" Looks like the ECU(EMM&#
" Looks like the ECU(EMM) is fried. Turn the ignition key to on, and only the system check lights come on and indicates nothing is wrong. The fuel and oil pumps are not activated. Turn the key to start and nothing, except the 20 amp starter assist fuse blows. Everything else checks out fine. Looking through the book, I found the rectifier / stator for the 40 volt starter assist circuit is housed within the ECU(EMM). It is something I cannot test without pulling the ECU(EMM). Bad idea, I know. So, I had someone come out and hook up a plam pilot and run a diagnostic. Well the computer would not communicate with the software and the service rep confirmed that the ECU(EMM) is fried and fells hot where the rectifier is located. Which makes sense, since it is drawing more current than normal blowing the 20 amp fuse.
If this is the right diagnosis, what am I looking at in terms of sevice costs, replacement, etc. I did find out that the ECU(EMM) cannot be replaced. It must sent in and refurbished. I also heard that the injection ports are not interchangeable and must be sent it as well and tuned with the refurbished ECU(EMM).
Is this accurate? What am I looking at for repair and who does the work. Is it Deity or something like that? Also, is this a know problem and happens often? Is this covered by warranty?
Thanks "
" Looks like the ECU(EMM) is fried. Turn the ignition key to on, and only the system check lights come on and indicates nothing is wrong. The fuel and oil pumps are not activated. Turn the key to start and nothing, except the 20 amp starter assist fuse blows. Everything else checks out fine. Looking through the book, I found the rectifier / stator for the 40 volt starter assist circuit is housed within the ECU(EMM). It is something I cannot test without pulling the ECU(EMM). Bad idea, I know. So, I had someone come out and hook up a plam pilot and run a diagnostic. Well the computer would not communicate with the software and the service rep confirmed that the ECU(EMM) is fried and fells hot where the rectifier is located. Which makes sense, since it is drawing more current than normal blowing the 20 amp fuse.
If this is the right diagnosis, what am I looking at in terms of sevice costs, replacement, etc. I did find out that the ECU(EMM) cannot be replaced. It must sent in and refurbished. I also heard that the injection ports are not interchangeable and must be sent it as well and tuned with the refurbished ECU(EMM).
Is this accurate? What am I looking at for repair and who does the work. Is it Deity or something like that? Also, is this a know problem and happens often? Is this covered by warranty?
Thanks "