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Advice on a 1986 Evinrude 225 overheating problem

G

gabriel

New member
" After changing the water pum

" After changing the water pump and impeller on my 1986 Evinrude 225, the engine started to overheat (Alarms sounds) at low rpm's. I could run the engine above 1000 rpm's and it runs perfect without overheating (No alarm), with water coming out of the pee hole even at low rpm's. After troubleshooting and changing both thermostats found that there is a bend in the brass tube that carries the water up to the engine. I asked the o/b tech at the shop and he told me that the reason that the engine only overheat at low rpm's is because there is not enough water being put out thru the water tube due to the bend. But when the engine goes above 1000 rpm's there is enough presure to force water up the tube. He said that to replace this water tube is a major job, because the power head needs to be removed. My question is, have this ever happened to anybody out there and if there is another way to fix this other than removing the power head. Any advice is appreciated, thanks. "
 
"Is the water tube cracked/spl

"Is the water tube cracked/split?Are you using brand x or factory water pump parts? White or current black thermostats? old soft or new style hard thermo seats?What temp does the engine idle at?Which temp sender are you using?and did you test them?I have a Quick,easy,cheap water tube fix using factory parts.You can always call me. Did your dealer refer to service bulletin #2225&2202? Zeke 561-746-1508 [email protected]"
 
"Gabriel.... All water tubes h

"Gabriel.... All water tubes have a bend in them, a smooth curvature of sorts. However if you're speaking of a sharp kink, that's another matter. I have seen a few tubes that were pushed upwards due to someone not having the water pump tube tower lined up properly to accept the copper water tube, which naturally shoved the tube upwards when the lower unit was bolted up to the exhaust housing.

With this in mind, have the lower unit removed and hold a straight edge across the lower open portion of the exhaust housing. Measure up to the bottom of the water tube. Now, measure from the top edge of the lower unit to the top of the water pump tube tower. These measurements will enable you to judge just how far the water tube enters into the water pump grommet. The tube should enter that tube tower for the full length of the grommet. If it does not, the tube is bent and kinked somewhat.

I've encountered that situation a few times and have been successful in straightening it by using vice grips to pull downwards on the tube, and a pry of some kind at the bent/kinked area of the tube (nothing to lose by trying).

Hopefully you installed the complete water pump kit... housing, grommet, impeller and cup, plate, etc etc. If you installed just a impeller, I strongly suggest you purchase the complete kit and start over.

If you did install a complete pump kit, there is the possibility that the "O" Ring Seal between the housing and plate slipped out of place (it happens), and/or the unit was not sealed properly.

(Gasket Sealers)
Gasket Sealer (the type that comes in a can that has a small brush in its screw off cap) must be used on the plate gasket (unless that gasket is coated with a shiny substance (self sealer), and "Sealer 1000" or "OMC Adhesive" (same substance) must be used on any metal to metal or metal to plastic surface (such as impeller hsg to plate), and also on the "O" Ring Seal mentioned above to eliminate air leaks. Sealer 1000 may also be found in other brand names such as "Boat Armor" but the name of Sealer 1000 will always be mentioned on the tube.

Let us know what you find.

Joe
"
 
" Zeke, Joe,
Thanks for your

" Zeke, Joe,
Thanks for your quick responses. I did take the l/u down yesterday and found a bend/kink at the last bend of the water tube. It's not too bad, water still flowing thru. Joe I am going to follow your instructions and try to open it up a little bit more before going any further.

Zeke, I used factory parts when I changed the water pump,impeller and t/s (black ones). However it grab my attention when you mention the temp senders. Where do I find them and how do I test them. I have a Evinrude/Johnson service manual for my engine but it doesn't cover temp senders. Again, thanks a lot for your advice, everytime I open this forum I learn something new about outboards. "
 
gabriel said:
" After changing the water pum

" After changing the water pump and impeller on my 1986 Evinrude 225, the engine started to overheat (Alarms sounds) at low rpm's. I could run the engine above 1000 rpm's and it runs perfect without overheating (No alarm), with water coming out of the pee hole even at low rpm's. After troubleshooting and changing both thermostats found that there is a bend in the brass tube that carries the water up to the engine. I asked the o/b tech at the shop and he told me that the reason that the engine only overheat at low rpm's is because there is not enough water being put out thru the water tube due to the bend. But when the engine goes above 1000 rpm's there is enough presure to force water up the tube. He said that to replace this water tube is a major job, because the power head needs to be removed. My question is, have this ever happened to anybody out there and if there is another way to fix this other than removing the power head. Any advice is appreciated, thanks. "
Click to expand...
I'm experiencing the same thing... 1987 225 Evinrude V6... New EMP 143 Degree Thermostats, New Water pump impeller, very good water flow from pee-tube (extremely hot), Water tube does not seem to be bent? Any solution on yours? Michael
 
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