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1982 johnson 60 hp

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Bugerall

New member
Hi all,
I have a 1982 Johnson 60 hp 2 cylinder
I need to remove the head. I have noticed that the head also bolts to like engine mounts.
Question : when removing the head do I need to have something to support the block,,,,, Or just don't worry about it??

I can't seem to find the tightening sequence for the bolts. Google keeps coming up with different model johnson.

Thanks to all
 
Those mounts support the cowling.------Do not worry.-----Just remove the head.-----You are removing the head for what reason ?-----Low compression ?----If so what were the values.
 
racerone said:
Those mounts support the cowling.------Do not worry.-----Just remove the head.-----You are removing the head for what reason ?-----Low compression ?----If so what were the values.
Click to expand...

Hi thanks for your help,
I'll try to make it sort.
The motor runs OK, but I noticed the motor was Very hot to touch. I went to check the alarm buzzer and could see it was missing,. If I let the motor cool and check the brown wire to see if it has grounded it has not but start the motor and run it for 3-5 mins and that wire will be grounded. That is the temperature switch doing its job.

I took the outside cover off and the thermostat is frozen open.

The water pump is new and the pee stream is strong. This is with muffs on. The area under the cover is very clean.
I don't want to take the head off but feel it may have a blockage.

I had the thermostat out and put the muffs on,, without motor running and nothing comes out the thermostat hole. But I guess that's because the motor not running.

Hope that makes sense.
 
Just take the head off.----How did the motor run for you last season ?----It is in your best interest to post the compression values.----It is jey information about the health of your motor.
 
I have not done a compression test. I would have to try and borrow a test unit.
The motor seems to have power and do not run rough, but you are right it could have compression issues
 
Take the head off.-----Inspect the cylinders.------The head is warped to some degree.-----They all are.-----Refinish head to make it flat -.-----Order new gasket.-----Then when ready , re-install with torque values posted later.
 
Do it at home with emery paper on a flat surface ( glass ) or valve grinding compound on a piece of glass.----Nothing to it.
 
Right. Irrigate with soapy water....you will get a better bite than doing it dry. So I'm assuming it's saltwater, okay? Gonna find some blockages then?
 
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timguy said:
Right. Irrigate with soapy water....you will get a better bite than doing it dry. So I'm assuming it's saltwater, okay? Gonna find some blockages then?
Click to expand...
Hi thanks for everyone's input,
I have pulled the head off and taken some photos.
It looks like in the past some one has tried to build up some of the block as it look like some one has used JB weld , you can see in the photos.
The head came off supper easy no tight bolts at all.
I think I might clean out all that filler stuff and just take my chances with a new gasket. There was no water in the piston and there has never been any evidence of water on the spark plugs.

I couldn't upload so here are drive links https://drive.google.com/file/d/12ykaKaaRBJy1OB0KAEJoydKvPLxzlF6F/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GJz07I6dwlytlgLvQKTbhFBJ0htIKdTU/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19UnXzWMEw39cmFGP-fEFVgk25FRdiocO/view?usp=sharing

Hope I upload the photos ok
What do you guys think
 
Right on, Racer. Everything looks dry too. What has been your oil mixing ratio and what kind of oil? A compression test is always your best starting point, as already was mentioned.
The attachment wouldn't give me access as my Gmail is "Geedo".
 
timguy said:
Right on, Racer. Everything looks dry too. What has been your oil mixing ratio and what kind of oil? A compression test is always your best starting point, as already was mentioned.
The attachment wouldn't give me access as my Gmail is "Geedo".
Click to expand...

Oil mix 50/1. Standard marine 2 stroke oil
 
racerone said:
To me it looks like there is overheat / scoring damage.-----I would say motor needs to come apart.
Click to expand...
What do you think about all of that jb weld that someone has put there?? Do you think that edge of the bore would seal against the gasket well enough?? I well clean that filler out and replace the gasket.
Pulling the whole motor down is not on the cards.
I will try to get it running without heating if not I will buy another motor.
 
I think that's just a water diverter, factory stuff. Scoring may be tollerable. Gotta clean out that water jacket I think. There is some deposits, perhaps, that are impeding proper cooling. I don't see motors this ugly in Northern MN. We are 1000 miles from the sea. Had a Yamaha here from Miami in 2020. It ran beautifully but couldn't keep it the proper temperature. Took off a side cover and WTF? So I used the internal parts and installed them in a local block.
 
What is that doing in there? Looks pretty solid? Certainly is diverting water, but yes, I should have punctuated with a question mark! On second look, it really could be epoxy!! On some motors there of course is a factory connection at this point.
Here's a Minnesota 55 hp, similar. Piston going bad. But look at that water jacket, eh?
 

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timguy said:
What is that doing in there? Looks pretty solid? Certainly is diverting water, but yes, I should have punctuated with a question mark! On second look, it really could be epoxy!! On some motors there of course is a factory connection at this point.
Here's a Minnesota 55 hp, similar. Piston going bad. But look at that water jacket, eh?
Click to expand...

Yes I have removed it. It was like an epoxy. They had put it there to try and fill in where the corrosion had eaten away the side of the bore. I may have to do a similar thing as I don't think it would take long before the new gasket would fail.
Any do you know the tightening sequence for the head bolts and the tension??
1982 johnson 60 hp 2 cylinder.
Thanks Gilbert
 
Racer offered that, I'm going to bed, but you work from center outward bringing up in 15 or 20 in. pound increments. Certainly no more than 130 inch lbs. total torque. But just guessing. I never use a torque wrench on small stuff, especially going into aluminum. Done so many, just go by instinct. Stupid? Well, I never get any come backs with problems. Use nice wire brushed threads with a tiny bit of nickel anti seize in order to replace your lost zinc coating from the old original bolts. Push the anti seize into the cleaned threads, making certain there is no excess. You don't want to slobber any into your gasket area. You can lightly coat the shank of the bolt also, in order to discourage any more oxidation. Run a blunt tip tap into the block threads while irrigating with lite oil, then blow out clean, using a little solvent.
 
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Great, Thanks Racer. Do you think he has a workable block? I'm skeptical.
 

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