2000 40 hp Johnson

"I have a cold starting proble

"I have a cold starting problem. I have owned this motor since new, it has performed perfectly until now.Once started, it will restart all day. The next day, the same problem occurs. To prime the motor you push in on the key, I suspect that the problem is in the primer, any idea's."

"James, it's possible that

"James, it's possible that your primer solenoid has given up on you - or you have a bad connection at the very least.

By depressing your key, it connects the voltage to the solenoid, which depresses the primer on the carb.

You can check for voltage at the solenoid with a volt meter (while having someone depress the key).

If that shows good, you could try removing the solenoid and even manually depressing the primer a couple times and see how the engine responds when you try and start, or just observe the solenoid itself, to see if it's activating..."

"Thanks for the advice Graham.

"Thanks for the advice Graham. I returned to the lake this weekend and checked the things you mentioned but I did not have a volt meter so I used a test light. I had someone depress the key while I had the test light on the positive side of the primer selenoid. I did get power but it was eratic, not every time it was pushed. I checked the wire between the ignition and the selenoid and it showed no problems. I removed the wire from the back of the ignition that goes to the primer and put the light on that prong. Again it was eratic, sometimes strong and sometimes weak, sometimes nothing at all. When it did light up I could hear a click and it would light up for a couple seconds. I also put a hot wire direct to the hot side of the selenoid to see if I could see it activating but heard or observed nothing. I did see a red handle on the selenoid that moves from moves from about 9 to 3 on a clock. It was set at about 1. Any more idea's?"

"It sounds like the solenoid i

"It sounds like the solenoid is ok, but you may have a problem in the wire going up to your control. You should have had a strong, stable voltage there all the time.

Or alternately, the contacts in the key switch may be corroded a little (or just getting worn out).

If you can get ahold of an ohm meter (or multi-meter) and check for continuity in your wiring that may allow you to narrow it down to the keyswitch...."

"I did remove the power wire f

"I did remove the power wire from the rear of the ignition switch and the primer wire. When I held them together, I had a strong solid light at the selenoid. But I did not hear or see any activation of the selenoid. I do think there is an ignition switch problem, is there a way to clean the contacts or are they internal?"

"James, it's sounding more

"James, it's sounding more like it's the ignition switch that's the problem. They do get worn out.

If the external contacts, where the wires connect, are clean, there isn't much more you can service on these.

They can usually be obtained for 20 bucks or so at the discount retailers, so replace it if it appears everything else is working good.

If you do replace it though, make sure you get a "marine" switch - an automotive one works (backwards) and will fry all sorts of things on your motor..."

"I finally made it back to cha

"I finally made it back to change the ignition. I now have a solid light at the selenoid when I push in on the key. But I still have a starting problem. I found the check valve on the top of the fuel tank stuck, is this a common problem? Also, how can I detect if the selenoid is working, I can not any sounds coming from it. Thanks for your help."