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2002 200 no pee, running hot

Salvador

New member
I have new to me 2002 twin 200's. ran them a few times recently and had no issues. Had them in large tub recently, ran the port no problem. started the starboard, no pee. Hooked up muffs and it peed, but water felt hot, and noticed a little dripping right behind the pee tube. Didn't run it too long so no alarms, but the motor felt really hot. Hooked up the hose to the flush line, had water peeing, and coming out through prop exhaust. Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
 
Hi,
Do you know when the last waterpump or thermostat service was performed? Those are the areas I would be looking into for something like this.
Good luck.
 
Yes, the pee bypass could have a blockage, but I think your instinct to not run it to the point of oveeheat and an alarm is a good way to approach this.

"New to me" outboards, in many instances, have sat for long periods until purchased. Just sitting can take a toll on water pump vanes and thermostats. So, if you think it is getting hot, going the "safe route" and checking it out is the best way to roll.

And, you can bet that, if the stbd has a cooling issue, it won't be long before the port will have one too.

I wouldn't run a new to me outboard without servicing the waterpump and replacing the t-stats as well as changing the engine oil and filter, the gearcase oil, service the water separator and clean the VST.

I know it's a lot but it's just the cost of ownership on these big V-6 outboards. And it's the best way to avoid calling SeaTow in the near future.

It's just my opinion.

Salvador, you may want to get an infrared thermometer to check the head and block temps as you try to figure this out. Yes! Clean the tell-tale bypass and see if it starts peeing again but trust that instinct of yours and proceed with caution.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Going to change the water pump and thermos. Im guessing I have good water pressure that is pushing the water into the impeller allowing it to pump on muffs. Ordered a laser thermometer from Amazon anyway 13 bucks.
 
Just remember, if you find anything "hinky" with the pump or the tstats, it's probably the same or close on the other engine.

Also, since you're getting an infrared thermo tool, keep in mind that the exhaust manifold temps on these is something to be aware of because they burn so much fuel to make all that power.

I'm not the "resident expert" on this forum ( not even close) that knows these big outboards like some others do so I don't have any data or SI to share with you about what to look for. Hopefully someone that does will try to help you out with some info.

Barring that, I sincerely hope you have, or will get, a genuine shop manual if you plan to do your own maintenance. The knock off manuals like Selock , Haynes, Clymer and others are cheaper but typically contain enough instructional errors and bad specifications to get you going in the wrong direction. They're just not worth the money in my opinion.

Here's the link to the Honda Publications authorized manuals:

https://publications.powerequipment...op-manuals-high-power--115-250-hp--3-body-01a

Expensive? Yes! But worth EVERY PENNY when you need one!

There are even some free things you can find there that might help you maintain your outboards.

Good luck.
 
Salvador, I have found that you need a lot of water pressure to run the 200 on muffs, even if water is coming out the telltale. Flushing in a tank is preferred. Also the telltale can become blocked by salt crystals, etc. Just the other day my tell tale was anemic (right after I installed a new water pump). I keep a little piece of weed whacker string on board. It worked like a charm to clear the blockage. I would do exactly what JGMO suggested. And don’t just replace the impeller, do the whole water pump. It is worth the peace of mind. I replace my water pump every 100 hours whether it needs it or not. Also, these motors are meant to run pretty hot. Mine has been running around 200 degrees at cruising speed, overheat alarm does not go off…
 
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