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Volvo Penta 280 Hard shifting

stanky

New member
I have an 86 VP 280 and it is

I have an 86 VP 280 and it is hard shifting. If you have the leg turned then you have to straighten it to shift. Is this a lubrucation or adjustment issue?
Another question Should you be able to shift when the engine is off?
 
"more than likely a bad cable.

"more than likely a bad cable. remove the rear cover on the drive, disconnect the cable. You should be able to move shifter with Your fingers. You can shift it with engine off."
 
The linkage moved easy. Looks

The linkage moved easy. Looks like a job to run hat cable. Any hints or tricks I should know about?
 
"You will have to remove the c

"You will have to remove the cube from the cable (part 36 in the link), then remove the screw 33 and washer 34 so that you can take out of the way the lock tab 32, then you can pull the cable out of the leg, then pull it from the hose by the transom inside of the boat, then remove it from the shift lever. Make sure you buy a compatible cable of the exact same length as the one you have, and install it.

When you are going to re-install the screw and the cable lock tab in the leg intermediate housing, I suggest you coat both with Perfect Seal or similar so that the screw is easy to remove in the future. Also, you may want to coat with Perfect Seal both the metal section of the cable sleeve that goes through the intermediate housing and the hole in the housing so that it does not cause electrolysis with the aluminum of the leg. Finally, when connectig the cube, coat the threads with water-based grease.

You may have to take some time adjusting the cube. When you verify that it shifts well both ahead to astern and stays in neutral where it should, then install the cotter pin 37 (make sure it is either stainless or brass).

Last summer I changed the shift cable in my 280 and found it easier to remove the leg from the transom shield, but in my case the shift cable metal sleeve was frozen to the intermediate housing. Whoever installed the old shift cable never coated the metal part of the sleeve with Perfect Seal, so it took to me some time (and a drill) to make the intermediate housing fit for the new cable.


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"I usually remove the upper ge

"I usually remove the upper gear. makes the cable, and keeper easy to access. drain drive first, and be aware of the shims under the bearing. don't lose them. also, feed the new cable from the outside. now Your u-joints and bellows are checked, too. reach in there and give the intermediate shaft a shake while You're at it.(intermediate bearings should have no sideplay) fill'er up with oil, and have a trouble-free season.good luck."
 
"Thanks for all the help. I wi

"Thanks for all the help. I will let you know how it turns out, Keep your ears open for an SOS soon.
hahahaha"
 
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