Honda 225 limp mode

what would make a engine go into limp mode at 3000rms?

check engine light comes on and it beeps, beeps beeps.

I put it in neutral and crank it back up and it runs fine for a few minutes, then limp mode again.

she will run all day at 27mph with no issues. craziest thing

ive got new thermostats, new plugs, new water pump, oil change.

maybe a coil over is bad.

Limp mode is 1800 rpm on these engines. Only two things put it in LIMP Modes - overheat, which will put it in LIMP mode, then shut it down in 20 seconds if temp does not go back into spec. The other is low oil pressure, which will allow the engine to continue to run in LIMP mode.

I suspect that you are overheating based on your description. If you have the four-light key-switch panel, then you will have a red "overheat" light which should come on if you are overheating. You should also have a green "oil pressure" light, which will go off if you have low oil pressure.

If neither occurs, pull codes. Here is the procedure: View attachment Procedure for Getting Fault Codes.pdf

Here is what the codes mean: View attachment MIL Fault Codes Scanned.pdf

Best procedure is to pull codes, write them down, then clear codes. Run the engine again until it alarms, then see what new codes have appeared.

Note that sometimes even new thermostats will fail, so check those to be sure they open up when placed in a heated pan of water. They should start to open at 130 degrees and be fully open at 160 degrees. Fully open is only 3 mm.

Also, make sure that all the lights on your key switch panel are operating. All will come on briefly when you first turn on the key switch.

seems like the engine just cuts off at the beep. i could be wrong. but the green light doesn't stay on.

i have 4 lights and they all work. I believe the top left red light comes on when it happens.

Also its seems to know my depth finder out.

Ill check the thermostats.

ty!

Expand on your statement: "seems like the engine just cuts off at the beep." More detail.

i've got a set of twin 225's

When on plane around 3000 rpm or 3500 the starboard engine will shut down, the check engine light comes on and the green light goes off.
i believe the top left red light comes on as well. i think that is over heat light.

i've got pretty good at putting it into neutral and cracking it back, this way i don't fall off of plane. but the other day it shutdown for 1 or 2 seconds, i went for the key switch and it jumped back to full plane. craziest thing. it has only done that once.

When the engine cuts out it will turn off my depth finder.

I ran the boat this evening. she ran at WOT for about 5 minutes, then went into limp mode.

the motor stayed running, but all lights shut off. no check engine light, oil or water light. no codes. just a long consistent beep until i turned the key off.

When i crank the engine it has lights, so the lights aren't broke.

I replaced the thermostats again today.

Ill make sure in the morning that the oil is full and run it again.

If the engine is still running, even at idle, and all four lights on the key switch are off, (including the green oil-pressure light) that's an indication of low oil pressure.

Have a professional check it and have that professional check the end play in the crank shaft thrust bearing. Maximum play = 0.0186 inches or 0.4 mm. You need a special instrument to measure it. If thrust washer play is out of spec, it will damage the oil pump, which can destroy the engine.

These SN's had warranties extended to 7 years because of the thrust washer problem:
BF225 BAGJ 1600528 - 1800666
BF225 BAHJ 1600176 - 1800226

The following was posted by Ian6766 a while back:

"To check pressure, remove the large plug with a square drive hole situated below the VTEC solenoid and either fit special adaptor 07PK-ZY3-0100 or order another plug 90081 ZV5 010 and drill and tap to suit a mechanical gauge or electrical sender with a dash mounted gauge.
Oil pressure should be 17-26 psi at idle and max 90psi above 2000rpm."

Well, i haven't checked if the thrust washer play is out of spec yet, but i did check the compression on all cylinders. i noticed oil leaking, possibly at the bottom of the block.

Cmpression on cylinders below
#1-205
#2-170
#3-195
#4-200
#5-190
#6-180

I find it odd that starboard engine battery volts read 13 volts. Port says 14 volts, is that normal?

# 2 is out of spec, obviously.

What did the plugs look like when you pulled them for the compression test? If firing correctly, they should have all had a light chocolate brown coating. Was the #2 plug different? Was there oil in any of the plug sockets?

If you are reading the voltage from the ECU, it is normally around 13.4 V +/-. If you have separate cranking batteries for each motor, take your reading directly from the battery before you start the engine, then again when the engines are running. When not running, you should read about 12 volts. When running, you should read around 13.8 to 14 volts.