Removing shift cable from stringer sterndrive 800

"Its me again, I am trying to

"Its me again, I am trying to take my outdrive off i was going about it all wrong but with the help of this board im back on track, I just need to know on the shift cable what end do i need to take off i tried to seperate the upper and lower and took the bolts out that hold the shift cable but it is attached to a rod with a pin and cotter key inside a oil resevoir. Im thinking i need to take it aloose from the top and feed it through the intermediate and down through the upper, My shift cable is on a panel that bolts to the top of the bellhousing,I cant see how it comes apart. If anyone knows please let me know, Im waiting on my service manual to get here but you all have been right on time so far i may as well keep working til it gets here with advice from you all, Thanks so much for everything so far. I'll try not to be such a pest."

"Off the top of my head:

1.

"Off the top of my head:

1. Take the battery or batteries out of the boat!
2. Take the cable and lever arm off the shift lever atop what you call the "panel"
3. take 4 screws off the panel and lift the cover off - take out the black plastic guide in there
4. remove the little cable retainer clips
5. reach with your left hand around behind the "panel" and grab the 2 spring loaded pawls and pull them back toward the transom, and push the cable housing into the panel box (shift converter it's called)with your right hand
6. Unwind the bare cables off the guides and slide the cable out of the converter
7. Eyeball the hole where the cable exits the boat - Spray the cable sheath inside the boat and outside the boat with PB blaster or similar penetrant- let it sit 30 minutes
8. remove the clip that retains the cable on the outside of the intermediate housing deep in there where the cable exits the rear of it (1/2" socket I think)
9. 2 people - 1 push on the cable from inside, 1 pull it from outside....if it don't come - more penetrant and time! It's $400 don't tear it!
10. Mark your ball gears with paint how they are indexed to each other so they will go back with their original mates
11. pull the water directors and steering bumpers off, remove the 4 cap screws (9/16" socket) - drive is off - about 90 pounds

Takes me 15 to 20 minutes- done it a few times....I've even done it on a beach with the boat in the water..."

#1 is the MOST important. Don&

#1 is the MOST important. Don't do anything else untill it's done unless you have a whole lot of extra cash laying around for a new cable.

"Hy Stat has this stuff down!

"Hy Stat has this stuff down! The cable is tough to get through the intermediate housing. Use the oil like he said. What I did was pull some slack from where the cable goes through upper unit. I pulled it back towards the intermediate, then I took a 10 inch 3/8 extension and I stuck that between the cable and part of the intermediate and used it as a lever, wahhlahh it came right out. At first, I was abosolutely sure that I was going to have to cut it. Be patient and it will loosen. They are on ebay for $295. I have seen them on the net for $250-$260. GLM makes an aftermarket one. Hopefully you won't need it."

I am working on an omc stringer 800 and can’t seem to get the cable in the right position where it engages the shift rod it’s a 1978 and has the hydraulic assist, one forum I read said you have to get an it to engage the right tooth on the rack gear and shift it into forward measure the short cable, then shift it into reverse and measure the same short cable then add the two lengths and find the mean and it has to be 7 5/32”-7 29/32” I did not realize how difficult it would be to get the shift rod and shift housing back together. Any pointers? I have tried numerous times and can’t get the right measurements.