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Does this sound like a stuck carb float

S

SaltyScot

Regular Contributor
Motor is a 1985 30hp Evinrude. I just rebuilt the carb and took it out a couple times and it ran great. Then the idle seemed to oscillate up and down a little bit and then died on me. In the middle of the river, of course. So now in the tank it will start up and then the rpm will surge up and then cut out without any change in throttle input. Is that the result of the float stuck open and cutting out without the corresponding timing advance? Thanks.

Stephen
 
If the float was stuck open, it would flood gas out. Do you need to choke it in order to restart it? Probably gotta revisit your carb overhaul job. Make sure the fuel pump is clean and producing fuel for you. Can check this by removing the line to carb at the pump, then add a longer hose off the pump, and spin over the motor to see that it flows out into a bottle.
 
Thanks Tim. I do not need to choke it to restart it. And I did try replacing the fuel pump which didn't change the condition any.
 
You bet, Salty. Love these motors. Gotta be something got back into the carb....or maybe you missed something, ha! Get those magnifiers on, my friend.
 
I should mention that the low speed adjustment needle was quite loose in the threads so i put some teflon tape on the threads to snug it up. It was basically loose enough to adjust itself with vibrations. Of course when you screw it in and back it out a turn and a half it shreds the tape a little and maybe some of the tape got inside the carb?

Also, it's a brand new hose and tank that work great on my Bayliner, which I tested after this incident.

This 30hp has a new starter, starter solenoid, carb kit, ignition coils, CDI, and fuel pump. It probably sat for many years, but ran very well on two outings before the this "Paddling incident". :rolleyes:
 
I don't understand why folks replace some of this reliable stuff.-----Just because it is 30 years old does not justify replacement.
 
There is a little insert that goes into the needle port. They are cheap. They hold the needle firmly. If you can't find one, I'll drop one in the mail for you.
Racer, you certainly must know the problem....we are in a world of throw away stuff now, engineered to last JUST long enough so that the consumer kinda feels he got an "okay" deal. For me, perhaps....a non conformist....I embrace solid engineering, made to last a lifetime. Labor is so very costly, parts may be harder to find on some models, and mankind has evolved in a way that many skills are being lost....in favor of just paying somebody else to do the work. He!!, Example: When I grew up....everybody mowed their OWN lawn!
 
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racerone said:
I don't understand why folks replace some of this reliable stuff.-----Just because it is 30 years old does not justify replacement.
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Well, when i got it, it was a work in progress. I had to put a starter solenoid and carb kit on it just to start it. Then i swapped out the fuel pump to try to resolve this problem. The other stuff was done by the previous owner.

Hey, I'm with you racer. I'm 52 and ain't ready to be replaced yet. 😉
 
timguy said:
There is a little insert that goes into the needle port. They are cheap. They hold the needle firmly. If you can't find one, I'll drop one in the mail for you.
Racer, you certainly must know the problem....we are in a world of throw away stuff now, engineered to last JUST long enough so that the consumer kinda feels he got an "okay" deal. For me, perhaps....a non conformist....I embrace solid engineering, made to last a lifetime. Labor is so very costly, parts may be harder to find on some models, and mankind has evolved in a way that many skills are being lost....in favor of just paying somebody else to do the work. He!!, Example: When I grew up....everybody mowed their OWN lawn!
Click to expand...

I hear that. Most of the parts made today are designed to last a 1/10 as long as the well-engineered stuff from decades ago.

I'll message you about that insert. Thanks again.
 
I replaced that insert and it started up and idled briefly(normally), but then the skies opened up and I shut it down and ran inside like a chicken. This weekend I will be able to test it more.
 
Ha! Yup chickens don't like to get stuck in the rain, their brain is the size of a pea....but they often can outsmart us! I got 30 of them, raise 'em....learn from them too.
 
So I put that insert in and now it's idling steady at 770 rpm and revs just fine. Haven't put it back on the boat yet, but all seems well. Can that insert make that much of a difference?
 
hastings2010.jpg

It's going to end up on the back of one of these Dillon tunnel-hulls. I made a hydroplane in 2020, but it wouldn't turn for crap.
 
racerone said:
Make sure you select the correct prop for the motor / boat combination.
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I'm hoping that a 10x15 does the trick. I've got a couple of those. Not much hope finding a 10x17. Otherwise it would have to be a Ron Hill chopper. And that's, of course, in a different price range.
 
Yes, the boats are designed for the OMC 31.8 cid. I won't be racing it though. They say the pre-1985 30 and 35hp are the same identical motor. Since my 30hp is 1985, doesn't that make the rating at the prop, instead of the crank?
 
I know OMC stopped making the 35hp in 1985, so that might be an indicator of when they switched the rating. I love these 30/35s. I buy all that I can find.
 
Me too, they are fantastic, run em 100:1 on Amsoil Saber, they are real Brutes, often running 2 side by side tillers for freighting. In fact I have an 84 and an 85 35/30. Appears to have same main jet. Here is our set up in NW Ontario for freighting. 18' Alumarine Boat, made in Winnipeg. Nice thing is that they are easily transported on the shoulders to our sheds for storage between trips. Up in the bush, you have to be able to handle equipment by hand. Nothing stays in plain sight while your away. It could disappear.JPEG_20200921_081340_compress85.jpg
 
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