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  1. #1

    Default "Hello All: Have a Cobra outdr

    "Hello All: Have a Cobra outdrive with a stiff shift action. I suspect I have to replace the transom shift cable. Any advice / pointers on this process are appreciated.

    1. I have a '88 RGD model, 3.0L. The existing cable is red and OMC 986654. I believe this means it probably was initially serviced when the original drive failure issues arose in the late 80's/ early 90's... correct? Does the replacement OMC 987661 address shifting issues as well?

    2. I don't have any drive clutch damage. Yet. The boat runs good and it will shift, it's just that it's stiff when doing so.

    3. I haven't yet disconnected the linkage at the engine to verify that the issue isn't the control box. I will, but I am pretty well mechanically inclined and expect that the transom cable is probably the issue... it probably hasn't been replaced in quite some time and from what I have read these cables are something that goes every 4-5 years. I have had the boat a year. It only has 250 hours on it. Pretty good for an 88.

    4. My ESA seems to work well, the engine will stumble when I depress the switch with my finger.

    5. My key question surrounds replacing the cable itself. Pulling the drive is not a concern. What I see is that the red transom cable is enclosed in a black shroud that runs down through the transom. I am thinking when you remove the cable, does this shround stay in place and you just feed / thread the new cable through this and down to the outdrive? If so it would seem this is easier than attempting to remove the entire shround. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. The boat is set up with swimdeck over the motor,that opens like the hood of a car.
    So access is from the top, and getting down to where that cable enters the transom looks rough.
    No side access.

    6. Is it good practice to replace the cable bellows at the same time? It seems in good shape, but is this something that gets destroyed as part of disassembly? Is this particularly difficult? Is the bellows a single assembly and part of the shround that encloses the cable from the transom to the shift bracket?

    7. I have visited the Hastings site detailing this process, so I have the adjustment info.

    8. I am thinking that I probably have only a shift cable that needs routine replacement, and it isn't necessarily related to the early failure issues.

    Can anyone offer any tips / advice / answers on the questions? Assuming I am mechanically inclined... ( I am), how long does this take?

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2

    Default "Just finished replacing my sh

    "Just finished replacing my shift cable. Hastings site is good . I reccommend getting the original omc factory repair manual.You can find it on e-bay used. Pictures etc. are better than Hastings site. Seloc manual is a must also. Seloc goes more in depth on some things. You might as well change the drive shaft bellows and exahust bellows at this same time. Cheap insurance. (The new exhaust bellows will have slits in them to drain water, face the slits to the bottom.)Just slide the new cable housing through the transom hose. A little grease on cable housing helps. After you get cable housing through then push cable core through to prevent kinking. Follow the adjustment procedures to the letter! I did all this and it still shifted hard from forward to reverse and back. I had disconnected the esa because it was not working properly and this is the problem that you can experiance. Followed procedure in original omc repair manual for esa adjustment and found the overstroke switch was falty. It shifts perfect now. I just mention this because there are other reasons for hard shift besides transom cable. Worth looking at the past posts on this site regarding this issue. Good Luck!"

  3. #3

    Default "Chris..thanks....I have order

    "Chris..thanks....I have ordered parts, and am getting the OMC manual.
    Probably a week away from doing it. Will keep you posted on results.

    Appreciate the suggestions very much.

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