Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Tune up for 4.3 merc

Ok so back on topic, I got the plugs in, and new wires ran, dist and rotor with new ignition sensor and coil. Went to change the t-stat sender and could not get it off without stripping the heck out of it. So before doing that, I removed the 2 bolts and removed the whole T-stat assembly. Needless to say it didn't look pretty in there. Rusty as can be expected, but not terrible considering the age. I am going to replace the thermostat and the parts that go with it at this point, probably glad I found what I did and amazing it worked at all. I did some quick searching but finding the whole housing thing does not look easy to find, so hoping I can just clean this thing up? It mostly surface rust in there, I think I can hit the internal part with a brass brush so everything new fits back in.

Which will lead to the next thing of taking off the risers and manifolds replacing gaskets and what not, thinking this Fall. Someone has done it at some point as you can tell the bolts have been removed. The T-stat housing still had the original paint on the bolt heads, pretty sure it or the stat has never been changed.

Curious any thoughts and or advice on this of what you guys have seen? And why is it that when working on a boat, it always something that leads to one thing after another and another, and that rabbit hole just keeps going. LOL
 
Well I got it cleaned up, and got all the old gasket material off which was like cemented on from age. I need to get a small wire wheel to hit the interior part where the O-ring goes and that sleeve thing above the t-stat. I also got both sensors out, I didn't even see the I think alarm sensor? So I need to get one of those. The temp sender was in like an ape wrenched down, but I got it out.

I am hoping the local LFS has what I need so will see on Monday. Any thoughts or insight is always welcome! Thanks, Jim

On a side note, by the distributor, there were 3 wires that I think came apart. one purple with a sq connector on the end, a black one I think is spliced to that one a ways down. Then one single black that had electrical tape wrapped around the end, like the other black/purple wire so I am assuming they were all tied together. Both black wires have small eye connectors on the end. I am assuming they have to do something with that oil switch thing on the port side of the engine. Need to investigate that when I get a chance.
 
1. If you have two "Senders" installed,

one is a sender to gauge the other is a switch for alarm.

On schematic it identifies the color wire for each. Tan with blue stripe is the ALARM temp switch This is not a sender it is a on/off switch

Note: The threads do NOT get any sealer. The threaded section of both are the ground path.

As far as loose wires, This is common on engine wire harness. A picture of them would help identify better.

Your description is not good on the wires.......................


Black and purple should not be tied together.

Purple is Ignition on/run and is battery voltage +

Black is ground -

this needs clarification before any advise can be given...
 
Sorry I meant to say which one and spaced it. It is the Design I housing. I do know which wires go where on the sensors and thanks for the tip on the sealer, as I was thinking of using Teflon tape when I re-install them. Not sure tape, affects ground or not, assuming so?

Standard Cooling System(Design I) for Mercruiser (4.3l / 4.3lx Alpha One Engine (262 Cid) Gen Ii) Engine (marineengine.com)

As for the black and purple wire, I did not look at them in detail as to where they run. I try and focus on one thing then the next, otherwise I just get sidetracked. Not much I can do with the t-stat till I get parts so hoping to get a look at the wires today. To me they looked like they were once all taped together somehow just not sure how and or why.

On that wiring schematic, I think one of the wires runs to that little micro switch thing just below the water temp sender pic in the schematic picture. I remember seeing that, which on this engine is attached I believe to on or just forward of the port riser if I am facing aft, if that makes sense? Like I said I need to look at it better and follow the wires.

Thank you for the reply! Jim
 
Last edited:
kghost said:
"""""""" Not sure tape, affects ground or not, assuming so? """"""""""

Note: The threads do NOT get any sealer. The threaded section of both are the ground path.
Click to expand...


1st off. While I do appreciate the advice, that was not needed. I am almost 60 not 12.

2nd "AND THANKS FOR THE "TIP" on the sealer, as I was "THINKING" of using Teflon tape when I re-install them"

3rd "Not sure tape, affects ground or not, assuming so? < This was more of a question, and not saying I was actually going to use it. Sorry if you read that wrong.
 
Last edited:
Quick update. I got all the tune up stuff in there. New plugs, wires, coil, dist and rotor and anything associated with a tune up. New T-stat, senders everything pretty much previously mentioned.

Took it to my guy, for the once over. Good news the engine is running excellent, purrs like a kitten. Bad news, the gimbal housing is cracked, that in fact is really bad news. It is on the port side, where the zerk fitting is at what I would call a hinge point, I guess? One fitting on each side. Either way it means pulling everything out and off, and finding a used housing which he has. He is guesstimating 3500 to 5 grand pending we don't find anything else like bad U-joints. No idea if I was the cause, kinda doubt it as I didn't hit anything in the 3 or 4 times I took it out late last Summer. What is done is done I guess. He said I was lucky it didn't come flying off under way.

Million dollar question, do I get it fixed pending anything else, like dare I say a bad transom. Which he or I don't think it is, but it could be. Or cut my losses which is not much more than time and labor, if anything some new decking, seats and carpet. He said I can sell the lower outdrive portion, the engine and trailer. 3 to 4000 for the engine, 1000 for the drive and whatever for the trailer. I hate wasting the boat, as it is in really good shape. But I could take that money saved on the repair and made from the parts sold and buy a pretty decent used boat. Or sell the whole thing as is, and disclose about the crack.

I got a guy with a 94 SeaRay 20ft bow rider, interior looks really good, from pics. I still need to see it and check for soft spots and other things of course. Only 700 hours on LX 4.3 same motor as in the current boat. Lake use only winterized and dry stored every winter. He has all the service records and what not for the past 30 years. He is asking 8 or best offer. I told him pending seeing it 6500 to 7. Used boats out here are going for crazy dollars, but so is everything else. We won't go there though. Hell I don't know, it's a "BOAT" Break out another thousand.

Thoughts??
 
Last edited:
Honestly, you don't really need any help to replace the gimbal housing. It's not a tough job. However, if it were my boat, I would look for a good used drive and just swap the whole shebang. It takes a mighty whack to crack a gimbal, and if the drive took such a hit, it may have more damage that hasn't yet revealed.
You should be able to find one in the $500-1000 price range and I wouldn't go a penny over as these are not the most desirable (4.3 engine gearing ratio) by far. You can test for moisture in the transom in two ways. One is with a moisture meter that is used by professional yacht surveyors. The other is with a drill. On the inside of the transom, drill into the core and see if the wood particles that come out of the inside are wet. If it is, you're sunk and you might as well start looking for a new ride. If it's dry, then refill the holes with thickened epoxy and be happy.
$8K for a 1994 20 footer is just beyond ridiculous unless it has been kept in a time capsule. If they get $5K for it they should have a party. I would MAYBE offer $3500 if it was super nice. Just because someone else is willing to pay stupid money for an old wheezer doesn't mean you should too.
 
o2batsea said:
Honestly, you don't really need any help to replace the gimbal housing. It's not a tough job. However, if it were my boat, I would look for a good used drive and just swap the whole shebang. It takes a mighty whack to crack a gimbal, and if the drive took such a hit, it may have more damage that hasn't yet revealed.
You should be able to find one in the $500-1000 price range and I wouldn't go a penny over as these are not the most desirable (4.3 engine gearing ratio) by far. You can test for moisture in the transom in two ways. One is with a moisture meter that is used by professional yacht surveyors. The other is with a drill. On the inside of the transom, drill into the core and see if the wood particles that come out of the inside are wet. If it is, you're sunk and you might as well start looking for a new ride. If it's dry, then refill the holes with thickened epoxy and be happy.
$8K for a 1994 20 footer is just beyond ridiculous unless it has been kept in a time capsule. If they get $5K for it they should have a party. I would MAYBE offer $3500 if it was super nice. Just because someone else is willing to pay stupid money for an old wheezer doesn't mean you should too.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the thoughts! The tough thing is, while I am mechanically inclined, I am not set up to pull an engine out of a boat. So I am at the mercy of a mechanic to do it. And I am looking at 4 to 5 grand. He has a drive I could use, and like you, he feels there could be more damage than what we are seeing. I am still wondering how it snapped, as I didn't hit anything, the guy I bought it from (my business partner) says he didn't. Just seems odd to me?

As far as a used boat prices are crazy up here in the PNW and I am not going to buy a new one. Prices seem to range from 2 to 5000 bayliners and what not. Then 6 to 9 then jump up to 12 to 18,000 pretty quick.
So do I spend 4 to 5 grand fixing this thing pending all that we find? Or take that money, plus the money I would re-coop from the engine and parts off this thing plus the tailor and keep an eye out for another decent boat? I have yet to see the one I mentioned, it is on the other side of the state in storage. He is going to bring it to this side of the mountains, so will see. Doing one or the other seems like a catch 22 no matter which way I go. Decisions, decisions...
 
Asside from a fork truck impact there is not allot of things that can cause the threaded hinge pins area to crack unless a unskilled person removed them and when reinstalling them they over tightened them is my guess.

You say you are not equipped to pull the engine? WHy?

You dont have to remove the engine from the boat, only get it far enough away to do the R&R of the transom assembly

You can rent a engine puller/cherry picker/lift.

You could rent a small back hoe and pull it with that.


This project is turning out to be a can of worms!! By the time your done, you could have bought a new boat, financed it for ten years and not have a worry in the world only running out of beer........

I looked quickly

Ebay, $600 + shipping $60 Complete outer with gimbal housing and bell housing and shift cable.... Add in renting a small back hoe for ~$300 and you around $1000.00 plus your labor.

A lot less that $3000-$5000.00

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125244757195?hash=item1d292b54cb:g:sCoAAOSwSgNiTcVm
 
Last edited:
Yes I have thought of that route as well. Just not sure I want to tackle it. And I saw that one on ebay also. How far out does the motor need to move, just not a lot of space going forward of the engine. Because if it's all unhooked I might as well get it out of the way to do the job?
 
Boat is at the mechanics. Only about 5 min from me, but I have no pics right now. He is busy de-winterizing boats for the next couple of weeks, so were on hold till I decide which route to go. While it's May here, not much lake boating yet in the PNW.
 
I will have to back over and confirm, but I cannot believe he would be pulling one over on me. That said, when I went out there I did not have my glasses on and was maybe looking at the wrong thing.
 
Sorry about your luck.----See posts #4 and #10.------Old boats can become a money pit.-----A hole in the water that you pour in vast sums on money.
 
Quick update, I got the boat back home and there is defiantly a crack on the port side gimbal housing. The Zerk fitting is gone and i can see the crack right where the zerk was, if I wiggle the lower back and forth I can see it move. If I had to guess the cast iron was fatigued at that spot. I knew it had been used and or even probably docked in salt water as there is pitting. I think it's a newer drive as well.

All that said I picked up a 93 SeaRay 200BR. 700 hours, freshwater only, 1 owner that passed away last month. His wife was selling it. He also had 30 years of service records, with nothing but the normal maintenance stored inside. He also had the original bill if sale for 18,500 and the original brochure. Asking 8 I got it for 6500, which in our market up here in the great PNW is a good price. The engine is immaculate, the interior is still very nice, 1 tear on the drivers seat. I went over every inch of the deck and it is solid, original carpet is still in good shape. The hull is solid with a few dings and dent up higher.

Probably going to sell the other for parts and or a project boat. Hopefully get 3 to 4000 for it. Guessing there will be a few cracked blocks popping up as people get their boats out if it ever warms up around here. It was pretty cold last winter. So will see..
 
JimA82 said:
Quick update, I got the boat back home and there is defiantly a crack on the port side gimbal Ring. The Zerk fitting is gone and i can see the crack right where the zerk was, if I wiggle the lower back and forth I can see it move. If I had to guess the cast iron was fatigued at that spot. I knew it had been used and or even probably docked in salt water as there is pitting. I think it's a newer drive as well.

All that said I picked up a 93 SeaRay 200BR. 700 hours, freshwater only, 1 owner that passed away last month. His wife was selling it. He also had 30 years of service records, with nothing but the normal maintenance stored inside. He also had the original bill if sale for 18,500 and the original brochure. Asking 8 I got it for 6500, which in our market up here in the great PNW is a good price. The engine is immaculate, the interior is still very nice, 1 tear on the drivers seat. I went over every inch of the deck and it is solid, original carpet is still in good shape. The hull is solid with a few dings and dent up higher.

Probably going to sell the other for parts and or a project boat. Hopefully get 3 to 4000 for it. Guessing there will be a few cracked blocks popping up as people get their boats out if it ever warms up around here. It was pretty cold last winter. So will see..
Click to expand...

Not that is matters much, but yes it was the gimbal ring not housing. My bad. That said looking at it, I cannot remove it with out yanking the engine, plan is to still try and sell it. If it doesn't maybe tinker with it this summer off and on as it goes. This "newer boat" I got is so much nicer.
 
Back
Top