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1969 33hp Johnson 33R69A Gear Case Gaskets

M

mazdog

Member
I have recently acquired a 69 33 hp outboard and noticed the motor was getting way to hot.
I took off the gear case and found a broken impeller on the water pump.
When taking the gear case off and the water pump parts off the gear case the owner(s) had used gasket sealer/maker on everything.
Is that needed are there gaskets the blow-up/diagrams don't show?
Any input is greatly appr3eciated, this motor is exactly my age.
 
racerone said:
No gasket needed.----Just a thin smear of sealant.-----Did you find all the impeller pieces ?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response

I do believe so, someone answered my email on what impeller I need.

Do I use the sealant like the block sealer used on snowmobile crank cases, it doesn't ever harden and on all the water pump parts.

This guy had it under the bottom plate, impeller housing and the gear casing.
 
What ??-----Compression test can be done cold.----No need to run the motor at all.----No need for a sealer on the pump either, other than perhaps a thin smear.-----Note ,---I started working at a boat shop BEFORE your motor was made.
 
Dude that is awesome. I like talking to a guy that knows his stuff.
I wasn't sure if with the lower gear case off i move something that needs to lined back up with the case when reassembling it.

Did you ever have to work on this old model?
Where do you live?
 
Both cylinders are the same compression......right at 90.
Hope that's good. I think this water impeller dried out over the winter time, I hope
 
Good Morning Racerone
I got my parts in and ready to reinstall
I just wanted to make clear, that I should use a small/slight amount of permatex on the plate, housing and the case its self? Or use like a monoseal? or?
Are you in Florida?
 
Sealant UNDER the plate is recommended but not absolutely necessary if all parts are clean (which they should be anyway). BTW, I started my motors career in 1954.
 
By chance have you guys ever seen this boat? Tide Craft 1973 Springfield model

I would like the two gauges to work, but I don't really know where to hook them up at.
The speedometer is vacuum and the tach has two wires.

Should this boat be stick steer or should I put a steering wheel on it?

I was trying to upload some pics, but i can't figure out how to.
 
Speedometers work on water pressure. A forward-facing "pitot tube" at the transom senses the water pressure as the boat moves through the water. Plastic tubing carries that water to the speedometer, which actually is nothing but a glorified pressure gauge.

We don't know what kind of tachometer you have.

Your pictures may be too large to load.
 
Replaced the impeller and I think it still get to hot. I plan on taking it apart again to look over things.
Not sure where to look to see if water is spitting out while the motor is running.
Does the motor need to be in forward gear to get the water pump to pump?
 
Water pump works when the motor starts.-----Water in your test bucket must be 6" above the impeller.-----Did the water tube come out with the lower unit ?----If so , did you install it into the exhaust housing first ??
 
The exhaust tube is brass and cut on an angle. I installed that into the grommet and I did add a small amount of lube to make sure it didn't drag on the tube.
 
The water supply tube from pump to engine is brass / copper.------It must be installed into the exhaust housing FIRST.----Water in your test bucket must be 6" above the impeller !----Answering the questions will help just YOU.
 
The water supply tube never came out of the exhaust housing...So I put the tube in the grommet when sliding the gear box upward.
is there any way that I got the impeller put on wrong?
 
Sorry-----I think it is impossible to assemble those pumps so that they do not work.----Is the water in your test bucket 6" above the impeller , yes or no.-----The driveshaft splines at the top of the shaft are good ??---You used factory parts or amazon specials
 
I will recheck the water level in the bucket. I have a large trash can that I am using. and I fill it all the way up, but I need top make sure it is the 6 inches required above the impeller.

The splines look good and I got the parts of of this website marineengine.com

I thought maybe I could have put the bends in the impeller into the housing going the wrong way or something like that.
 
On that motor, if you install the impeller vanes backwards, they will flip themselves over to the right way when you start it.
 
Ok, thank you for that, I was wondering if that would happen.

I took it all back apart and the only question I have now is the housing plate, should it be perfectly flat?
Mine has two small indents around the edge but not where the impeller rides on it. They seem factory, and if they are I am ready to reassemble and try it again making sure the water level is 6 inches above the impeller itself.

Other than that I really don't get it.
 
The old one did have a broke off piece and I did find that.

I ordered and received a new impeller and installed it. The motor still got warmer/hot , I shut her down after reaching 205 degrees.
I am using the old housing plate and housing, with the new impeller, it matches the old one exactly (except the broken arm piece)
 
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