Thanks Joe Great Advice Motor issues now

" Dear Joe Reeves,
Thanks for

" Dear Joe Reeves,
Thanks for the great advice on the waterpump impellor and how to check my warning Buzzer. Job went smoothly and appears to be pumping fine and the alarm buzzer is functional.
Can I pester you for more tips? The patient is a 71 3cyl 60 HP E-rude electric shift. After the maiden voyage the other day (Pushing a 16 foot tri-toon) had some issues with stalling and fouling I'd like to discuss. I can get it running ok, and it will idle up and down fine. But when I put it into gear it would bog and quit. eventually i got it to chug up and got it to a throttle setting that wouldn't stall. Then up to full it ran smoothly and quietly with no probs. Then shut it off, and it would start very hard, and I had trouble getting it to engage and push as it would stall under load almost every time. got it back to dock and noticed some things that I would love your comments on.
1. Found a pinhole leak in the fuel line "bulb" so I probably had some air intrusion to the fuel.
2.I notice that to get the solenoid shift to function I had to turn the ignition off completely and then put into nuetral. If I stalled and didn't de-energize the ign/shift system completely it would stay in forward adn still try to start.jsut pushing the Nuetral button did nothing. Normal op?
3. I eventually fouled one of the plugs. # 1 (top) cylinder looked like the plug was gooked up pretty good. #2 looked like it was ok but headed towards fouling and #3 looked clean. It also used a lot of fuel for a short ride. I know a fuel line leak doesn't help..but anything else.
Compression is 110 to 120 psi on all cylinders.
4.These are the gapless center fire plugs. NOTE!
The top cylinder appears to have been heli-coiled with some kind of insert that has the plug approx 1/8" further out than the lower two plugs.
5. Exhaust through the prop is clean and no oil residue. Of course the gravel I dragged it through could have polished that off (kidding) but it sure does a number on the prop edges...guess that's why it's Named "The Rock River"

Anyway, any helpful tips on setting carbs or idle so I don't stall out and start a little easier would be appreciated. Thanks again.
Also to everybody else who has helped.
JBR "

"Jim.... Answering your questi

"Jim.... Answering your question by numbers:

1 - Fuel leaks anywhere between the fuel pump and the fuel supply cause the pump to draw air.

2 - Simply pushing the neutral button should have energized neutral without having to turn the key off, then back on.

Thinking about it as you've explained it, one would think that when the engine's running, pushing the neutral button would do nothing.

I would assume that you are not returning the throttle lever to the low rpm position when you push that button. If so, there is a nylon lockout over top (inside the c/box) of the shift button assy that prevents the pushing of any button when the throttle lever is over a certain rpm setting.

If that lockout did not exist, it would be possible to go from forward to reverse, reverse to neutral, whatever at full throttle. Not a good idea.

3 - Sounds like carb problems which I'll get to later down this reply. However, check the spark with the s/plugs out. Spark should jump a 1/4" gap on that engine with a strong blue flame on all cylinders.

4 - The surface gap plugs work well on some engines. You could try the electrode type plugs such as the Champion QL77JC4 or L77JC4 plugs with the gap set to .030 (the "Q" is a resistor plug).

That insert is undesirable for the reason you state. It's best when threads are damaged, to have a stainless steel "Heli Coil" installed which, in effect, restores the original threads. I would assume that the insert you mention eliminates any chance of having that done.

5 - Find another river!

Now, about those carburetors. See the following.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns. Set all 3 carbs to this setting at the same time.

Then.... pertaining to the following, do the top carb first, then the center, then finally the bottom. It's a good idea to go back over them for final adjustments. However, do not jump around when adjusting ie a little on the top one, then a little on the center etc. Do one completely before going to the next one.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Joe "

I have just purchased a 1969

I have just purchased a 1969 Johnson 6hp outboard. Is the oil mix 32 or 50 to 1 ?