70 johnson 1982

well i just got the boat and d

well i just got the boat and don't know the back round i would guess that it has sat for a year or more the engine runs great in gear or on the fast idle out of the water but when in the waterwill run great on fast idle and will sit and idle just find try to put it in gear and it shuts offonly way to get it going is to leave it on fast idle just a little then push it to full throttle after all this it will only go about 7mph what i have done so far is cleaned the carbs new plugs one new plug wire and one new coil pack none of this fixed it the other day i changed the oil in the lower unit old oil was gray and milky looking took the boat out agian and it ran great crused around at 30-35 mph for about ten min's then it slowed back to 7mph on it own and thats all it would do now when i pulled it out of the water there was black oil coming from the prop and from a 1/8" hole just below one of the drain screws don't have a tach but the motor sounds like it running good just not as fast as it sounded at the 30-35mph any help would be great
thanks
Robert

"(Compression & Spark

"(Compression & Spark Test)
(J. Reeves)

1st - Regardless of what problem one might encounter, always start with the basic troubleshooting procedure. Check the compression which should be in the range of 100+ psi (somewhat less on the smaller hp engines) and even on all cylinders.

2nd - With the spark plugs removed, rig up some type of spark tester whereas you can set a gap to be jumped. On magneto ignition systems.... and also the Battery Capacitance Ignition system OMC engines from 1968 to 1972, set the gap to 1/4". On the solid state OMC ignition systems from 1973 to the present, set the gap to 7/16". The spark should jump the gap with a strong blue lightning like flame..... a real strong blue snap!

If there was no spark, on engines from 1973 up, disconnect the RED main electrical plug at the engine. Remove the s/plugs. crank the engine via the starter solenoid (jumper bat term to small 3/8" term nut, not the ground nut) and observe spark. If spark is now okay as stated above, the usual cause is a shorted ignition switch.

If the above checks out as it should, and the engine dies out when throttle is applied or won't idle, it is usually due to one or both of two things. The carburetors are fouled, in which case the cure would be to remove, clean, and rebuild them..... or the timer base under the flywheel is sticking which would result in a retarded spark. If the engine will not fire/start at all even though you have the proper spark and compression, it's usually due to fouled carburetors.

To check the timer base for sticking (Engine Not Running), spin the prop to align the shifter dog with forward gear and while doing so, put the engine into forward gear. Now, while watching the timer base, slowly apply throttle clear up to full throttle. The timer base should move smoothly all the way up against the black rubber cap that is atached to the end of the full advance spark setting screw. If the timer base sticks, find out why and correct that problem.

Usually any sticking of the timer base is caused by one of the four retaining clamps being slightly too tight. Putting a very thin washer under the clamp cures that problem. Some boaters use a thin screwdriver to bend the clamp upwards slightly but I prefer the thin washer. The sticking can also be caused by having a faulty stator start to melt down, resulting in a sticky substance dripping down on the timer base nylon retaining ring.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"

thanks for the great info any

thanks for the great info any idea why the oil is comming from the prop and that 1/8" hole below the drain hole