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cascadetowing

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Trying to find out The correct

Trying to find out The correct amount of Labor to R&R a motor. For a Mercruiser w/a 305 V8. Would anybody have any ideas? Or maybe a website where to look? Thank you..

Marine Engine.com is GREAT!!
 
"Regarding the R&R, the dr

"Regarding the R&R, the drive manufacturer is less important that the boat maker. In a mid-engine tournament ski boat it's a piece of cake, while some cruisers, runabouts and cuddies are a royal PITA. Think about what has to come out before the motor, how accessible the motor, linkage and harness are while it's together, and then add the time to re-assemble everything that has nothing to do with the motor itself. Also, remember that the outdrive needs to come off first."
 
"My local shop quoted me 10-14

"My local shop quoted me 10-14 hours to R&R a 4.3 with a drop in 6.2. The boat is a Blue Water Mirage, fairly accessible, no switching of parts. Also based on me R&R'ing the drive, not that that is a big deal.
Rod"
 
"Correct me if I am out of the

"Correct me if I am out of the ballpark with this information.

The 6.2L MPI @ 320 HP drop-in engine is about $12K plus labor and misc. parts. It also requires a Bravo drive for about $5-6K. If you stick with a 350 MAG MPI @ 300 HP for about $9K + labor and misc., it should mate to an Alpha 1 drive.
Guy"
 
"Guy;
The Merc 6.2 MAG MPI th

"Guy;
The Merc 6.2 MAG MPI that I am putting in is rated at 350 hp according to Merc. That must be crankshaft hp. The Merc PN is 865108R11. It cost me about $10K for the engine, plus I am paying about $3K more in misc. costs.
I am mating it up to my orignal Alpha 1 Gen II, but changing the ratio to 1.47. Understandably it is overpowered for the Alpha, so I am going to have to be somewhat gentle. The boat empty weight is only 2500 lbs, so that will help.
The engine package came with a Bravo bellhousing and coupler, both of which mate up to the Alpha transom assembly just fine. I am re-using the Alpha shift bracket, but I had to order a different interrupt switch and actuator to use with the MPI setup. It is an NC switch whereas the normal switch is NO. The MPI harness has a plug to accept the new switch.
I am also installing a set of Corsa diverters and thru-transom tips.
Why go to all this trouble? Just 'cause.
Rod"
 
"Rod:
You will have a power

"Rod:
You will have a powerful chick magnet when it's finished--don't blame you for doing it. Since you have gone this far, consider adding a drive shower to keep it cooler and use synthetic drive oil; with that much power you'll be able to fry fish with the hot drive oil. Does the engine include complete fresh water cooling? For that much investment I would spend the extra money for the cheap internal engine corrosion insuurance. Guy"
 
"I wish on the "chick magn

"I wish on the "chick magnet" issue! They don't seem to be attracted to grey hair much. Besides that would just get me into serious doggy do-do.
Thanks for your suggestions, and yes I plan on a drive shower to help the cooling. I get conflicting opinions on the oil. Some say go with Mobil 1 synthetic 75W-90; others say stick with Merc high perf. Not sure what to do there.
The boat is only used in fresh water, so I am just leaving it raw water cooled, and using the Alpha drive pump. I have removed the engine driven seawater pump. If it turns out this setup does not provide sufficient cooling, I will reconnect the engine driven pump and put in a hull water pickup.
Thanks for the thoughts.
Rod"
 
"Rod:

I use Mobil 1 in my

"Rod:

I use Mobil 1 in my trucks and it seems to stay cleaner longer, but I also use their synthetic filter which has a lower micron filtering rating.

Check with consumer reports for their test results. Also read the specs. on Mercs. and Mobil's gear oil and judge for yourself.

Guy"
 
""They don't seem to b

""They don't seem to be attracted to grey hair much"

What, you never heard of Grecian Formula 16?"
 
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