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1969 55 johnson no spark

jrocply841

New member
"Hi - i'm new to this foru

"Hi - i'm new to this forum and new to working on outboards because I have never had any real problems.

My 55 ran fine in the driveway. In the water, I warmed it up and after 300 yards, it missed a few times then shut down. It started again and died after 100'. No spark.

I have some mechanical aptitude, but no experience on this type of ignition system.

I would appreciate any help diagnosing this problem. Please describe components well as I am new to this.

Thanks"
 
How did you test for spark? D

How did you test for spark? Did you remove the sparkplug? What was the condition of the plugs? Lets go through the common overseen parts that foul first. Then we'll look at the coils! Are the coils that the plug wires go into cracked? Is water/moisture getting onto these plugs/coils? I would spray everything down under the engine cover with WD40 and then retry it also.
 
"On that model, with the "

"On that model, with the "spark plugs removed" the spark should jump a 1/4" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP. This is the onoly way to check the spark. Checking spark by using the spark plugs is a waste of time and results in false readings. If you don't have test equipment, here's a easy unit you can build.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a couple nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

The following is a method to check the amplifier (pulsepack/powerpack) along with a few helpful hints.

I'd recommend, as does OMC, that you use Champion L77JC4 or QL77JC4 spark plugs in that engine, gapped at .030 .

(Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge
( Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
(Joe Reeves)

The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.

Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.

You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.

Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!

The flywheel nut must be torqued to 105 foot pounds.

(Voltage Drop To Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Pulsepack When Electric Starter Is Engaged)
(J. Reeves)

On the older Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition systems (1968-1972), the electric starter reaches a point, even with a top notch battery, whereas the starter will draw excess voltage/current/whatever which results in a voltage drop to the pulsepack. The cure is to purchase a diode which is capable of handling 12 volts and installing it between the starter terminal of the starter solenoid (NOT the battery cable terminal) and the wiring terminal that supplies voltage to the pulsepack.

The diode must be installed so that the current flows from the starter terminal of the solenoid to the pulsepack... NOT vice versa. When that diode is installed in this manner, when the key is turned to the start position, the voltage that is applied to the starter is also applied directly to the pulsepack via the diode effectively eliminating the voltage drop and energizing the pulsepack with the required voltage needed for its proper operation.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
********************
(Battery Capacitance Dischage Powerpack Test)
Various OMC Engines - 1968 to 1972)
(J. Reeves)

Purchase a small 12v bulb at your local automotive parts store (the 12v bulb is to look like a flashlight bulb, not a headlight bulb). Solder two wires to that bulb, one to the side of the bulb (ground), and the other to the positive point. You might use a bulb of a somewhat lower voltage to obtain a brighter glow... just a suggestion.

Remove the spark plugs. With the key in the on position, make sure that you have 12v going to the pack at the terminal block (purple wire). Now, connect the ground wire from the bulb to any powerhead ground. Connect the wire from the positive point of that bulb to the powerpack wire that is connected to the coil wire on the terminal board (blue wire).

Crank the engine and observe that bulb closely (CLOSELY!). If that bulb glows even the slightest bit, the powerpack is okay. It may be a very dim glow... just so it glows! If it doesn't glow, the pack has failed.

Keep in mind, that type powerpack (Battery Capacitance Discharge) demands a top notch battery of at least 70 amp hours. Any less will, in time, cause powerpack failure.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

Let us know what you find"
 
I tested the power pack.

Th


I tested the power pack.

The module has 3 wires going into it (one has power at key on) and 1 wire coming out that goes to a coil looking thing.

I used my test light on the single wire going to the coil - no light. Power pack is pooched?? - Damn they're expensive!
 
The normal shop test light doe

The normal shop test light doesn't do it! Use a small 12 bulb or better yet a lower voltage bulb.
 
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