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Water in Alpha 1 stern drive lube oil need help on fix

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pktaske

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"Found milky oil a few weeks a

"Found milky oil a few weeks ago and changed it out. After 3 trips, I checked again and its back so I want to do the fix. In my Clymer manual, it doesn't speak to specifically what needs to be changed out but I'm imagining at least the prop seal and the water pump seals. What else? Tried to search on this but too much other stuff kept popping up. Thanks..."
 
"I believe most mechanics will

"I believe most mechanics will suggest that the drive be pressure tested to show where the leaky seals are. The shift shaft seal and the main seal by the universals are also common spots for leaks. Could be as simple as a bad o-ring on the drain plug or as bad as a cut in the bellows letting water into the drive and destroying the main front seal. Thats what happened to me! Check out this sight.
http://www.mercstuff.com/index.htm
Chris"
 
I had hoped to get lucky and I

I had hoped to get lucky and I changed the washers on the drain plugs but to no avail. Thanks for the site...looking now.
 
"remove drive and pressure tes

"remove drive and pressure test to find leak.(drain first) lower has seals on propshaft, shift shaft, and driveshaft. (in water pump base on alpha, below on gen 2) upper has seals at u-joint assy, drive shaft. pretty much all require special tools to replace. if you don't own them already, they'd cost more than the repair."
 
"Could just be a shift shaft s

"Could just be a shift shaft seal, which is easy to change. That happened on my Gen II. But you need to have it pressure tested to find out for sure.
Pre-Gen II drives did not have the drive oil reservoir mounted on the engine, so there is no good way to monitor lube oil level. The reservoir works to keep positive pressure on the lube oil, since it is higher than the water level outside the boat. This means when you get a leak the oil leaks out and is replaced by oil from the reservoir; not water.
Suggest you retrofit a lube oil reservoir when you get the problem fixed. They can be added to any pre-Gen II drive not so equipped.
Rod"
 
"Rod:

"retrofit a lube

"Rod:

"retrofit a lube oil reservoir" How reliable is this retrofit? I have considered installing one but when I looked at the product on eBay, it showed a small hose protruding thru the gimbal to the vent screw. I was concerned about it coming loose. Your comments please."
 
"Guy;
I retrofitted one on my

"Guy;
I retrofitted one on my old 898 a few years back and it worked well. As I recall I drilled a small hole thru the transom for the tubing and fitted it up to the vent screw opening. I used small SS clamps to secure it to the drive cap and the transom, and had no trouble with it at all.
When you are underway planing the drive is usually completely out of the water from the ventilation plate up, so there is no real stress on the small hose at all.
For what it's worth, I wouldn't run an outdrive boat without a lube oil monitor; if for no other reason than it keeps positive pressure on the lube oil. Just my thoughts.
Rod"
 
Rod:

Thanks for the info.

Rod:

Thanks for the info. I guess that will be one of my projects this winter.
 
"I have milky oil also, replac

"I have milky oil also, replacing the water pump, base plate, shift shaft seal. The only difference with my issue is that the oil is leaking out the weep hole on the front starboard side of the bullet on the lower unit. Hoping that it is not the seals in the upper unit, where the shaft splines enter the upper unit. If those seals are bad, I am sol. any suggestions on any other possible places that the oil could be coming from?"
 
"Gary;
If that's an Alpha

"Gary;
If that's an Alpha One, it should have an O ring groove on the top of the vertical drive shaft, right below the splines.
If so, that O ring should maintain a seal in the upper gear housing just fine, so long as you get it back together without damage to the O ring.
How is the seal below the water pump?

Most likely shift shaft seal leaking, as scott says.

Rod"
 
"I HAVE GEAR OIL COMIMG FROM S

"I HAVE GEAR OIL COMIMG FROM SHIFT SHAFT,HOW DO YOU REPLACE THE SHIFT SHAFT SEAL ? DO YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE LOWER HOUSING OFF?"
 
"raul;
Yes on dropping the lo

"raul;
Yes on dropping the lower housing.

Suggest you start your own topic so all can see and possibly offer advice.

It's not hard to do the seal change, but you should download the appropriate part of the Seloc online manual, or purchase a manual. It will make things a whole lot easier.

It is generally recommended to remove the whole drive leg, as that is easier than trying to wrestle the lower half back on with the upper still in place. Also this gives you a good chance to inspect the U joints, gimbal, coupler, splines, and bellows at the same time.

While you have it apart you should also change the water pump impeller.

Rod"
 
"Rod, thank you for saying tha

"Rod, thank you for saying that. (take off whole drive) I was getting tired of repeating it. almost no one does though, and then I have to go on on of my rants."
 
"I have no problem taking the

"I have no problem taking the whole drive unit off. Myinitl concern was putting it back on and it an alignment tool was needed but it seems as long as you dont mess with things, it should go on smoothly. Will update as I'm doing it this weekend My seal/water pump kit came in one day (!) from MarineEngine! Now I just need to find out where all those gaskets and o-rings go!"
 
"Nick;
Hope it goes well. Hin

"Nick;
Hope it goes well. Hint: You won't use all the gaskets.

scott;
I have tried it both ways, and for my money it's easier to take the whole drive off. Glad at least someone else feels the same way.

Rod"
 
"Iterim update: Took drive uni

"Iterim update: Took drive unit off and then separated lower unit. Got the old water pump apart. Found debris here and there, mostly inside the lower housing itself. Pump looked ok/clean for the most part but a new one is going in nonetheless. Some questions:

1) I pulled the water pump base out gingerly (as it's plastic). How do I change the the oil seals on its bottom? I'm afraid to gouge the plastic base. Maybe I don't replace these at all? (for what its worth, they look in very good condition)

2) Can I get the shift shaft bushing out without the special tool? I'm also assuming the shift shaft bushing just screws out and I just slip the new one on without messing around with the shaft itself.

3) The oil seal in the upper housing (where the lower drive shaft inserts when you put the lower and upper back together) looks suspect. Is it possible to change this without messing with the upper gear, u-joint, etc)? I dont want to start pulling the top unit apart.

BTW - seems I will have a lot of left over gaskets!

thanks.."
 
"1. if you're replacing th

"1. if you're replacing the pump anyway, just buy the kit with base. just a few dollars more. comes with seals installed.
2. your assumtion is correct. has o-ring below.
3. unfotunately no. the u-joint assembly must come out. (hard to do without spanner)then the top cover, and upper driven gear can be lifted out. upper driveshaft seals are then accessable. (there are 2)
I believe shift shaft tool is inexpensive. spanner probably not. check with your local dealer, or sierra makes some of them. might be able to get them here."
 
I'll probably bring the up

I'll probably bring the upper unit into the shop for pressur testing and repair if need be. Tools = expensive for what hopefully will be a one time job.
 
"A.M. Update - Seems like they

"A.M. Update - Seems like they want ~$600 US to do a seal job on the outdrive. Sounds like a bit much considering I'm bringing the unit in drained, off the boat, already separated (with the water pump off) along with a lower seal kit I already purchased."
 
"It's the labor and expert

"It's the labor and expertise you are paying for Nick. If your drive is old and well used, check the web for a reman. w/exchange and see about the cost. The mech. will likely find worn bearings, etc. to up the cost so ask about add'l charges. My thoughts; your choice."
 
"He quoted a seal job but I&#3

"He quoted a seal job but I'll give him the benefit of the doubt that it meant reconditioning whatever he found. There's not many hours on this drive, that I can see. Looks pristine (at least whats visible). Drive shaft, u-joint. I think I'll opt for buying the tools and doing it myself.

What's the going labor rate on marine work anyway?"
 
Hmmm I had all the seals in my

Hmmm I had all the seals in my OD done for $450.00 Including a new universal 'stub'.. The leaking bellows trashed the big seal and wore a groove in the stub. Labour up here (Ontario Canada) runs from $60.00 to $85.00 hr.. The mobile marine mechanic I use on occasion charges $60.00 hr. Geez.. $600.00+ is more than half the cost of a complete new OD from S.E.
 
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