Honda BF100A prop holder removal

Hi,

I need to remove the prop holder (Holder propeller shaft 41201-ZW1-B02ZC) from my outboard, due to some damage to the holder. Before I remove the holder do I need to remove the waterpump and the shift rod (as I don't need to remove the prop)?


Many thanks for any info.

Hi chris,

First off, I haven't done one on a 100hp but, looking at the parts page, there's little difference in yours and the ones I've done except for size maybe.

Not sure why you wouldn't want to remove the prop? I have always taken the prop and thrust washer off but I suppose you don't need to if you can access the mount bolts. Although, on second thought, I don't think the bolts will clear the hub to back all the way out. If you want to leave the prop on for pulling leverage, you can always reinstall it after removing the bolts.

Also, it is good practice to remove the prop to clear the shaft of wrapped line as that is probably the #1 killer of the water seal. I would not do any transmission work without at least inspecting the thrust washer. I replace them out of hand if they aren't like new anyway. Just sayin'.

You don't need to remove the pump or the shift shaft. Just unbolt the holder and it slides out. That is, of course, if it hasn't been sitting submerged in salt water developing a "bond" with the case via electrolysis and corrosion. I don't think it's "mandatory" but I believe leaving the trans in forward makes install a little easier. You should not have it in reverse as that exerts the most pressure on the shift pin and spring.

Please note that, when shifting a dog clutch transmission with the engine not running (dry shifting), you must always turn the shaft while making gear selections. It doesn't matter how fast or in which direction you turn, just as long as it is moving the clutch so that it doesn't get bound up.

The one PRECAUTION while R&R the propshaft holder is to keep the gear case horizontal or even trimmed all the way in to achieve a slight angle downward toward the prop. This prevents the shift pin and spring from falling out into the case. If that happens on removal, it's a pain to retrieve them sometimes. BUT...if they fall out during installation and you don't notice, it could be disaster!!

One last thing is that if you replace any parts, you will likely upset the thrust clearance adjustment. Shims are used to achieve correct thrust and you will need a shop manual to do the set up correcty if that's the case.

Good luck.

Hi Chris....
Please DISREGARD my post!! I stupidly gave you the wrong info! It does appear that your transmission shifts differently than the smaller models and doing what I suggested won't work! There may indeed be a reason to remove the shift shaft....I don't know.
Very sorry for wasting your time!

Never a waste of time, thanks for any input, I'll assess anything offered.

I should have clarified, I have already removed the prop, its the prop shaft that I was enquiring as to whether it needs to be removed along with the prop holder as one unit. (sorry my error, I should have proof read my post).

I was hoping I could use a gear puller, the type with arms that will go into the prop holder and wind it in against the end of the prop shaft - reason being is that I've tried to prise the propshaft holder away from the gear casing using a pry bar in each of the slots and its stuck fast, despite only being a year old.

Well, for whatever my "advice" may be worth, I would strongly discourage you from applying any more power or force than you already have. Doing that typically just results in something breaking and adding to the headaches this is already providing.

The place I went wrong on this is how the shift shaft engages the "shift plate" (item 7 in the link below). I'm not sure if that is what is causing the resistance you are encountering or not. You should not try to remove the holder without first making sure that the shift shaft end disengages that plate. I don't know exacty how that's done. Hopefully someone else here can give you good directiions.

https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...-bbmj-1100001-to-bbmj-1199999/propeller-shaft

The propshaft and holder assembly should exit the case as a unit but I know that many have had problems getting them to move.

Before using muscle I suggest using some heat at the case to holder joint. I would not use flame though unless you are very, very cautious. I recommend using an electric heat gun instead and, even then, you need to exercise discretion because that case is pretty delicate.

Good luck.