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AQ125A Tuneup Parts

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superbeeguy

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"OK. Rebuild nearing completio

"OK. Rebuild nearing completion. Short block spec'ed out sweet and it spins smooth! Thanks Marine Parts Express for the correct rings! After biting the bullet on the cost of the rebuild parts, which could have been worse. I cringe at the cost of the Circ Pump ($200.+) and the other stuff needed. Will the B-21 (auto) cap, rotor, wire stuff work? Also going the Hotspark route, hate points, lost 'em on my Super Bee too! Don't think the Auto water pump will work, has the rad hose nipple. any ideas where to get the circ pump W/O getting mugged again?"
 
"I HAVE A USED ONE, I WOULD PU

"I HAVE A USED ONE, I WOULD PUT A NEW IMPELLER AND SEAL IN IT. THE SEAL DRIPS A SMALL AMOUNT OF WATER, LET ME KNOW IF YOU ARE INTERESTED."
 
"Joel, the automotive pump wil

"Joel, the automotive pump will not work on an AQ125A. And in any case, I believe that neither the automotive nor the marine circulation pumps are serviceable. But of course, that does not mean it is impossible to rebuild them.

I recall using B21 ignition wires in my AQ140, but cap and rotor may not work; especially, if your distributor cap is of the srew-on type."
 
"I'll check the cap mount,

"I'll check the cap mount, I have two distribs, one from the blown up AQ125B and one from the AQ125A that I'm rebuiding. Thought about ripping a new ($35)Auto waterpump apart (I have a press in my garage)and gutting it to rebuild my circ pump, but my original has a mounting lug all but gone from corrosion. AQ125B circ pump I have has a good casting but totally different bolt pattern. won't swap. Darow, Are you talking about a circ pump or a raw water pump. The circs have a metal impeller. if it's a AQ125A circ, I'm interested. I'll try the "gut a new auto pump route" to avoid paying $252 to Marine Parts Express. They're good on most part prices and Volvo parts are sky-high anyway but I'm trying to keep it on the cheap! Uncle's Boat motor!"
 
"While we are spit-ballin abou

"While we are spit-ballin about the AQ125s, Will the heads direct swap from AQ125B to AQ125A? Cam specs the same? I'm asking cus the head I have from the crank-windowed AQ125B is by all appearances, in better shape than the head from the AQ125A. The A head has more corrosion issues to have to tackle. The B head was in good working order when the #4 rod left the rest of the engine. Still gonna go through it anyway! I'm this far, right?"
 
"The camshafts are identical &

"The camshafts are identical (A cam) but I believe the heads are different. Since the AQ125A has a B21 block and the AQ125B a B230, the heads may be interchangeable but I'm not sure what kind of results you will get. You may want to check this thread and do further research at the turbobricks forum.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=84992"
 
"TurboBrick dudes say it.s doa

"TurboBrick dudes say it.s doable with no major issues:
"The head swaps directly over. One of the issues is you don't have the valve cover anymore to mark the cam timing position for the cam gear. I believe Penta used to make a plate so you can use the later head on an early block. Or you can just make one up yourself using the valve cover or the plastic backing plate for a template so you get the mark in the correct posistion. You'll have to figure out how you want to setup the timing belt cover, too. But there aren't any major hurdles to using the later head on an early engine." I'm gonna do a quick CC Volume check of the two combustion chambers just to ensure I don't alter CR in a drastic way. I'm a motor builder (just not usually Volvos) so I'll break my clay out and check valve to piston clearances ect. I'll give this a whack. let ya know how well it works."
 
"The Volvos we are talking abo

"The Volvos we are talking about are non-interference engines, so you won't have a problem with valves hitting pistons regardless of which head you are using. My concern was more recgarding the shape of the combustion chamber when I mentioned that I wasn't sure of the kind of result you would get (i.e. compression ratio, power, etc).

In any case, please keep the forum informed of the results."
 
"OK. I found an issue worth n

"OK. I found an issue worth noting for anyone contemplating this head swap. I looked closely at the heads during lunch. The A head has a visibly smaller combustion chamber than the B head! I measure tonight but I'd guess at about 1-1.5 cc smaller. Also, by looking at the Head gasket sealing ring marks, the A motor uses a smaller diameter sealing ring. I could mill the B head about 4 thou and get the few tenths of compression back that I would otherwise lose in the swap, however, sealing the milled B head against the A Block with the A head gasket may still be a problem. Conversely, if a guy had a QA125B and he wanted an extra 5 or so in HP out of his motor he could slap on the A head w/o any issues (use the B head gasket) AND he'd gain the Cam timing indicator that's built into the A valve cover but not the B! Note: A and B valve covers will not swap. Valves are the same size. Quench would be improved to help control detonation. (although Mid-grade gas would help that too) and the little bump in compression will bump the HP up about 5HP! You're actual milage may vary! Anyway, just gonna clean up the A head now. The B head/A block swap still seems doable but too much work for no real advantage. Now that A head/B block combo shows real promise!"
 
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