1977 Mercury 85HP Engine Harness Confusion

I had to replace some of the wires in my original engine harness as insulation was crumbling. p/n 84-73369.
I THOUGHT I replaced the wires with correct color coding, but now I'm second guessing myself (as engine is still having electrical issues even though it's got new stator, trigger, and switchbox).
I'm confused by the Engine Harness wiring diagram in the SELOC manual (pg A-24) versus the harness that's in my motor.
The harness has two large "pins" with one small one inbetween them on one side, and 3 small ones opposite.
Looking into the harness from outside the engine, the orientation of the illustration seems opposite of what's in my motor; namely, the two large "pins" in the illustration are on the left...versus my motor where they are on the right.
The SELOC manual shows
#1 (Black) large pin wire to ground and terminal on starter Solenoid
#2 (Brown) wire to Rectifier
#3 (Red) large pin wire to Starter Solenoid (battery post)
#4 (yellow) wire to starter solenoid
#5 (gray) wire to choke solenoid
#6 (orange) wire to switchbox (and to mercury switch)
However, The harness in my engine has the following. Starting with the top large pin and going clockwise:
1:00 position: Large pin, RED wire
3:00 position: small pin, gray wire
5:00 position: Large pin, Yellow wire
7:00 position: small pin, Orange wire
9:00 position: small pin, Black wire
11:00 position: small pin, Brown wire

As virtually NONE of the color coding of wires corresponding to specific harness pins seems to line up between what's in my motor and what's in SELOC,
a) am I reading the SELOC diagram wrong?
b) is the SELOC diagram not correct for my motor (and if so, do you have a correct diagram you could send me?)
c) did I seriously mess up my color coding (and hence electrical connections).
I appreciate any guidance
(Sorry for the text; I have 3 photos I've been trying to upload...but the site keeps saying it's checking my browser and then goes blank...so I deleted photos to see if the text is successful in getting through).
Photos in post below.

photos to go with text post:

Here's the complete wiring diagram from Mercurythis should help.

Thanks. The diagram from Mercury matches the diagram from SELOC.
If I rotate my engine harness so that the large pins are in the orientation of the diagram, then only RED and ORANGE wires match at the harness.
Here's the differences:
Mercury Diagram Black pin is my Yellow pin
Mercury Diagram Brown pin is my Gray
Mercury Yellow is my Brown
Mercury Gray is my Black
The color coding of my wires does match where the diagram shows them connecting to various components in the engine.
I'm wondering why the wires seem to have different pin assignments in the harness in my motor vs Mercury diagram, and now I'm also wondering if the pins of the internal harness are connecting to the proper pins of the external harness

I have a '79 Mariner 80HP. Same wiring harness and diagrams mentioned above. Notice that he external (boat side) harness has seven pins while the internal harness (engine side) has only 6 pins! The extra pin on the external harness has a white wire to it from the remote but does not match up with a lead on the engine harness. So what the heck is the white wire pin on the external harness doing since it connects to nothing?

I ask because I have a few problems. I recently acquired this engine & remote and had to replace every wire in the engine including the trigger and stator due to rot. I also had to resolder fresh (original wires but clean ends) to the key switch. The internal wiring harness was replaced but I'm still able to use the external because it's in good shape. Here's my problems so far:

1) I can't kill the engine. I have to use choke to kill the engine. This happened before I cleaned up the wires in the remote and after I cleaned them up.
2) Remote choke doesn't work. I cleaned up the choke switch and when I test it for continuity, it works. Strangely enough, if I use the mystery pin with the white wire and the pin that has the grey wire for the choke, continuity checks when I push the choke button. But when I hook the tester up to the ground and the grey wire at the choke solenoid, there is no continuity when I press the choke button. Continuity checks between solenoid ground and a ground strap.
3) While running the engine and holding a hose to the water tube (Lower unit is removed), I got zapped pretty hard when I grabbed the key to try to shut the engine off (which of course, did nothing so I had to manually choke it to kill it).
4) When i pull up the wiring diagram for my actual engine (1979 80hp Mariner SR# 5386038) the picture shows the engine harness has 7 leads. However, the engine harness I pulled off the motor, which is the original one, only has six leads. And, the diagram that shows 7 leads has only six wires coming out with no white wire.

For clarity to my current set up, I have the following notes:
a) The engine is mounted on my boat with cables correctly running to the remote.
b) The remote is NOT attached to the boat. Currently, I have it back by the transom so i could be by the engine holding the hose to the water tube.
c) The battery cables are attached directly to a battery, not the selector dial.
b) I have an aluminum boat.

Question time:
- Do I have one simple solution that could fix all these issues or do I have multiple problems here?
- What does that mysterious white wire 7th pin on the external harness do if there is no 7th lead on the engine harness or no white wire coming out of the harness if i use a harness that is not listed as the correct one but matches the diagram for my engine?

Thanks all for your help and any thoughts.

4) I believe the white wire (from the boat side harness) would be for a tachometer connection.
1) To shut off the engine, you should have an orange wire from your ignition switch (pin "E" on the boat harness) that corresponds to pin 6 on the engine harness, and which connects to your switchbox (and to the mercury tilt switch, which most people disconnect). On mine, the orange wire in the boat harness would occasionally short to something and it would kill the motor even if the key was on. So I ran a fresh wire from the ignition switch to the switchbox and problem solved.
2) For the choke, gray wire ("C" connector on boat harness) corresponds to #5 wire on engine harness and should provide 12V to choke solenoid. As a test, you might try running a wire from the choke button directly to the choke solenoid (bypassing all harnesses); this will show if the solenoid is working...or maybe it's shorted (or is open).
3) no idea why you're getting zapped. you might have a grounding issue somewhere...or the keyswitch has some sort of short. I'm assuming it was a 12V shock...and not a 40k volt shock (or whatever would have come off an ignition coil).
Good Luck!

Missing wire may have been for an overheat warning.----Not all Mercury motors had that feature.-----But it was built into the wiring harness I believe.