked block. (My fault… I owned outboards before this. I knew I was supposed to drain the engine to prevent this, but stupidly thought most of the water would evaporate between September and the winter freeze.… It didn't!)
I have performed several automobile engine replacements using long block remanufactured engines, but have no marine engine removal experience.
I have read the debates between those forum members who recommend removal of outdrive/transom components, and those who advise the engine can be removed by itself, (Ricardo). I would prefer to remove only the engine and avoid having to replace any transom or outdrive seals. The transom and outdrive are in perfect condition with low hours and there is nothing which needs renewing during the disassembly. Also since I have no experience in transom or outdrive removal, I would prefer to leave these components alone if the engine can be swapped by itself.
I have several general questions regarding this straight engine swap.
1. Can I remove this engine by simply unbolting the engine from the flywheel through and inspection plates in the Bell housing, and removing the front engine mount bolts?
2. Is there anything tricky about disconnecting any of the control systems, tilt and trim hydraulics, or electronics that I should be aware of?
3. Are there any tips in getting the engine back in? Any tips on getting the splines to mate… Do I have a helper wiggle the propeller; do I jiggle the whole engine, or is there some other trick or tip?
4. I am hoping only the block is cracked, and that the intake/exhaust manifold is on damaged. Are there differences between installing the unified intake/exhaust manifold on a marine engine versus the separate units on an automobile engine?
5. The Michigan motors long block comes with the distributor already installed. Do I need to remove the distributor and use the distributor drive gears to pressurize the oil system prior to start up, or is there some other way to do this on this engine/
This is a great forum, with knowledgeable contributors. Any advice you can give me about this straight up engine swap would be greatly appreciated.
The boat is in mint condition except for a cracked block. (My fault… I owned outboards before this. I knew I was supposed to drain the engine to prevent this, but stupidly thought most of the water would evaporate between September and the winter freeze.… It didn't!)
I have performed several automobile engine replacements using long block remanufactured engines, but have no marine engine removal experience.
I have read the debates between those forum members who recommend removal of outdrive/transom components, and those who advise the engine can be removed by itself, (Ricardo). I would prefer to remove only the engine and avoid having to replace any transom or outdrive seals. The transom and outdrive are in perfect condition with low hours and there is nothing which needs renewing during the disassembly. Also since I have no experience in transom or outdrive removal, I would prefer to leave these components alone if the engine can be swapped by itself.
I have several general questions regarding this straight engine swap.
1. Can I remove this engine by simply unbolting the engine from the flywheel through and inspection plates in the Bell housing, and removing the front engine mount bolts?
2. Is there anything tricky about disconnecting any of the control systems, tilt and trim hydraulics, or electronics that I should be aware of?
3. Are there any tips in getting the engine back in? Any tips on getting the splines to mate… Do I have a helper wiggle the propeller; do I jiggle the whole engine, or is there some other trick or tip?
4. I am hoping only the block is cracked, and that the intake/exhaust manifold is on damaged. Are there differences between installing the unified intake/exhaust manifold on a marine engine versus the separate units on an automobile engine?
5. The Michigan motors long block comes with the distributor already installed. Do I need to remove the distributor and use the distributor drive gears to pressurize the oil system prior to start up, or is there some other way to do this on this engine/
This is a great forum, with knowledgeable contributors. Any advice you can give me about this straight up engine swap would be greatly appreciated.