Newbie to the site and forum with questions on 1996 Honda BF50hp ALRTA

Newbie to the site and forum with questions ...how do I disconnect on a BF50 the green round 14 pin cable connector, that connects the right side remote control with trim & tilt cable to the green connector in the engine AND from the engine itself?? Seems to be attached to a bracket and I do not want to mess it up.

I am trying to troubleshoot the 1996 Honda BF50hp ALRTA on my grandson's boat that sat during COVID. I have a new battery, a new fuel bulb & lines to an external tank, and new fuel.

However, I can't get the key start ignition switch to start the engine; BUT, after the new battery was installed it did click over the starter for only 1-2 seconds by the key, and then nothing. I did disconnect and check and spray clean the 3 connectors in the wiring harness from the engine to the remote control unit and they all looked great and are reconnected.

I have been able to start the engine directly at the starter so I know it runs and the throttle and shifter work from the remote control which is mounted on the right side. Also, the trim and tilt are working from the remote. Does the remote buzzer work with the key ON or is the GREEN light ON with iGN switch ON on this vintage ??

I am thinking about the neutral switch, and starter solenoid but need help with how to troubleshoot it. I have a wiring diagram but wanted to reach out to you because of the expertise I see from you on this site. I also saw something about the green and red lights OR the safety lanyard clip/switch on the remote control??

Finally, I plan on having my grandson help with changing out the water impeller with a full kit because it has been sitting...just to be safe and have him have a learning experience and I wanted to ask you about any tips, tricks, shortcuts. and things to make that job easier?? Is there any place you are aware of to get a PDF copy of the Online Service Manual for this engine??

THANKS in advance for your time and help,

THANKS in advance for your time and help,

Pat

It's REALLY tricky, especially when patience is already on the short side, but there's a clip that can be released using a medium/small flat blade screw driver that will allow that plug to be slid off a metal bracket. There are similar all over the motor. It might help to find one that's easier to see to figure out the first one. I RARELY ever engage that plug back on to that bracket because releasing it is such a PIA.

The 2 heavy wires that run from the battery to the starter will frequently corrode internally. USUALLY there's a fat spot somewhere indicating that has happened, but not always. You might try temporarily installing a pair of jumper cables to see if the motor will turn over that way. That corroded area could be located anywhere along the length of this cable, so don't assume it's going to be on one end or the other.

Great plan replacing the entire pump! I would replace the thermostat as part of your refurb.

Regarding the lower unit removal, the trim fin (above the prop) must be removed to reveal the 5th bolt that fastens the lower unit. The shift linkage is easily found up front above the lower unit (stainless) and must be disconnected before the lower is removed. Break the lock nut free and run the coupler up far enough to clear the lower shaft. Sometimes more easily done with the engine in gear. While you are right there, observe the condition of the 2" tube the engine turns/pivots side to side on. If there is no large e-clip visible on the bottom of that tube, that tube is going to need to be replaced. Some mental giant decided they should be made from cast iron, and they are not holding up real well, frequently rusting from the inside out. See the e-clip detail here, #26
https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...-vin-bazs-3200001-to-bazs-3209999/swivel-case

Green light turns on when the engine starts making oil pressure.

At some point, it may be helpful to know that the 35, 40, 45, and 50 are all pretty much the same motor up through '05 or so.

Best of luck!

One tip: After you replace the impeller and want to test run the motor. Remember: These motors have water intakes on the sides, like most engines, AND above. So using just water ear muffs is not sufficient. Either get a large bucket/barrel for the WHOLE lower unit to sit in and submerged or take the boat to the ramp. Testing on the ramp with the engine fully in the water ensures you have all intakes submerged in the water/lake. Back the boat down the ramp and lower the engine into the water just like you are going to launch the boat. Keep the boat on the trailer in the water. You'll likely hear some gurgling as the water fills into the intakes in the lower unit. Now start the engine. Look for a good strong stream of water out the pee hole on the starboard near the rear. If no stream within 5 seconds or less, turn the engine off and investigate.
Sam

Agree. The 40-50hp water intakes above the prop are an issue. It's taken out more pumps than you can even imagine. My experience has been muffs are OK -IF- you have good water pressure and volume, and you don't run the engine over an idle - for any reason.

If you just have a dribble coming from the hose when turned on fully, don't even try to use that with muffs on this engine.

I've never had to do anything like that. That's all stainless so even the motors used in salt water come apart there easily.

pkirsch said:

Newbie to the site and forum with questions ...how do I disconnect on a BF50 the green round 14 pin cable connector, that connects the right side remote control with trim & tilt cable to the green connector in the engine AND from the engine itself?? Seems to be attached to a bracket and I do not want to mess it up.

I am trying to troubleshoot the 1996 Honda BF50hp ALRTA on my grandson's boat that sat during COVID. I have a new battery, a new fuel bulb & lines to an external tank, and new fuel.

However, I can't get the key start ignition switch to start the engine; BUT, after the new battery was installed it did click over the starter for only 1-2 seconds by the key, and then nothing. I did disconnect and check and spray clean the 3 connectors in the wiring harness from the engine to the remote control unit and they all looked great and are reconnected.

I have been able to start the engine directly at the starter so I know it runs and the throttle and shifter work from the remote control which is mounted on the right side. Also, the trim and tilt are working from the remote. Does the remote buzzer work with the key ON or is the GREEN light ON with iGN switch ON on this vintage ??

I am thinking about the neutral switch, and starter solenoid but need help with how to troubleshoot it. I have a wiring diagram but wanted to reach out to you because of the expertise I see from you on this site. I also saw something about the green and red lights OR the safety lanyard clip/switch on the remote control??

Finally, I plan on having my grandson help with changing out the water impeller with a full kit because it has been sitting...just to be safe and have him have a learning experience and I wanted to ask you about any tips, tricks, shortcuts. and things to make that job easier?? Is there any place you are aware of to get a PDF copy of the Online Service Manual for this engine??

THANKS in advance for your time and help,

THANKS in advance for your time and help,

Pat

Click to expand...

Hello-
Here is the link to OEM Honda Service Manuals. This is where I purchased mine.

https://publications.powerequipment.honda.com/marine