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Help, at a loss here...

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bmccune

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Hello, excuse my stupidity here. Have been trying to find my answer but have not been able to yet. Just purchased a used fishing boat as a back up to good a price to pass on but having a hard time finding info on it. Got a 1994 Lowe 1600 with a 1993 50 hp Evinrude tilt/trim 2 cyl. electric start OUTBOARD motor. Motor number OMCL805VE394. My question I think is a simple one just cannot find answer. Is this motor pre mix or straight fuel? Person I purchased from did not use boat, was Fathers whom passed away so I have no info on this thing. When trying to find a manual there is so many choices that all look the same but are not I am unsure which one to get. Any help here apricated, heck I cannot even find the boat itself for any help as far as a 1600 is concerned, thinking 1620 is the same by some docs but not sure on that either. Got the boat/motor/trailer all running and not to bad a shape just cosmetic stuff for a whooping $500 so could not pass it up in my mind. Thanks for any help motor and/or boat....
 
I believe it left the factory with oil injection.-----But no telling what the status is today !!----Is there a separate oil tank in the back of the boat ?----Remove cowling on motor.-----Observe fuel line coming into the motor,------Where does it go ?-----To a small pump on side of block or a bigger pump near carburetors ?------Observe oil line ( if it is there ) and see where it goes.------Do not start this motor until you are 100% sure on the oiling.-----Failure to do so could be expensive.-----Posting pictures can help.
 
Welcome. As Racer informs us, the 1993 motor will have oil injection, known as VRO when talking about OMC motors. VRO means "variable ratio oiling", and sometimes have been disconnected and some hoses rerouted. This means you will have to mix your oil with your gas and then fill the boats' fuel tank, or in the portable fuel can that may have come with the boat. The VRO systems are quite reliable as well as a great idea to optimize fuel oil mix ratio. However they are often damaged from ethanol or in some cases debris being introduced to the oil reservoir. Another common problem is failure of the vent cap on the oil reservoir causing excessive pressure and over dosing the oil into the motor, causing smoke, unreliability, carbon buildup, and pollution. Since they were originally engineered before ethanol, the main problem is not with OMC. Subsequently the replacement units are ethanol "resistant". We have no way of knowing if the oil reservoir is still there and it in fact is disconnected. In order to post pictures here they have to be reduced to under 1000k.
Wondering about that model # you gave us. A 1993 should end with an ET as the 2nd and 3rd to last digits. Something like this: E50TELETB
Tim
 
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timguy said:
Wondering about that model # you gave us. A 1993 should end with an ET as the 2nd and 3rd to last digits. Something like this: E50TELETB
Tim
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You are correct, found many numbers on this thing, just wrote down where it said it was model. There is a number like you have stated and it is as follows: VE50TLETB.

I really have not looked this thing over real good (10 deg. outside now) so not 100% sure of anything on it yet. It does run and all, runs a bit rough but really think that is due to it having sit for 2 years with fuel still hooked up. Betting carbs need cleaned out which I have no problem in doing. Retired Mechanic so not a concern. Finding any info on this has been very hard, much harder than anything else I have ever searched for. I was looking for the basic manual on it to get specs and stuff. Hell do not even no what kind of oil/how much or any of the vitals as I cannot find this info.

The boat itself is tough as well Title says > 94 LOWE OMCL805VE394 1600. When doing a search for that (even for Insurance purpose) that brings nothing up 1600 wise. So little confused, got a good deal on it I think but could not tell that by all the problems in finding info on it....
 
Before you spend a single $ on it post the results of a compression test.----Some will argue.-----This is a very common motor they sold thousands of them ( your version , model type ) from from 1989 to 2005.----Information on these motors is everywhere !
 
racerone said:
Before you spend a single $ on it post the results of a compression test.----Some will argue.-----This is a very common motor they sold thousands of them ( your version , model type ) from from 1989 to 2005.----Information on these motors is everywhere !
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A little update:
Went out and looked a bit at it (got warmer) OK looked at the Fuel line to the motor and traced it back. Went from motor to Fuel tank, see NO oil tank anywhere. So unless I missed it I have to assume someone done away with it over the years. IF this is the case would I purchase all (after I check compression and all) to make it back to factory or just run Pre mix? If pre mix ratio?
 
Post your compression values.----Then there may be more good information to act on.-----Mix is 50:1 on these.----You will also need to install a new water pump impeller should you be ready for another fishing trip.
 
What pump is on your motor now ????----The VRO pump ?---If the VRO pump is there , is it in working condition ??-----Or a wonderfully simple pump on the side of the block.----Most outboard owners learn the hard way that their motor needs a new water pump impeller every 5 years or so !
 
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OK thanks 1stfor all this I know more than it should be.. Just went out again and looked. As said I do not have any type of manual so I am guessing here. I see on the intake housing by the carb a somewhat big large item attached with hoses attached to it one going to the upper carb. Lower carb I cannot see well enough to say. I also noticed that the fuel line attachment has 2 line attachments on it BUT there is only the one main fuel line hose on it the other is blocked off. I do not see another pump anywhere but could be just a little cold out to be standing looking right now. So I am guessing it would not be as simple as just putting the tank back on and done. I read somewhere, lost it now about disabling the VRO system and just doing premix but lost that link. I really need to get the manual I guess... Might not been as good a deal as I thought, lol... ���� As far as water pump, done that before on my Merc Pontoon not a big deal... Lots to do on this thing just would like to hear running before I do other crap to it....
 
Thanks again, once it gets a bit warmer I will do that as well as get the junk out of the boat (was used a a storage container for crap and some good tools found, LoL.) for now though you have giving me some things to look at and I will once it either warms up or I get it into the garage off the trailer, needs new bunks/carpet and painted. So want boat off of it.. Thanks again for now, will continue again as needed once I can stay warm, I am old and hate cold, lol..
 
I say: " If you want something to last you put it in the refrigerator, eh?....If you want something to last a long time you put it into the deep freeze". Maybe I can make 90 or 95 up here in Northern MN. A couple ice cold Hamm's beers never cut anyone's life short....either....have they?
What state are you in? Is ethanol mandated? VRO was likely messing up, but....did a cylinder get scored? Really need that compression test next chance. I have a nice block for a 50 right in the basement, it's listed on eBay. VRO casualty but will clean up at .010 over. My guess is that your motor could be damaged, that's why the ridiculously Lowe (ha!) price.
 
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timguy said:
My guess is that your motor could be damaged, that's why the ridiculously Lowe (ha!) price.
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OK all I understand I need to check further not a problem will do so WHEN I can stand outside and not shiver doing so. I am just trying to get a hold on options here prior. Am taking the the Daughter at her word on this and her word was, 'I do not know much about this boat it was my Dad's, he passed from covid last year. I do know that he had it out on the lake 1 week before he got sick and I remember him talking about all the fish he caught on his trip". With that in mind and knowing it has been sitting for around 16 months or so I am assuming (I know bad word) all was good then. Really think it is bad fuel/carb issue as when I picked it up fuel cap was just sitting on it not screwed down and boat uncovered outside.
Anyway WILL get numbers.... But lets assume (word again) all is good and just fuel. I seen it somewhere and cannot find it. HOW does one go about making sure since there is no oil jug that and appears VRO is on it that all is by passed as it should be correctly to use pre mix IF I went that route or would it be best to get the jug back on, and then figure out if VRO is working right once I find that check/how too somewhere.... Just trying to get ducks in a row....
IF I purchase a new motor for it which is not a concern I still end up with NO OIL tank for a new motor with VRO so really think I need to figure this part out no matter what new/repair or whatever...
 
Motors in BAD CONDITION will still start and run.-----Took a 1990 model V-4 apart to rebuild.-----Found 2 pistons with classic broken rings and and groove damage.------Owner said it had been " harder to start " of late.----Do not forget to drain gear oil.----Check for water in gear oil.----Pressure test gear case.-----Most of us are aware that these gearcases on the 2 cylinder 40 / 50 is not robust.
 
Agree. Here is what I would do. Check things out first. Like we have discussed, a compression test and make sure lower unit has nice clean oil. Even if the powerhead needs overhaul, the lower unit has good value in itself. They typically sell at around $400, even $500 for a nice clean original, skeg perfectly intact with passed pressure/vacuum test. Don't worry about the VRO. You can decide on that later, as it's set up for premixing for now. You can test things out with a 6 gallon can and hose. The built in fuel tank may need to be removed and cleaned if it had a loose cap out in the weather for a year, especially if there is ethanol in it. Since ethanol is hygroscopic, it will invite moisture into the mix and then phase separate, causing big problems. If the motor is spun over, even to do a compression test, make sure fuel line is disconnected at the motor. Why? It will suck in the crap and further destroy the VRO which for now, is only acting as your fuel pump.
 
WOW! I haven't looked lately. Look at that beat up junker for 500. Looks like the last one I shipped UPS, after it fell out the back of the truck, then got run over by a girl talking on her cell phone while putting on her makeup.
 

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Sorry, I had a tough time posting the picture. Yes I have sold many lower units on eBay. I'm a charter member. Lower units are clean here in Northern MN. Since I mig weld aluminum, it's great to dress em up and paint. They are relatively easy to package and ship.
 

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Gear pros is now making decent gear sets for those at a reasonable price. I would not waste my time on a used box for those anymore.
 
racerone said:
First post the compression test values !!
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OK did the compression check yesterday, both Cylinders 1 and 2 are at 140psi. Also while cranking had spark tester on it would have spark most times then would go out and comeback at times. Also took fuel sample, can see/smell it is premix but smells very bad so assume what I thought originally, Bad Fuel possible plugged up Carbs. BUT the spark issue also is in my mind now. NO book so unsure what voltage's/ohms etc should be at coil or where ever. Also while playing noticed Tilt for motor going up and down very slow and hydr cylinder leaking at top, found a deal kit online for that so hopefully that will be good at a later date..
 
riopga said:
You can get the shop manual on this site. Well worth it if you are going to work on it yourself.
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Have the manual coming, will not be here for another week and a half so just trying to get as much info prior to it instead of sitting on my thumb doing nothing. Understand to check kill switch and all will do that. Main question goes back to the above original. "Is it worth it to get the Oil tank setup that it had originally and get put in. Along with rebuilding VRO unit (already have crab kits coming as well and a tilt cylinder kit as it has a leak at the top of it when using). OR do I remove VRO completely and use a regular fuel pump replacement kit. Which way is the best way to proceed on that side of things. Do not mind using pre mix if required but new tank complete is around $150, kit to repair vro around $50 or old style pump and plumbing around $90 little difference but not that much to threat over. Which way is more practical/better. As for firing concern want to get 1 thing fixed at a time. Just my way of doing things w/o over powering my old brain, lol............
 
So do you intend to use ethanol, or alternatively, non oxy fuel? I would suggest calling Tim's Outboard in Hackensack MN 218 682 2331. Mike or Dan are TRUE professionals. Calley or Theresa will likely answer the phone. If you decide to keep the VRO, they may have the advice you need. Tell 'em Tim sent ya. It's a slow time of year here with boats....there is a foot or more of ice on our lakes so they can spend more time with you.
Thanks for trading with Marine engine parts, I often order parts here too.
 
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bmccune said:
Have the manual coming, will not be here for another week and a half so just trying to get as much info prior to it instead of sitting on my thumb doing nothing. Understand to check kill switch and all will do that. Main question goes back to the above original. "Is it worth it to get the Oil tank setup that it had originally and get put in. Along with rebuilding VRO unit (already have crab kits coming as well and a tilt cylinder kit as it has a leak at the top of it when using). OR do I remove VRO completely and use a regular fuel pump replacement kit. Which way is the best way to proceed on that side of things. Do not mind using pre mix if required but new tank complete is around $150, kit to repair vro around $50 or old style pump and plumbing around $90 little difference but not that much to threat over. Which way is more practical/better. As for firing concern want to get 1 thing fixed at a time. Just my way of doing things w/o over powering my old brain, lol............
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If you bought the clymer or the seloc that is money wasted. And just use the VRO pump as a pre mix pump money will be saved.
 
OK little update here as I have had time/weather to do some more on this. Spark problem FIXED, was the Power Pack assy. causing the concern.. Now Fixed.. Now onto another question please. I AM doing away with the VRO 100%, have the pump, hoses, bolts etc to do it that is not a problem. MY QUESTION: As I am 100% removing it I read somewhere about putting a New Air Silencer on it that does not have the VRO hookup stuff but I can no longer find that head to get the part number I need for the new silencer. Motor is a 1993 50hp VE50TLETB. Can anyone PLEASE point me in the right direction for this Air box or do I really need to get it? Thanks...
 
No need to do anything to the airbox !!!-----Perhaps you are mixing up with what to do with the pulse limiter.----The pulse limiter is a " flow fuse " for the VRO.-----Not needed for the conventional pump that mounts on the side of the top cylinder.
 
racerone said:
No need to do anything to the airbox !!!-----Perhaps you are mixing up with what to do with the pulse limiter.----The pulse limiter is a " flow fuse " for the VRO.-----Not needed for the conventional pump that mounts on the side of the top cylinder.
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THANKS, thought I needed to change it as well so THANK YOU very much... I just remember seeing a video on youtube with someone who changed it as well and could not find it anymore.... Get this all done and move on to the next items to fix. Leak tilt cylinder, no biggie, some new carpet, new trailer bunks and a sticking Control for throttle/shifter (the ball that keeps all locked in place for some reason is causing it very hard to engage, probably dirt/rust or something not there yet).
 
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