Logo

Powerhead rebuild or not

The pin is removed by driving it towards where the carburetors were.------Should not require heat or any potions !!-----On more than one occasion have I seen u-tubers blundering on this.---Lower crank seal housing falls off when crankcase is separated.

RC1 no special tool just a brass punch
 
Hello everyone! RC1 Tear down complete here are some pics. Piston tops
 

Attachments

  • 0ED845E6-5DDB-4DE7-AAE8-F47CB2003D3A.jpeg
    0ED845E6-5DDB-4DE7-AAE8-F47CB2003D3A.jpeg
    195.4 KB · Views: 8
  • 0D0AAB51-6648-408A-9628-9BC9F55178DA.jpeg
    0D0AAB51-6648-408A-9628-9BC9F55178DA.jpeg
    220.3 KB · Views: 11
  • 781DD570-DC90-4896-89AC-04D7582EF424.jpeg
    781DD570-DC90-4896-89AC-04D7582EF424.jpeg
    211.3 KB · Views: 12
Piston skirts
 

Attachments

  • 010A27C0-E1DC-4CF2-829F-E48B54B82C18.jpeg
    010A27C0-E1DC-4CF2-829F-E48B54B82C18.jpeg
    109.4 KB · Views: 13
  • 8AE9B984-636A-49EF-A7DC-453BDDF712BE.jpeg
    8AE9B984-636A-49EF-A7DC-453BDDF712BE.jpeg
    105.3 KB · Views: 11
  • EB7FF163-D3BF-45BF-92C8-A9A5E92B80AA.jpeg
    EB7FF163-D3BF-45BF-92C8-A9A5E92B80AA.jpeg
    115.3 KB · Views: 13
Cylinder bores
 

Attachments

  • 96D53086-D126-4AB3-834E-C95CB4D74433.jpeg
    96D53086-D126-4AB3-834E-C95CB4D74433.jpeg
    135.5 KB · Views: 20
  • D6F3964F-26DC-4578-B352-898EA835845A.jpeg
    D6F3964F-26DC-4578-B352-898EA835845A.jpeg
    115.3 KB · Views: 17
  • 011C715C-F3AB-4B8B-8A10-8C6C3F697E8F.jpeg
    011C715C-F3AB-4B8B-8A10-8C6C3F697E8F.jpeg
    115.3 KB · Views: 14
Rod journals
 

Attachments

  • A32D39BA-69E9-4705-937D-CC092B09D3C3.jpeg
    A32D39BA-69E9-4705-937D-CC092B09D3C3.jpeg
    118.2 KB · Views: 15
  • 696405CB-EBEF-47EB-B5D1-234AF2A67D30.jpeg
    696405CB-EBEF-47EB-B5D1-234AF2A67D30.jpeg
    113.7 KB · Views: 10
  • 6A0556AB-A286-4DCC-9326-0739BDBA209A.jpeg
    6A0556AB-A286-4DCC-9326-0739BDBA209A.jpeg
    116.2 KB · Views: 7
No broken rings and main bearing looked ok to me. However every piston has different numbers and apparently #3 is .30 over which didn’t surprise me due to the damage on the head. I noticed the piston also has the date stamped on it too. I wonder if need to pop a ring off and see what the gap
is.
 
I don't think breaking a ring will help you as it is unrelated to your problem. It would help to find out the point where you hear some very strange and loud noises.
 
Update guys finally got the block back from the machine shop, after I measured the cylinders and found out 2 had been already bored .030 over and the other standard I decided to take the block to the machine shop. Well he double checked and verified that was the case and told me the cylinder walls were pretty scored and recommended boring all to .040 so that's what I did. Here's a pic of boring job. Bored than ball honed to chamfer the ports and put the hatch marks on the cylinder walls. Cleaning up next.
 

Attachments

  • 85FF5F33-765F-4E76-A611-8AFB2A1184B2.jpeg
    85FF5F33-765F-4E76-A611-8AFB2A1184B2.jpeg
    148.4 KB · Views: 11
WSM pistons and gaskets seals and bearings. Ordered the different lubes from Crowley so I’m waiting on that now before I can start going back together.
 

Attachments

  • E0E1B12B-0C2E-49E3-B244-A306B24101EC.jpeg
    E0E1B12B-0C2E-49E3-B244-A306B24101EC.jpeg
    145 KB · Views: 9
  • 75577F57-9E4E-4AFC-829E-31D7A98EFE6D.jpeg
    75577F57-9E4E-4AFC-829E-31D7A98EFE6D.jpeg
    123.4 KB · Views: 7
So in the kit they sent caged wrist pin bearings not the 28 needle bearings I guess that must be an upgrade….you can see them in the pic above.
 
I always install the loose needle bearings.----The caged bearings are cheaper and will work I guess.-----And now you need to determine why this happened or it will happen again.------VRO checked out if still in service.----Tell tale hose comes off the top of the block ?----Latest water pump kit ??----Latest kit comes with parts and instructions for cooling system upgrade.
 
Morning R1,
yeah VRO disconnected and standard fuel pump installed complete with OEM mounting bracket. Also complete new upgraded water pump system with fitting relocated to top per spec. Sheet with the mega tubing....no way any sir getting trapped in there!
 
R1,
Side story for you! So going thru the storage compartment throwing out junk and such I stumbled on a couple cans of starting fluid my father-in-law had in the compartment! Didn't think much about it until one of the guys at work told a story about how he seized his motor up by using starting fluild! At that point I knew most likely what happened to the ole girl! No lube, dry cylinders got this one R1!!!
 
???---Compare the wrist pin diameter to the new pins in the kit.-------I would be installing the 28 needle bearings.-----And in my opinion the starting fluid had nothing to do with the scoring.----Unless it was used excessively and somebody did not know how to start this motor !----Bearing type has nothing to do with the WSM piston or 0.040" O/S either.-----The operation of a 2 stroke and the lubrication is much mis-understood !
 
Last edited:
R1,

I will call the parts guys and ask about a set of needle bearing. I'll follow up with what I find out. So my take on the starting fluid is all wrong.
 
The caged bearings are standard OEM on later 90's and up engines and work perfectly fine. Make sure you wash the block with hot soapy water. Run a string thru exhast port with piece of rag to clean all the boring/honing debris. Must be able to wipe cylinders and ports with white rag and get NO gray residue. The wipe down with a good spray lube. Also up the main jet 1 size at .040
 
Loose needles ( 395627 ) is the kit used as original equipment on 3 cylinder 70 in 2000.----Also used on the 2005 model 90 HP.
 
Thanks guys for the tips and info. I'll make sure to be critical about the cleanup on the block and make sure it passes the white rag test. I called WSM today and asked about the wrist pin bearing it's not a problem WSM P/N 010-140-01 same as Johnson/Evinrude 0395627. I asked about Caged versus the 28 pin and seems it's a preference issue.
 
Back
Top