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1984 70Hp Evenrude runs good then only idles

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"My 1984 70 Hp Evenrude Modle

"My 1984 70 Hp Evenrude Modle # E70ELCTE starts, idles and runs great then after running for 10 min or so it looses power and will only idle. I have cleaned out the fuel system from tank to carbs and still cant fix it. Thanks in advance from Charleston SC!"
 
try running it on an aux tank

try running it on an aux tank
could be fuel pump
when was the last tune u did on it
do u have a manual?
 
"Carl.... Are you running on a

"Carl.... Are you running on a portable tank or a built in tank?

When the engine dies down, does the fuel primer bulb have a tendency to go flat?

Does your heat warning horn operate properly? Test the horn by having the key in the ON position (engine not running), then grounding out the TAN heat warning sensor wire that protrudes out of the cylinder head. Grounding that wire should make the horn engage and sound off."
 
"Thanks to all for the fast re

"Thanks to all for the fast responce. I did find out it is an 1983 model not 84 as I stated above. When I pump on fuel bulb there is no difference (bulb stays full)I have rebuilt carbs and fuel pump and I have used another fuel tank with fresh gas and oil. As for overheating, water pump is working and expelling water. Overheat horn does operate.
When the engine is cool it runs fine when it warms up it will only idle."
 
"Justin.... Perhaps I could le

"Justin.... Perhaps I could learn something here. What sensors should he check and why, and how would he go about that?

The Inrared Temp tool.... why would he need that if the engine is not overheating and the heat warning horn system is operational?

With my experience, I have a problem understanding many of your short posts so I can well imagine that a novice would be at a complete loss if the reply isn't explained fully."
 
"Look under the flywheel to in

"Look under the flywheel to inspect the stator which is the beginning of the ignition and battery charging system.

The stator consists of a series of small coils which pertain to the charging system, BUT there are three (3) larger coils divided evenly within in its circumference that supply approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack capcitor, needed to energize the ignition.

It is possible that the stator is cracked and/or melting down somewhat. This would (at times) allow the stator to function properly when cold, but as it heated up, it would develop a voltage drop which would result in weak and eventually non existent ignition. Look it ovee closely."
 
"u told him how to test the ho

"u told him how to test the horn by pulling the tan wire
that only is testing the wiring to the sensor right, not the sensor itself

the is an ohm spec probably for the sensor, i have no idea what the spec is

the only other think i can see is that when it warms up, the stator or other electrical components are heating up and not making a full connection

i talk short for free info"
 
"read it slowly
i talk short


"read it slowly
i talk short
for free info (given out here)

there are a lot of awesome techs, like yourself, who will not give info out. they want u (average person) to come to the shop so u can pay them u got to make a living"
 
"'J-I-T':
That engine


"'J-I-T':
That engine has NO sensors, it has switches!
Temp switch for the alarm system is either open or closed, nothing in between. Instruments for temp reading, oil pressure reading etc have sensors. If You want to test a switch You may use an OHM meter and check open/closed or just something as simple as a 5w light bulb between the switch and tan wire. (the switch grounds the circuit)."
 
"If one really want to check t

"If one really want to check the heat warning unit thoroughly, it can be done as follows:

54087.jpg
sensor"">

I'll make that a little larger below."
 
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