Logo
FULL SITE MENU

70hp mairner bogs out

N

number_1_colts_fan

New member
The problem started out as no

The problem started out as no spark. Replaced Stator and rectifier. Motor runs after some adjustments but bogs out in forward as speed increased on land with water mufs. resorted to manual and attempted timing and adjustments and it runs better but not good. the higher the rpm's the motor bogs out misses and poor preformance. Any ideas?
 
Sounds like high speed jets in

Sounds like high speed jets in carb plugged. Has this motor sat for a while by any chance?
 
No not really maybe 14 days wa

No not really maybe 14 days waiting on parts. where are the high speed jets on the carb? I was begining to get concerned that the stator or rectifier could still be a problem
 
"timing plate is stuck, throwi

"timing plate is stuck, throwing off the timing. just a guess. check compression too."
 
"I get it sounding good in slo

"I get it sounding good in slow speed and idle,and not when i push the throttle, then get it good when in fast speed but not idle and slow speed by adjusting one screw. Any ideas?"
 
"Steven, the switch box is tes

"Steven, the switch box is tested with the motor running (at two different speed ranges) - I do have tables with the numbers you are looking for, but they are dependant on the part number of your stator.

A serial number for your motor would allow me to look them up if you are interested. However, from what you describe above, it doesn't sound like a switch box issue..."
 
"Can you get it running at slo

"Can you get it running at slow speed then do the following, put a timing light on each plug wire and check for spark, put timing light on engine and check low speed timing, pull plug wires 1 at a time and see how engine responds. Check that the timing base rotates with the engine control. Look thru carbs while running to verify fuel is flowing out main jet. I don't understand which screw you turned in above post to get it running better. All the above post lead to a lean running engine also."
 
Ok I'll try that. The scr

Ok I'll try that. The screws are on the side of the motor stop idle and such. One thing that seems strange is that since i replaced the stator the timing mark on the fly wheel lands about 6inches before the timing pointer on the motor and i tried to aline this various ways top dead center and such. Correct me if i am wrong but to time the motor you bring #1 to tdc then place the flywheel so the mark is about 1/4 inch past the pointer? that is what i did and when the motor runs the timing mark is way off??
 
"Steven, just asking (beca

"Steven, just asking (because this does sound like a timing issue) - you didn't by chance put the flywheel back on slightly "off" - ie. missed the key (or it slipped out on you un-noticed) and torqued it down?

That would account for your timing being "out to lunch" after re-assembly - because it shouldn't have gone haywire on you just from a stator replacement....

And to answer a previous post - the switch box pretty much just "transfers" voltages between the various ignition components - so the tests all look for "voltages". And alot of times a switch box problem is diagnosed by process of elimination (ie. your stator is putting out power, your coils are good but aren't getting charged = bad switch box)..."
 
"Somehting is wrong, you can t

"Somehting is wrong, you can time this with the motor not running and just cranking. Timing light on #1, spin engine, pointer should be at 3-5 degrees I think. Do not mess with the screws on the side if something is way off. You didn't swap any wires on the switchbox or trigger right. No need to mess with carbs if the timing wrong."
 
Your numbers are good JB - I&#

Your numbers are good JB - I'm reading (at cranking speed) 4 degrees and then 28 degrees max advance (which should give 24 at 5000 rpm)...
 
I initially examined the stato

I initially examined the stator instalation and flywheel. Their is not notch for a key on the shaft or disck that receives the bolts from the flywheel. also i would think that the stator has to have a particular way it goes on? but again there is not notches or groves. Any guidance in this regard would be so greatful because i do think it has to do with that.
 
"There is a notch and key asse

"There is a notch and key assembly on the flywheel and crankshaft. If you simply un-bolted the flywheel from the base then that was done incorrectly. Find TDC on #1 cly, remove the flywheel and clock it so the pointer and markings indicate TDC. This must be done to align the magnets under the flywheel up with the timing marks."
 
"Graham, good catch on the fly

"Graham, good catch on the flywheel being off. I think we might be on to something now."
 
"awww, you couln't have me

"awww, you couln't have messed that up too.
The holes in the stator for mounting should only go on one way. Now go clock that flywheel and let us know what happens. So did you un-bolt the flywheel or did you remove it with a flywheel puller?"
 
"we just unbolted the flywheel

"we just unbolted the flywheel, now that we did that with the stator we have no spark any suggestions on what that could be, the stator couldent be bad again could it?"
 
"is the flywheel back on in th

"is the flywheel back on in the right position, did the timing marks line up when it was on TDC?"
 
"yes they did but we cant rest

"yes they did but we cant restart it. the starter kicks off on its own after i turn the key is the starter bad or going bad or the stater already bad, i sure hope not."
 
"try pulling the sparkplugs ou

"try pulling the sparkplugs out to make it easier on the starter. I don't have any reason why you don't have spark. The stator should only go on one way. There should be a black/yellow wire on the switch box, that goes to the key switch, disconect that and the engine will be hot ignition all the time."
 
"JB- I did pull all the plugs

"JB- I did pull all the plugs and checked for spark on each plug, no success. I crank over the engine without the plugs and no spark. As far as the stator goes, it goes on one way but it has multiple holes to put the hex head screws in so the stator can go on various locations aroung the terminal because you can bolt it down where ever. the stator does have two magnetic poles that look different than the rest which i assume are located in the vacinity of the timing pointer also because i matched up the old one and the wires are located where i would believe they reach. When I replaced the Stator initially it was because I could not see any spark and the motor quit running. I replaced the stator and rectifier and then it ran but with the bogging problem when you give it the gas. I have a multi meater and try to check everything according to the specs but i get strange readings and the new stator has different readings than the old one. I wonder if switch box has a role in this?"
 
"remove the black/yellow wire

"remove the black/yellow wire going from switch box to key, this will rule out the wiring and key from control box. The stator and flywheel must be put back together in the same place. Ign test vidio.
http://www.themarinedoctor.com/cgi-bin//YaBB.pl?num=1175227246
Since you had some spark before you relocated the flywheel, I'm thinking either the flywheel is incorrect or the stator is mounted wrong."
 
I have done all of the above.

I have done all of the above. I reinstalled the stator and flywheel what i believe properly. I removed the wire going to the key and ruled that out. the problem is that i do not get any dc or ac voltage out of any of the leads from the triger. on every post on the switch box i can not get any reading. I put the positive end of the meter on the battery and the negative on every pole on the switch box and they read as if they are all a ground. Could the switch box be the problem? The ohm readings see correct on the triger leads and I cannot seem to get anywhere near the reading of 4500 + out of the stator? I even went and bought a new vom to make sure it was not the problem.
 
"I preformed the following tes

"I preformed the following tests yesterday and this is what i found:

Stator Test:
could not detect any voltage ac or dc

blue to ground = 2.10 on 20k ohm setting
red to ground = 0.04 on 20k ohm setting
blue to blue white =2.09
red to red white =0.04


triger test =
could not detect any voltage ac or dc

white/blk to white, violet, brown = 1.26 @20k ohm setting.

Rectifier test;
after preforming test i concluded that this is bad also.

Any idea why the new stator and rectifier would go bad?"
 
"Steaven, I suggest you take t

"Steaven, I suggest you take this problem to a certified shop. Stop throwing parts at it. Your testing methods apprear to be off. Putting the positive on the battery and testing with the negative would give incorrect readings if you got any readings at all they would be all negative."
 
Thanks for the suggestion. If

Thanks for the suggestion. If you could advise if you know what test and readings could be preformed on the switchbox to determine if it is good or bad that would be outstanding?
 
"Steven, the readings for swit

"Steven, the readings for switch box tests are particular to your stator.

If you post the part number of your stator, I can give you the specific points to test and the readings you would be looking for...."
 
the cdi stator number is 174-5

the cdi stator number is 174-5454k1. i did the test on the stator leads like the troubleshooting guide instructed for example the guid said to read between the blue and the blue/white should read 2250 ohms but i read 2.07 on the 20k meter setting and the guide says to read red to red/white should read 30 and i read 54.5 on the 200 omhm setting?/
 
Back
Top