Joe two questions on 40hp Johnson b88

" I have a problem with a &#39

" I have a problem with a '88 40 hp Johnson. Recently purchased a whaler w/ the engine. Previous owner hadn't used it since last summer, never had the alarm go off in the two years he owned it and never had the seperate oil tank set-up even though this a VRO unit. I did notice the nozzle off the engine next to the gas hookup. There is no oil hooked up to the VRO intake nozzle on the motor. Instead it is sealed off and I am running it with 50:1 oil/gas mix instead. I believe this is acceptable according to the service manual.

However, the alarm starts after 2-3 minutes of running. However it does not go off when engine is hooked up to hose on land and at idle. Water is flowing out, and it is cool in both cases. I have read some of you previous posts and I will check the sensor 2 wire/ 3 wire possible grounding.

Any ideas? Could the sensor be shot?

Thanks "

"Patrick... If the oil section

"Patrick... If the oil section of the VRO is faulty or one simply has no faith in it, it's okay to seal it off and use a 50/1 mixture as you are doing. You might want to see if that VRO has the latest type warning circuitry... look at the wiring harness leading from the back of the VRO, the latest warning system would have four (4) wires. The old type had three (3) wires.

A grounded sensor wire, if grounded, would stay grounded. It wouldn't be a make and break thing.

On a flushette, with the water turned on full force (as it should be) you are forcing water into the pump area. When actually in the water, the w/pump must draw the water up into the pump area.... there is a difference. You may have encountered a water pump that is failing but has not failed to a point whereas it will show up on a flushette/hose runout.

Do this.... On a flushette with the water on full force, race the engine but not excessively fast. Bring the rpms up to about 1500/1700 or so to see if the warning horn sounds off. If it does, suspect a failing w/pump and/or a stuck thermostat.

Thermostats will stick at times, and I've encountered that many times using a flushette, knowing that the w/pump is indeed good. Sometimes a stuck thermostat can be freed by simply snapping the throttle roller at the carburetor to full throttle and instantly letting it go (we refer to that as flipping the butterfly or jazzing the engine). Be sure to keep your hands clear of the spinning flywheel. When water flows through the thermostat, the water exits at those holes or slots just above and to the rear of the cavitation plate (the plate just above the prop). With this info, you should be able to make a decision as to what the problem is.... however, I would suggest that you install a new water pump kit on the engine on general purposes.

Joe "

" Joe,

Thanks for the ideas

" Joe,

Thanks for the ideas. It has the old 3 wire and seems like the previous owner had disconected it. I ran the flushette idled at 1,600 as suggested and jazzed the engine. The water out the bottom was warm, the water out the top was cool. No alarm. Put boat in the water ran the motor at 1500-2000rpm constant alarm went off within 60-90 seconds under load. I think I'll do the water pump kit as you suggested.

Is it a big job pulling off the gearcase etc.? Not crazy about disassembling the prop/shaft etc. Hopefully this isn't nesesary. Would be comfortable if it is the 4 bolts and a gasket etc. "

"Patrick.... Have the engine s

"Patrick.... Have the engine shift in neutral. Notice the shift lever assy near the starboard (right) side of the lower carburetor. Look at the rod that goes under the carb. Near the inside edge of the bracket that houses that rod, you will see a snap ring of sorts. That snap ring must be removed and the rod slid slightly to the outside in order to release the shift rod that extends from the lower unit up to that point. It's not that complex.... just stare at it for awhile and it will make sense.

NOTE the shift rod. Make a note of the position of the top of that rod after you drop the lower unit pertaining to which way it faces. Also, do not turn it up or down haphazardly as the length of the rod is critical to a point of one (1) turn. What you may do is to carefully count the number of turns it takes to seat the rod and make a note of it if you want to, then return the rod to its normal length. This will enable you to have the rod at its proper length with ease of mind.

When you reasemble the lower unit, have the lower unit shift rod pushed down into reverse (turn the prop if needed to have it go into gear), and have the shifting control at the control box shifted into forward. This is to eliminate any conflict of the rod hitting any mechanism while you're juggling the unit to install it. Also, having the unit in gear will allow you to turn the prop slightly upon installation to line up the D/shaft to C/shaft splines.

After it's installed, you can then move the c/box lever back in order to line up the shift rod hole with the shift pin under that bottom carb.

Bolts.... Two 3/4" bolts on each side (4), plus a 5/8" bolt just forward of the trim tab, plus the trim tab bolt itself. Mark (scribe) a line on that trim tab, extending to the lower unit so that you'll be able to re-install it to its exact position. Various engines have a 9/16" bolt under the trim tab but I believe your engine does not incorporate or need this feature. Note... all references to bolt sizes pertain to the hex head, not the shank.

Sealers.... Use a good gasket sealer on any gasket, the type that is available at any automotive type store, the type that has a small brush attached to the screw on lid. On "O" Rings or spaghetti tubing, use either OMC Adhesive or Marpox #1000. NOTE that Marpox #1000 can also be purchased at any automotive type store and is the smae substance as OMC Adhesive, just cheaper. Also note that Marpox manufactured other sealers with various numbers... use only the #1000. Hope this helps you through your problem.

Use this Marpox #1000 on the lower unit surfaces where it will make contact with the exhaust housing (the long housing between the powerhear and the lower unit). There is obviously no gasket there and this sealer will help make a water tight seal when you bolt the unit up.

Joe"