I was informed that the MP41000 and the OEM 54211 are compatible. I am trying to track down an electrical problem and am running into this wall.
- The original key switch (54211 or 54211T) has five terminals labeled F, D, A, E, B (See pic)
- The New key switch (Sierra MP41000) has M, B, M, I, S and C. (See pic) C is Choke which I do not need. I can't figure out what the pictogram is telling me since the letters on the switch and wire colors don't correspond to my engine, either.
Can anyone shine some light on this for me?
Right now, I can get the engine started and running as long as the ground (Black) is only going to the start solenoid but NOT to the engine ground. The problem with this set up is that I cannot turn the engine off nor can I use the remote choke switch. If I attach the ground, the engine won't fire but the choke solenoid works.
Here's how I have it hooked up to the MP41000 going clockwise starting from the "I" position:
I: Orange and Choke switch on remote
S: Yellow wire to Start solenoid
M: Black Wires (one to the harness, one to the tach connection (which I do not use)
B: Red Wire
M: White
Do I have these hooked up right? When doing continuity tests from the posts to the external harness leads things seem to make sense with the key in different positions. If I have the key switch correct, is perhaps my switch block bad which is causing the grounding issues? Is there a way to test it? What I haven't tried is hooking up the ground wire I made and then disconnecting the kill circuit on the switch block to see if there is any change. would that be indicative of a bad switch block?
Or, my external wiring harness is more toast than I thought. I am replacing it, but the new one is stuck in the delivery system for almost a week thanks to storms that ravaged our area.
I've replaced the Stator, trigger, internal wiring harness, choke solenoid, key switch, and rebuilt the carbs. Compression testing is in the mid 140's - 150's on all cylinders, so there's lots of life left on this motor if I can just figure out this last bit.
- The original key switch (54211 or 54211T) has five terminals labeled F, D, A, E, B (See pic)
- The New key switch (Sierra MP41000) has M, B, M, I, S and C. (See pic) C is Choke which I do not need. I can't figure out what the pictogram is telling me since the letters on the switch and wire colors don't correspond to my engine, either.
Can anyone shine some light on this for me?
Right now, I can get the engine started and running as long as the ground (Black) is only going to the start solenoid but NOT to the engine ground. The problem with this set up is that I cannot turn the engine off nor can I use the remote choke switch. If I attach the ground, the engine won't fire but the choke solenoid works.
Here's how I have it hooked up to the MP41000 going clockwise starting from the "I" position:
I: Orange and Choke switch on remote
S: Yellow wire to Start solenoid
M: Black Wires (one to the harness, one to the tach connection (which I do not use)
B: Red Wire
M: White
Do I have these hooked up right? When doing continuity tests from the posts to the external harness leads things seem to make sense with the key in different positions. If I have the key switch correct, is perhaps my switch block bad which is causing the grounding issues? Is there a way to test it? What I haven't tried is hooking up the ground wire I made and then disconnecting the kill circuit on the switch block to see if there is any change. would that be indicative of a bad switch block?
Or, my external wiring harness is more toast than I thought. I am replacing it, but the new one is stuck in the delivery system for almost a week thanks to storms that ravaged our area.
I've replaced the Stator, trigger, internal wiring harness, choke solenoid, key switch, and rebuilt the carbs. Compression testing is in the mid 140's - 150's on all cylinders, so there's lots of life left on this motor if I can just figure out this last bit.
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