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Help replacing 280 Ujoint bellows

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mshoop62262

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"Hi All-
I was thrilled to fi

"Hi All-
I was thrilled to find (per this website and gracious contributors) that I didn't have to remove the complete outdrive in order to replace my perforated leaky U-joint bellows. Just pull the upper gear-box; no need to wrastle the entire drive.
Felt pretty good removing the upper gear-box; even made my own tools to remove the steering helmet insert.
My problem, regardless of method, is that the dang U-joint doesn't 'slide' out after unhinging the upper gear-box from the lower end. No amount of tugging, tapping, etc. will make it budge. I've poured over my Seloc manual and done endless Googling- seems like it should slide out of the engine bell-housing end.

If I'm missing something, or if there are any other suggestions, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!"
 
"The yoke is probably rusted t

"The yoke is probably rusted to the shaft. try soaking it in penetrating oil then go at it with a slide hammer while somebody keeps tension on the upper I had to heat the yoke a little in my case.

good luck, will"
 
"First, get the old bellows ou

"First, get the old bellows out of the way, cut it and it's spring off. Now you can soak it much easier with good PBblaster. Once soaked for awhile, try using a drift and move it FORWARD to break the rust free, then give it a tug or tap backwards. If this doesn't get it, heat will."
 
I used penetrating oil and wre

I used penetrating oil and wrestled for days to no avail. I know I was close when I was able to stick a large cresant wrench completely thru the U-joint. I succeeded when I attached one of the sliding hammer pullers from the auto store to my wrench (free 90 day use...just put up a refundable $80 deposit when you return the tool). I put the rod thru the hole in the handle and screwed one of the attachments behind it. It took about 20 times before I started to see progress. 10 more slides and it came off!
 
"be sure you get the gimble sh

"be sure you get the gimble shot before you go back together, this will check the alignment of the motor mounts and the gimble bearing, that could have been what was holding you up also. if its good, check your cupler and splines on the inputshaft, see if there packed with crud or if there bent slightly. the importent thing is to keep the motor in line with the gimble, it can sag as soon as you pull the shaft out."
 
"In AQ Volvos, the primary sha

"In AQ Volvos, the primary shaft is aways aligned with the motor as long as the bellhousing is not loose. The situation roscoelab describes applies to Mercruisers, not to AQ Volvo Pentas."
 
"Thanks to everyone for the re

"Thanks to everyone for the responses. I'm still struggling unfortunately. Soaked the heck out of the yoke with penetrating oil, worked it with a drift and hammer (left a couple of divits I wish I hadn't) and it still won't budge. Is it possible to pull the needle bearings out of the u-joint so I can remove the upper gear unit? I would sure like to get in there with a slide-hammer and some heat on just the stuck yoke? It just seems impossible to get anywhere with the upper gear unit flopping around. Thanks again."
 
"You may need to get in there

"You may need to get in there and cut the center interm piece away from the two outside pieces. I've had to do this, but rarely. You can get in there with a rosebud torch and heat the foward fork up and it could possibly move then. You would hurt the rear seal in the bellhousing but that's cheap if the splined fork comes loose. What ever you do don't hurt the two forks, they're getting kind of spendy to replace, but I do have them if need be. The center piece is more available, I have lot's of them. Keep trying, you're on the right track and a shop wouldn't do anything different than what you're doing."
 
"Thanks Boat Doc. I actually

"Thanks Boat Doc. I actually did consider cutting the center piece, but elected to pull the u-joint bearings instead. It actually went better than I expected, and with a bonus: the bearings were completely shot. Had I been able to pull the yoke easily in the first place, I might have assumed they were ok. Now I'm down to a clean yoke stuck on the splined drive and will order new crosses and bearings. So I'm wondering... should I leave the stuck yoke alone and just rebuild the u-joint around it? I know its not a very elegant solution, but I believe that I could do it. Any draw-backs to this? Thanks!"
 
"Success! Thanks all for the

"Success! Thanks all for the assistance, for anyone interested; upon following the advice of this posting thread here's what I did:

Removed the clips from the center U-joint bearings, tapped them out with a drift(they were completely shot anyway).

Once I was able to remove the upper gear box I then removed the bearings and cross-peice so that I just had the stuck yoke on the splined shaft.

Rented a 10-pound slide hammer from my friendly Murray's auto store and tried pulling. No luck.

I did notice that what I thought was a solid single piece yoke actually had a cap in the center (I know, just sensed a big duh for those of you that are familiar with this u-joint anatomy).

Once I could actually see the splines (after removing the duh cap), I heated is up - just a bit - with my $9.00 propane torch and went at again with the slide hammer. It moved ever so slightly. Per Boat Doc, I then moved it FORWARD toward the bow using a hefty deep socket that just fit the diameter. Moved it about an eighth-inch, then I soaked it again with penetrating oil and had lunch.

The slide hammer then pulled it clean with 2-3 hits.

Now I'm just waiting for the new u-joint cross pieces (these have zerks) and bearings.

Thanks again, and good luck to anyone finding themselves in my predicament."
 
Well I was able to remove my b

Well I was able to remove my bellows and bearings by taking off the upper transmission on my AQ131/275. I am trying to put it back togeather and it is not going well. It looks like the u-joint needs to go fwd another inch. Any ideas?
 
"Did the u-joint front yoke ac

"Did the u-joint front yoke actually slide into the primary shaft spline, or did it miss the shaft?"
 
"Then, it should slide forward

"Then, it should slide forward without a problem by just pushing the upper gear assembly; of course, provided the splines are clean, greased and not worned out or with dents."
 
Another possibility is that yo

Another possibility is that you put too much grease inside the yoke and as you know grease cannot be compressed. Or there is an air pocket trapped between the yoke and the primary shaft.
 
I put the old yoke on and it s

I put the old yoke on and it seems the drive shaft is hitting the end cap on the yoke. I pushed the old one on a inch further without the end cap. That is not right. All of the snap rings were in the proper place on the drive shaft and bell housing. I am at a loss
 
"Brian, a couple of thoughts t

"Brian, a couple of thoughts that come to my mind are that either you have installed incorrectly the primary shaft in the bellhousing, or you forgot to install the inner gasket between the bellhousing and the transom shield (part 37 inboard).

http://www.volvopentastore.com/CONNECTING_COMPONENTS_AQ_DRIVE_UNIT_275/dm/store_ id.366--session_id.067689631--cart_id.443433535--category_id.332884--list_time.1 193504766--view_id.324026

But in the latter case, the engine mounts (if installed) would have shifted towards the stern."
 
"I find it hard to believe the

"I find it hard to believe the drive shaft is installed wrong because all of the snap rings are in the proper place. If it was installed wrong wouldn't the rings be out of place? Is there a trick to installing the upper gear housing. I have removed # 31 and lowered outdrive to lowest position. # 72 is supposed to hold the bearing in and the other one is on the inboard side of #74 sealing ring, correct?"
 
"I have marked in the picture

"I have marked in the picture two distances measured from the tip of the primary shaft. What do you get in yours?

115781.jpg



Also, make sure you have installed the shaft with the bearing and circlips in the order indicated on the following picture: 1) Lip seal; 2) Ball bearing; 3) Large circlip; 4) Small circlip (to retain bearing in place); 5) Large circlip; 6) Lip seal.

115782.jpg
"
 
"el_pescador thanks, a picture

"el_pescador thanks, a picture is worth a thosand words. Guess I have to pull my engine and put a new bellhousing on. Have you seen the two piece bellhousing for the volvo aq131, do you know of a source for them?
115794.jpg
bellhousing
 
"Why do you think you need the

"Why do you think you need the 2-piece bellhousing? As far as I know, either of them should do the job."
 
Just wanted to make it easier

Just wanted to make it easier if I have problem again. I was told the two piece is only for V8 engines and not the four bangers
 
"I think you are correct. All

"I think you are correct. All the two-piece bellhousings I have seen were installed on V-8 engines (but again, I haven't seen <u>everything</u>
biggrin.gif
). I have one of those 2-piece bellhousings for a V-8 Ford, but my point was that the distance the bellhousing protrudes outboard from the transom shield is the same in all arrangements. This is why I don't understand how a new bellhousing could possibly solve your problem."
 
"El Pescador, pulled my engine

"El Pescador, pulled my engine today. I would like to replace the rubber bumper for the motor. Is there a special way to get it out? Brian"
 
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