Logo

Problems with Yamaha outboard

Last time I boated it would sometimes be touch and go with power. When I got home I upgraded to a c227 filter and also put in brand new spark plugs. Next time I'm out it starts but wont stay on. Checked the fuel lines and I do think some water was getting in there before but not with the new filter. I live in rural Alaska and the only mechanic in town thinks it could be the carburetor. What do y'all think?
 
If the problem occurred after the c227 filter was added I might want to remove that filter and see what happens.

If the filter is not causing the problem then I would tend to agree with your mechanic. The carburetors on the F40B model are known to be very sensitive to any debris within. They have to be completely cleaned. Usually in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. Then the holes and passageways have to be verified as being free and clear. Particularly the accelerator pump circuitry.

Some folks have had to install larger jets to get the motor to run well.
 
Regards!





I have a 1992 Yamaha 60hp 3 cylinder 2 stroke. I have a problem with cold start. My question is, how does the pump of this type work? When I push the ignition key and turn it, I hear a clicking sound from the engine compartment, but I don't know what the clicking sound is. This type does not have butterfly valves that block the air on the carburetor. How is enrichment done in this case? According to the exploded view, there should be a small switch called "prime start" on the middle carburetor that moves a needle, I'm missing it. Could someone provide information on this? Thanks in advance!
 
Hi,
My boat engine is a 1992 Yamaha, 60 HP, I bought it not long ago. There are problems with cold start. Prime-Start system and oil injector. The engine ID is 60F EMO, 6H2-L, 500850 (B=1992). It starts with difficulty when cold and when it starts it stops after 1-2 minutes, then I restart it and it works. It starts very well when warm. What are the two pipes on the Prime-Start system? One thinner and one thick. Both go to the crankcase. Carburetors are clean, spark plugs are new.
Should the CDI box pointer be on the first line when idling? The CDI box on this model is very interesting. I couldn't find anything like it anywhere. According to its manual, which I found online, the distance of the CDI indicator rod is 120mm, but this is impossible, because it is at least 128mm fully wound. I set it so the throttle is just touching the roller so the CDI pointer is on the first line. This is correct? Thank You!
 
Hi,
My boat engine is a 1992 Yamaha, 60 HP, I bought it not long ago. There are problems with cold start. Prime-Start system and oil injector. The engine ID is 60F EMO, 6H2-L, 500850 (B=1992). It starts with difficulty when cold and when it starts it stops after 1-2 minutes, then I restart it and it works. It starts very well when warm. What are the two pipes on the Prime-Start system? One thinner and one thick. Both go to the crankcase. Carburetors are clean, spark plugs are new.
Should the CDI box pointer be on the first line when idling? The CDI box on this model is very interesting. I couldn't find anything like it anywhere. According to its manual, which I found online, the distance of the CDI indicator rod is 120mm, but this is impossible, because it is at least 128mm fully wound. I set it so the throttle is just touching the roller so the CDI pointer is on the first line. This is correct? Thank You!

It’s a 30 year old engine. I would strongly suggest you get a genuine Yamaha service manual. The manual will pay for itself just with the maintenance, never mind other issues that will come up.
 
Hi! Thank you for your answers!
I have attached some photos and a video. With the video, I show you how I adjusted the gas and the firing rods. When the CDI indicator is on the first line, the gas pedal is just touching the roller. Is this setting correct? I also attached the manual I found online. But with this ignition setup it looks different than it does on my boat engine. I also don't understand why the pipe only goes from the middle carburetor to the crankcase. Is it only in the middle throat that there is thickening?
 
Last edited:
BOSCOE! You are super! This is it! That's exactly what it looks like! I looked for these dimensions and could not find such a description anywhere, only a similar one. Thank You very much!
 
Do you have the full description of this type? If I didn't offend you, I would buy it from you. I would have gotten a description of this type before, but I couldn't find one, only a similar one, but not this one. If I keep the 129 and 58 mm shown in the drawing, the CDI pointer is not exactly on the first line, but a little higher, because the place where the gas bowden is connected hits the crankcase. I guess such a small difference is not a problem. The throttle lever is currently about 1mm from the roller.
 
Thank you for your help so far!
I have one more question. Is it possible that the top two of the 3 carburetors need a #140 main jet and the bottom carburetor needs a #145? Because that's what the description I was able to get says. Because I need to replace the main jets because they were in a very bad condition.
I only found a description in the link below.

Did you ever get an answer to your question about the size of the main jets?

 
Thanks for the diagram, now I'm sure of the size of the nozzles. I bought this engine not long ago and it turned out that it was in a rather neglected condition, I have already replaced many things on it and I am only struggling with one problem. The speed fluctuates at idle, and stops with a big sneeze when cold. The rpm also fluctuates when warm, but then it doesn't stop. It's like sometimes there is no spark, but when using the stroboscope light and looking at each cylinder, the light flashes at a constant speed, the spark doesn't seem to stop, but the idle still fluctuates a lot. I managed to set the ignition timing. The idle speed is now 800-820rpm, then the timing is ATDC 7°. Starts immediately both cold and hot. What is still waiting to be replaced is the rectifier, the lighting coil and the charging coil, I am still waiting for their arrival. I don't know if the crankshaft encoder and pulse coil could be a problem?
 
Greetings gentlemen!
In one of the CDI troubleshooting documentation, I found the following text for the 60 hp YAMAHA type engine:

"NOTE: The #2 Cylinder is triggered by the ignition pack, it is normal for it to have no fire at cranking or idling. All cylinders should fire at 1500 RPM."

And the funny thing is that the official book also says that the ignition voltage for cylinder #2 should be 0V below 1500 rpm.
Now I'm totally confused. For weeks, I have been struggling with the fact that only 1 cylinder runs when cold and the idle fluctuates even when warm. And now I'm reading that cylinder #2 won't run at idle and below 1500 rpm? Is this really so? How could this be? So the gas just pours into cylinder #2 without burning?
 
It's difficult to diagnose the problem without being there to observe it, but it is possible that your mechanic's suggestion about the carburetor is correct. Some other possible causes for your issue could be a clogged fuel system, a malfunctioning ignition system, or issues with the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator.


It would be best to have a professional take a look at your boat, as it can be dangerous to diagnose and fix these problems on your own. They can perform further tests and give a more accurate diagnosis.
 
Back
Top