Follow up see Johnson 150GT VRO Help please below

"Thanks Joe and Morten for the

"Thanks Joe and Morten for the input. Just to let you know what I found, maybe it will be handy to someone else. After removing the engine cover and pumping the bulb, I noticed gas squirting from a part connected to the fuel line and dripping on the starter solenoid (not good). It was connected to the fuel line between the filter and the VRO pump. The putty around the two wires coming from the bottom of the part was allowing gas to leak out. A mechanic at the local marine shop said it was a vacuum switch. Besides be a hazzard, I think it was allowing air into the system affecting top end power. Anyway he suggested disonnecting the switch and plugging the line which I did. I also replaced the plugs because I wasn't sure when it had been done. I don't know which did the trick, but I went back to the lake and it ran fine. OK so new question. The mechanic also strongly suggested that I remove the VRO system on a motor "that old" (1990) and mix my fuel before it goes out and costs me a new engine. I'd like opinions please from anyone who has done this."

"(VRO Changeover Judgement

"(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)
(J. Reeves)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.

Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.

The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.

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(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

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The purpose of the vaccum switch you disconnected is to warn you with a steady constant beeping of the warning horn should the engine encounter a fuel restriction."

"Lee, I had the exact thing ha

"Lee, I had the exact thing happen, the leaking at the vacuum switch and the fuel restriction alarm going off, to me last year. My motor is a 1990 150 hp and I eliminated the VRO for my "ease", per Joe's description. Even though the vacuum switch is an expensive item for it's size I did replace it with new. I figured if I was going to go to the trouble of mixing the oil and gas to insure that was always right why not do everything possible to insure it was getting to the motor. John"