04 Johnson 175hp lower unit swap which year model donors?

04 Johnson 175hp lower unit swap which year model donors?
2004 Johnson 175HP model J175PLSRB


I’d like to change my orginal 20” shaft to a 25” actuely I like a 30” not sure if that’s possible.
What year model engines can be used for a 20” to 25” shaft? The fitch engines appear to be the same.

I do know the are shaft extension kits but there kindof pricy, hopping to find a used engine w/ blow power head & good hydraulics.
I've read that the 150hp is the same lower unit. I believe this engine was also made in 200 &225HP which mite be the same lower unit.

the image I post pictured left I believe is a fitch engine and it appears the same.

Objective is to raise the engine bracket up above the waterline.

Thanks for advice.
View attachment 2001johnson150hp 25 inch.doc

Same unit just swap drive and shift shaft to looonger

what all year models & HP sizes are interchangeable? to my 2004 175hp model J175PLSRB

from what I understand these old fitch engine w/ blown power head are extremely inexpensive if thats possible in boatworld.
thanks for advice

I believe you're safe with any 150/175 midsection and LU between '94 and '04. Note, the shift rod in the FICHT engines is 1/2" too long for a carbureted motor. I know from experience!!! My '96 E150 has a Lightning gearcase that was not original. When I first got the boat I had shifting problems and finally discovered someone had swapped a gearcase from a FICHT onto my Intruder which resulted in misalignment. Once I bought a shift rod correct for a Carb motor I was in good shape.

Since you're using this for offshore running I'd suggest a Magnum gearcase instead of a Lightning. The lightning is okay, but the Magnum is more durable.

KJ

my first image above is a 01 which I assume must be the last of the fitch.

I see the decals for the 02-06 so I assume there all carbed. looper engines. I believe evinrude was sold to BRP and they restyled the 07 model.
so 94-01 would require a 1/2" longer shift rod what about the drive shaft seams like it would need lengthening also?

is the Magnum gearcase noticeably larger? different shape or color? like how would I tell the difference?
thanks Kevin for the tips.

The looper shift rod is 1/2" shorter than the FICHT. I've forgotten a lot of the FICHT history, but I think in '97-'98 FICHT 150 and 175 were marketed as both Evinrude and Johnson. They also sold both johnson & evinrude looper 150/175 at the same time. From '99-'06 only the Johnson outboards were loopers (except for the 4-strokes) and only Evinrude were FICHT RAM outboards from '99-'06 until the Etec was introduced in '07. So, I'll re-phrase my original statement, a FICHT or looper lower unit from '94 to '06 will likely fit your engine.

The lightning gearcase is more pointed and has a speedometer pickup in the nose. The magnum gearcase is more rounded on the nosecone.

KJ

OK excellent info. so the 94-06 will look cosmetically the same on the outside?

this carbed looper engine is a serious fuel hog are the fuel injected fitchs & Etec (not that I'd want a etec unless it's emm sucking up sand & overheat problem was resolved) more fuel effieint?
thanks again Kevin

TheBrain said:

OK excellent info. so the 94-06 will look cosmetically the same on the outside?

this carbed looper engine is a serious fuel hog are the fuel injected fitchs & Etec (not that I'd want a etec unless it's emm sucking up sand & overheat problem was resolved) more fuel effieint?
thanks again Kevin

Click to expand...

Sorry I didn't see your Etec question in your reply.

The dark blue color of the LU from '94-'06 will look about the same. I think most of the Johnson looper engines that continued from '01 until '05 were white, but I could be wrong there.

You are correct, the carbureted Looper engines are massive fuel pigs. Mine runs like a top, but it certainly drinks the gas. I wouldn't recommend a FICHT of any variety. Yes, they were improved from '02-'06 when they were re-branded FICHT RAM after the BRP takeover, but there is very little support for them. If you want to go with a DI engine you need to be looking for an Etec ('07 and newer). Any of the G1 engines would be a direct fit with your wiring harness and System Check gauges. Even your VRO oil tank is directly compatible with these engines. With an Etec you'll see vastly improved fuel economy (at least 30%, maybe close to double) and a much cleaner exhaust. Also, if the Etec is programmed for XD100 oil you'll use very little oil and will go through multiple tanks of fuel before needing to fill up.

And they are kaput out of business...stay away from Junkrude DI engines.

kevinj said:

DI engine you need to be looking for an Etec ('07 and newer). Any of the G1 engines would be a direct fit with your wiring harness and System Check gauges. Even your VRO oil tank is directly compatible with these engines. With an Etec you'll see vastly improved fuel economy (at least 30%, maybe close to double) and a much cleaner exhaust. Also, if the Etec is programmed for XD100 oil you'll use very little oil and will go through multiple tanks of fuel before needing to fill up.

Click to expand...

Kevin I'm finding out the new 022 suzuki's df140bg drive by wire the wire harness alone is like $1800. so I'm considering all alternatives. main objective is to have the proper sized XL 25" shaft an better fuel milage.
from what I've read about the G1 e-tecs there emm (computer)cooling tubes get clogged w/ sand an the emm gets over heated an destroys itself? maybe you could explain the issue the first gens have.

can sellers rollback the hours on the G1 e-tecs?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:fcc05dcc-bfb8-4389-a61e-5e5e49ab1a6b

a e-tec repower reusing my wire harness/gauge/binnacle/ control cables , hydrolic steering an prop.sure would easier.
thanks

JMO...stay away as no dealer will work on them, new parts getting harder to find , only support is on Forums. Bite the bullet and get the Zuki, you will be way happier.

faztbullet said:

JMO...stay away as no dealer will work on them, new parts getting harder to find , only support is on Forums. Bite the bullet and get the Zuki, you will be way happier.

Click to expand...

I'm finding out the zukes wire harness alone is well over $2400. (it's actuelly 2 wire harness's) binnacle is expensive to for the none mechanical. not sure if drive by wire is worth it.


ignition isn't part of the binacal more $ https://suzukioutboardmarine.com/product/37100-98l10-vertical-ignition-panel-assy/

gauge more $ https://suzukioutboardmarine.com/product/34011-96l13-suzuki-smg4-gauge-display/

the engine is around $9K then the dealer has to program the EMM. an you still don't get a prop.

these prices are S.Florida Largo prices which are proballey 30% higher than say a big market place like Atlanta. important thing is I have the PN

my plan is to install wireharness binacal ect then let dealer hang the engine an program.

I will be checking into prices for a mechanical an report back. thanks for talking me out of the e-tecs.

reguardless of what engine I get which includes extending the shaft on current engine

the engine bracket needs to moved higher bc of the though hulls below the waterline issue.