BF225A4 - Cranking but not Starting

My engines were removed from my boat for a few months over the winter as I had some transom work done. The engines were re-rigged after the transom repairs were complete and now one will crank, but will not start.

I confirmed I have spark. My problem is fuel. My fuel pump does not turn on when the key is turned. After testing with a power probe, my fuel pump is not receiving power. The fuse tests out. The main harness connection appears clean.

My thinking is that the problem was created in the re-rigging process and not much goes into that. The main harness, the battery leads, and the throttle and shift cables. Since the main harness and battery leads all appear fine, could the shift cables out of adjustment affect the neutral safety switch and cause this issue? I always thought the neutral safety switch prevented cranking all together, but I'm not totally sure how it functions--does the neutral safety switch it prevent fuel flow or spark or just prevent the starter from engaging?

Okay, so after some experimentation, I think my early theory on the neutral safety switch was wrong. Neutral safety switch prevents cranking altogether.

I hooked up Dr. H, and did the Fuel pump test. Fuel relay clicks, but pump does not turn on. I started running through the troubleshooting guide in the shop manual. No power to pump, so I'm to the main relay troubleshooting. I don't have the test harness to fully test it, so I may just swap the main relay over from my other motor.

I replaced my other main relay last year after completely different symptoms. So that's a quick swap when I get back to the boat.

Sounds like you are on the right track with the main relay. Are you absolutely sure you do not have a blown fuse? Remove and check the continuity of each one.

There is a main relay continuity test you can do as well. When you trigger the fuel relay with Dr H you should get continuity between the 12v supply and the output pin for the fuel pump. This can confirm if the relay is working. I would also put 12v direct into the fuel pump just to confirm it functions.

Thank you all. Good info. I got it fixed, and it was easy. The spade connectors in the fuse block got pushed back so were not making contact with one side of each of the number 2 and number 3 fuses.

After trying a whole lot of nonsense, changing main relay, ecu, wiring harness, etc., and confirming engine would run when applying 12 volts directly to the pump, I went back to basics. Confirmed each fuse was working while in the fuse block, but then followed chawks advice of removing all fuses and testing individually. With all fuses out I noticed the connectors inside the fuse block had been pushed back into the fuse block. I used a pick and pulled them back out carefully, plugged fuses back in, and it all kicked off fine.

Apparently when re-rigging, the shop didn't connect the Fuel line tight so was sucking air and it wouldn't start. They started pulling fuses, and the spade terminals likely got messed up then.

Glad you got it fixed. However, that is the first I've heard of the fuse block spade connectors being pushed in like that on these engines. Live and learn, I guess. Must have been some ham-handed mechanics.