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BF225 MIL Light always partly ON and sometimes code 41-2

N

nkarataev

New member
Hello,

I recently bought Proline 24 with BF225 and I am new to Honda motors.

I changed all lights near key switch to LED 12V because old light were bad and did not turn on at all. Now when I am turning switch on I have all 4 LED on for a couple seconds and then 2 (Pressure and Overheat) turn off and Battery and MIL are still on. But MIL is not so bright like I have some DTC code or during 2 seconds with key switch. I tried to test everything with service manual I found in the internet - but I don't have test harness to test ECM parameters. The light turned off completely when I took MIL wire off the 26-pin ECM connector. I tried another ECU and everything the same. Anybody knows is it ok or not?

And another problem is code 41-2. When I bought it I had codes 1 and 41-2, I changed HO2S with aftermarket, the old one was burned. The first 2 starts I had no errors. After a while I had the same codes, but only when start cold motor, when I start motor and accelerate a bit in 1-2 secs - no errors.
I changed sparks plugs, HO2S again, replace high pressure filter and o-ring (previous was leaking) and change low pressure fuel line (it leaks too). I've tried to drain VST, but screw head is rusted and stripped and I don't have idea how to remove it. Any ideas on this issue?

Thank you for your help and such a good community!
 
What year is the engine, or what are the first 5 numbers in the serial number?

Battery light will stay on until engine is running. The green oil pressure light should come on when the engine is running.

Here is a list of the various alarm/light combinations to help you diagnose the problem. View attachment BF 225 Alarms.pdf

Did the MIL light go off after you changed the HO2 sensor?

Here is the correct procedure for pulling fault codes: View attachment Procedure for Getting Fault Codes.pdf

Here is what the fault codes mean: View attachment MIL Fault Codes Scanned.pdf Note that there is no code 42.

As for the drain screw for draining the VST - soak it in PB Blaster several times, and use a 10" flat blade screwdriver fitted in the slot and tap it a punch of times. Repeat. If you can get an impact driver down in there, use that. If none of that works, you will need to remove the VST and drill out the screw, and re-tap it.
 
chawk_man said:
What year is the engine, or what are the first 5 numbers in the serial number?

Battery light will stay on until engine is running. The green oil pressure light should come on when the engine is running.

Here is a list of the various alarm/light combinations to help you diagnose the problem. View attachment 28865

Did the MIL light go off after you changed the HO2 sensor?

Here is the correct procedure for pulling fault codes: View attachment 28866

Here is what the fault codes mean: View attachment 28867 Note that there is no code 42.

As for the drain screw for draining the VST - soak it in PB Blaster several times, and use a 10" flat blade screwdriver fitted in the slot and tap it a punch of times. Repeat. If you can get an impact driver down in there, use that. If none of that works, you will need to remove the VST and drill out the screw, and re-tap it.
Click to expand...

Thank you for reply.

Serial number is BAHJ-13000126, so I suppose it's 2005.

MIL go off partly. It looks like dimmed light, but still on. I've got a video - https://youtube.com/shorts/vgfGyJV5ebs?feature=share

The code number is 41.

Also I mentioned a lot of oil in left bottom spark plug tube when I changed spark plugs.

Thank you.
 
As for the HO2 sensor. You may want to check the connector and see if you get 12 volts across the black and green wires when the key switch is on. If not, check your fuses - especially #5. Note that the two white wires from the HO2 sensor are the signal wires.

Also, check for continuity across the black and green wires to the HO2 sensor itself. If that fails, then the heater circuit has failed.

As for the dimmed MIL light, I don't know what could be causing that. Obviously, you have voltage bleeding over to that circuit. I would try pulling the harness plug where it plugs into the engine and thoroughly clean and inspect all of the connector pins. If that doesn't help, then pull the connectors to the key switch assembly and thoroughly clean and inspect them. Pay special attention to the 3-prong connector and the red/blue wire. You may want to test for voltage at the red/blue wire with the engine running. Here is a diagram of the setup. This is for dual engines, but you can figure it out for a single engine.

View attachment Electrical Diagram Honda Digital Gauges Dual engines.pdf
 
Thank you for your answer.

So the problem with MIL was in the harness & key switch panel. I've ordered the new one panel and now everything is ok.

I measured voltage on HO2S wires and it's 13.2V. Also checked continuity across sensor. Also I mentioned that I have alarm only when motor was off for a sometime. There is no alarm if I stop and started it immediately after sound appeared. I have aftermarket sensor - may be this is the reason.

Do you know Amperage or Voltage of the good sensor in Dr.H?

Thank you.
 
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