Question on older 6hp Evinrude

"I recently purchased a 6hp ev

"I recently purchased a 6hp evinrude motor that had no spark. I replaced the points and condensors, and the spark was very good, but I am not getting any fire. My friend said that the compression was low and that was the problem. Both cylinders read at 31 lbs. My question is, what should the compression be at?"

That compression is very low.I

That compression is very low.It is possible that the head gasket is blown between cylinders. Do nothing else but pull the cylinder head and check the gasket and look for scored cylinders.

"if you pull the head to inspe

"if you pull the head to inspect the gasket, you might as well replace it while you are at it--one less thing to worry about--if you post the year or model number we can tell you the torque values for those headbolts--"

"I believe that it is a 1965 E

"I believe that it is a 1965 Evinrude 6HP, Model # 6502. Thank you for all the help, every little bit of information is GREATLY appreciated!!!"

60-80 INCH pounds--I would rep

60-80 INCH pounds--I would replace any washer that was under the flywheel nut also--its not a good idea to reuse locking devices--imho

Excellent! Thanks again. I&#

Excellent! Thanks again. I'll let you know what I find out tomorrow.

"Compression would depend on t

"Compression would depend on the speed that the engine is being pulled over. I assume that the coils are okay? If any flaws exist, replace them.

Points should be set when the flywheel key is aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the points. Points should be set so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not.

Spark plugs may be either Champion J4C or J6C plugs, gapped at .030. The J6C may give the engine a somewhat better performance.

Fuel/oil mixture is to be 50/1 (1pt of 50/1 oil to 6 gal gas). A octane rating of 87 will be fine. If filling a empty 6 gallon tank, put in a gallor or two, then the oil, then finish filling with gas. To ad oil first causes raw oil to be forced to the carburetor when the gas is added.

If the engine has been sitting for some time, I'd suggest that the carburetor be removed, cleaned, and rebuilt.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"

"As it turns out, it was a blo

"As it turns out, it was a blown head gasket right between the two cylinders! I got another one and a carb rebuild kit and plan to install them tomorrow. Thanks for all of your help, I will be telling everyone I know about this."