Flywheel removal from a 73 Evinrude 9 12 sportwin

My evinrude 9 1/2 has what lo

My evinrude 9 1/2 has what looks like some type of stainless steel collar on top of the flywheel around the crank shaft nut. because of the collar I don't have enough Clearance for a wrench or a socket to fit over the nut. The collar has two holes on the top of it wich I'm guessing is for a spanner wrench or something.Do I have to take that collar off first? Do I need special tools to remove this fly wheel? can anyone offer any insight.
Thanks

KT.... That collar on a 9.5hp

KT.... That collar on a 9.5hp Evinrude/Johnson is secured by the nut. You are no doubt using a thick walled socket. Purchase or borrow a standard or thin walled socket to loosen/remove the nut. There should be no holes in that collar.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC)

Joe
your right there are no

Joe
your right there are no holes in the collar. there are holes in the fly wheel around the collar I guess I just got confused. I'll try a different socket.
Thanks

Hi...Could you please tell me

Hi...Could you please tell me how to get the lower unit off of a 1968 9.5 Evenrude.? I am truely stuck on this one...! Thanks..

"Tom.... Remove all of the low

"Tom.... Remove all of the lower unit retaining bolts. Put the shift lever in reverse. Force the lower unit down just enough to see the brass shift connector. Remove one of the 3/8" shift connector retaining bolts. The lower unit should be able to be removed at that point.

If not, in all probability, the driveshaft splines would be rusted somewhat into the crankshaft splines.... lets hope not as that creates a real problem.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC)"

" Hey Joe....Thanks...On the s

" Hey Joe....Thanks...On the same engine I also have a problem with it "sneezing" or backfiring...The carb has been off and completely gone thru and cleaned,and float set...low speed mixture screw is 1 and 1/2 turns out...any idea what the problem is..? Incedently. squeezing the bulb dosen't help... "

" Tommy..... It would be bette

" Tommy..... It would be better if you backed up to the previous "topic" page, then scroll to the bottom of the page. There you will find a large button which will allow you to enter your post under your own topic which will be put at thw top of the page, rather than be buried under someone elses post.

If the carb is indeed clean.... passageways and the brass fixed high speed jet are easily overlooked, I would assume that the carb s/speed isn't adjusted properly. See below.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Joe(30+ Years With OMC) "