Logo
FULL SITE MENU

318 cooling system

D

diercoff

New member
"Once again, another silly que

"Once again, another silly question: how can I tell if its a raw water or fresh water system? Also, how can I run this engine out of the water?

TIA"
 
FWC has a heat exchangerattach

FWC has a heat exchangerattached to the motor with all kinds of hoses running all over the place.


JEff
 
"Then I have a FWC. Can I run

"Then I have a FWC. Can I run this engine, safely, out of the water then? For a short time for testing?"
 
"Both FWC and raw water system

"Both FWC and raw water systems require raw water cooling at ALL times. The heat exchanger might be OK without raw cooling water for a few minutes at low speed, but the water pump impellar probably won't be. Running even for a few mintues without cooling water can shred the rubber impellar in the raw water pump. Usually the raw water system will have a strainer with a removable cap . You can insert a garden hose in the open strainer to substitute for the raw water from the seacock. Here is a photo of mine. I unscrew the threaded cap (that says Groco in the photo) on the top of the strainer and let the hose flow wide open into the top of the strainer. If you don't have this, you can disconnect one of the intake hoses upstream of the raw water pump and insert a garden hose. The alternative is picking shedded bits of impellar out of the block which is not a good choice.
81682.jpg

Good Luck
Chuck"
 
"Maybe you can help me? I have

"Maybe you can help me? I have a chrysler 273 I/O. The problem is when i started it for a few minutes, (had to keep giving it gas to stay started)The water pump on the engine started smoking, well I disconected the hose from it and seen that they were completly dry. Sounds to me like Im not getting any water to it. What could be the problem?"
 
"First of all, you need to sta

"First of all, you need to start a separate thread--this is another guy's.

In your case, look for an air leak before the raw water pump or a plugged inlet strainer.

Jeff"
 
318 Cooling System - The heat

318 Cooling System - The heat exchanger for the fresh/raw water cooled system - The one that FastJeff wrote 5/29 "-exchanger attached to the motor with all kinds of hoses running all over the place." Does anyone have a picture of this heat exchanger with the hoses attached and possible a discription of where these hoses attach to/from and where does the heat exchanger mount on the engine? Any help would be good -this piece has been a mystery. Thanks
GS
 
"The location of the heat exch

"The location of the heat exchanger depends on the engine setup. My mechanic told me that is has to be located lower than the coolant fill. (The coolant fill cap must be the highest plumbing point on the engine otherwise coolant will come out when you open the fill cap) My Chrysler is a attached to a V-drive so my setup might be different than yours.

There are currently 3 different FWC kits available for the Chrysler Marine engines. See link below. They have different exchangers.

http://www.ebasicpower.com/c/CHRFWC/Fresh+Water+Cooling+for+Chrysler

Here are some pictures of my engine along with some plumbing diagrams. I fresh water cooled the exhaust manifolds, some choose not to and just fwc the engine.

http://www.putfile.com/vabeach1234/images/9734

Ken
1972 F26 Trojan Express Hardtop
FWC Chrysler 318 V-drive Paragon Trans."
 
I have a 1981 Trojan TRI Cabin

I have a 1981 Trojan TRI Cabin with Chrysler 318. My question is how do I remove the heat exchanger when there is electronic ignition and cannot reach the hold down bolts? Do I have to remove the distributor and do it from the front.
Thank you
Paul S
 
"Hi Paul,

Why are you takin

"Hi Paul,

Why are you taking it out?

It helps to be patient, persistent, creative and part contortionist. The first time I removed my heat exchanger, I had the engine out of the boat for re-powering so it was somewhat easier to get at, but still not easy. You definitely want to remove stuff around it to make it easier to get at. Getting some of the hoses out of the way may help. Taking the plastic cover over the electrical harness and oil pressure sensor is a first step. See if you can get at the starter bolts. One of the bolts on the starter flange held down one leg of the Heat-X on mine. The other was held on a bracket attached to one of the transmission mounting bolts. Try experimenting approaching from different angles with a small drive ratchet (with or without an extension and a universal joint), box wrenches or if needed an open end wrench, but if they are rusty, its easy to spin the head of the bold off. You have to be patient and make sure the wrench has a good purchase on the head before applying significant torque. For really tight places I've taken a cheap box wrench and cut the handle in half so I needed less room to swing it and and ground down around the outer perimeter, making it easier to get into tight places.

One thing I did when I put mine back was to fabricate a steel bracket that raised the Heat exchanger about an inch and a half above the starter flange bolt to make the bolt easier to access. I was advised not to change the height too much, but I've been running it like that for seveal seasons with no issues.

When I was repowering, I had a bear of a time getting the transmission bolts off. I eventually got them all loose except for one of the nuts which are on the lower set of studs. I eventually gave up and split that one with a dremel tool. But that was with the motor out of the boat.

Lots a Luck,
Chuck
1975 Trojan F-26"
 
Back
Top