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Transom shield tab broken, weld, bolt or maybe OK without?

jjdiver

New member
I hope I present this properly and don't offend anyone. I could use some opinions from people with more smarts than I have on a couple of problems I found last weekend.

1985 SunRunner with a Volvo Penta 280 sterndrive and a 5.7GSi fresh water cooled engine (was re-powered a few years ago.) Mom and Dad bought the boat new and it's been used for cruising and as transportation to a remote cabin. Dad and I spent hours working on the boat together. Mom and Dad have passed away in 2016 and 2019--lot's of memories.

Labor day weekend I was half way home and I felt a loss of power and noticed steam/smoke venting from bilge. I shut down engine and was towed in. Found the port side exhaust hoses were split and melted. The paint on the exhaust pipe was bubbled and burned. Last weekend I removed the exhaust elbows and manifolds. I found the port elbow was blocked and rusted. I don't remember hearing the overheat alarm nor seeing the temp higher than normal. I was surprised at how easy it was to remove the elbows and manifolds. Only one broken bolt on the starboard elbow. Seems like Dad and I screwed up and should have checked the elbows and manifolds earlier. Easy to fix, if the engine wasn't damaged. I was thinking of having the elbows and manifolds cleaned, reinstalling with new gaskets and exhaust hoses and test running on muffs to make sure the engine is still running. If the engine is still running, I would replace the rusty port elbow and the other elbow and manifolds as needed. I pumped out a bit of engine oil and didn't see any evidence of water, checked the spark plugs and they appeared dirty, but OK.

I found two other problems. The low speed exhaust relief rubber flapper is melted on the port side. I have read a post by Rick saying it's possible to remove the Y pipe and replace the rubber flapper thingy. Seems like I can still fix it myself.

Second and perhaps the worst problem is the adjusting pin (814301) was broken and the starboard inner casting the pin goes through is broken (pic attached.) Can I have the broken part welded on or run with the broken casting? If not, the only solution is to replace the transom shield?

I will be retiring in a couple of years at the remote cabin--need a boat for transportation on and off island. Current boat is canvas. I am planning on buying a new hard top aluminium hull boat. Do I fix the current problems and sell it running or sell it as is?

Thanks to everyone!

Jeff
 

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Would think that the labor to remove the shield to weld it would be the same as to replace it...Not that much more to replace than weld.
The question remains.... how did it break in the fist place?
 
Ayuh,..... I donno 'bout Volvos, but on Merc drives, those tabs keep the drive centered on the transom, so that the torque doesn't twist the drive off,....
 
Would think that the labor to remove the shield to weld it would be the same as to replace it...Not that much more to replace than weld.
The question remains.... how did it break in the fist place?

Ummm, errrr, (oops look on face) hadn't thought about the heat from welding causing damage to the transom. Face palm!

I would love to know how the tab and adjusting pink broke. I do remember my friend and I feeling a thump and turning around to look at the wake--didn't see anything. The thump was either two or three engine/running hours and one or two weeks prior to overheating. I am surprised that a hit on the lower unit that could break the pin and tab didn't take off the lower unit. If either the tab or the adjusting pin had broken, I might have thought it was an old part and corrosion, but both parts broken seems to rule that out.

Jeff
 
Ayuh,..... I donno 'bout Volvos, but on Merc drives, those tabs keep the drive centered on the transom, so that the torque doesn't twist the drive off,....

Centered as in side to side? I don't recall the broken off tab showing wear/paint worn off. Centered as in twisting? I wonder if the adjusting pin would prevent twisting?

Once again, something I hadn't thought about. I am feeling a bit foolish with the two examples of not thinking through the process/problems.
 
Is there any reason I shouldn't have the elbows and manifolds boiled/dipped/cleaned, reassemble with new gaskets and hoses, then test run to see if there are any problems with the engine? I would feel better about replacing the transom shield (that has the broken tab) and one or both elbows if i knew the engine was working. Time and cost for gaskets and hoses isn't much and would help me make a decision on the transom shield.

Jeff
 
Is there any reason I shouldn't have the elbows and manifolds boiled/dipped/cleaned, reassemble with new gaskets and hoses, then test run to see if there are any problems with the engine? I would feel better about replacing the transom shield (that has the broken tab) and one or both elbows if i knew the engine was working. Time and cost for gaskets and hoses isn't much and would help me make a decision on the transom shield.

Jeff
Ayuh,..... All the rust, 'n junk, Used to be cast iron, 'n you won't know where it came from, which could be an extremely thin spot, which if it fails, it'll ruin the motor,....
 
Centered as in side to side? I don't recall the broken off tab showing wear/paint worn off. Centered as in twisting? I wonder if the adjusting pin would prevent twisting?

Once again, something I hadn't thought about. I am feeling a bit foolish with the two examples of not thinking through the process/problems.
Ayuh,..... For the same reasons we don't hammer the throttle through a turn, with the drive raised higher that the trim limit,....
The upper limit is where the drive clears the ears, 'n it becomes Tilt,....
 
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