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1976? 50hp electro shift - terminal block wiring

FstaRockr Burns

Regular Contributor
Hi need help - i am wiring the 8 lug terminal block on a evinrude - I have 2 wires left I cant account for - they go to a round odd shaped black molded thing that sits behind the pack - no clue what this is.. blocking diode or maybe a tilt/cut switch? see pins 4 and 5 in the diagram below - they go to a round black molded rubber thing - thats it.. not sure what that is?

Following this diagram:

288b76b3-67af-45b2-a9b7-60f27fe5ce81.jpg

can anyone shed some light?

heres a pic of the black molded thing:

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2 wires - not sure where they connect to?

PO had one on the red going to batt but in the manual it doesnt show this?
54b3a51b-29dd-4ebe-a61d-12bf09aeb922.jpg

Wanna tie these last 2 up before firing it up - thanks
 
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ok - seems after doing more reading this is the shift blocking diode. Its not in my manual - can anyone tell me what wire goes where? ill test the diode and if working will presume the red wire on the terminal block (batt +) is the source - will keep digging thanks.
 
Shift diodes assy is supposed to have:

1-Yellow lead--joins other Yellow leads on terminal strip.
1- Yellow/Grey stripe lead-- joins other Yellow Grey leads
1. Purple/Green stripe lead--Joins other Purple/Green lead and ultimately goes to shift switch in control.

Purpose is to keep it from slamming into forward gear the instant the key is turned off. Does this by supplying shift switch with voltage until the alternator coasts to a stop.

Don't know why you have different colors (aftermarket part??)
 
well i fired it up and she started right away - ran good for 5 minutes, then slowly started dying/restart - now zero spark on anything. Tested the pack and its bad - lasted 10 minutes. Trigger/timer base output is 0.75v steady disconnected - zero connected. Stator tested 250v disconnected, 13v connected- kill wire works perfect, reg/rect working fine - disconnected both and no change.

Cdi is closed till jan 4th - what are my options? Return this unit?

Any thoughts on what else could be the issue? coils new- batt new, starter new, cranking very fast-
 
thanks - ill check again regarding the shift/diode - at this point i just want to figure the spark issue. Reason i said 76 is because none of the earlier models had an 8 gang terminal block - only one that did was the 76 model- according to clymers of course..
 
Your motor is a 1971 or 72 model.-----The only years for electric shift in a 50 HP.-----You have a model # or pictures of both sides of engine block ?
 
heres a pic of the engine - (sorry just got home).. I also made sure the plugs were in and powerpack grounded twice - i know these evinrude packs are prone to blowing - either way, seems mine did and have non clue how or why.

25d2eac8-1d5c-40f9-8f51-a2378ca226f3.jpg

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Can anyone tell me the wiring for the diode at the back of the motor? Got off ph with cdi tech support- gentleman said 2 yellow wires go to 2 yell rr wires (ie stator) - now i have no spark? the 3rd wire was previously not disconnected - im only trying to get the 2 yellow ones located correctly-

thanks
 
See post #4. The shift diodes have nothing to do with spark. It keeps the motor from slamming into forward gear the instant you turn the key off. Not really harmful if it does slam into gear, but annoying.
 
Check your kill wire, black/yellow or tan. If any power is getting into pack through this wire, your going to be upset. I have a few nice used packs....tell me before you run out of cash.
 
Hi all OK so made some progress. Ran separate kill wire, original one must have been sorting.. either way I had it running great on a new power pack, moment I connected that shift diode pack blew again. There must be a wiring issue. .

Originally I did as mentioned, yellow to yellows, yellow greys to yellow greys.. a diagram from a 3 cyl shows slightly different.. only one stator lead to rr, I always thought rr needs 2 wife's for power..
 
So is power getting into that black/yellow wire? When motor stops, this wire is supposed to be grounded. If you disconnect it at pack, put your meter on the end coming in from the harness. If ANY voltage is present with key off, on, or crank, it will toast the pack. Also, if you want to test it's continuity to ground, be careful not to damage your meter while using ohm's, because it may have enough power to do so, ifs it's getting electrified.
 
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What 3 cylinder model wiring diagram are you looking at ?------Are you sure you only saw one wire from stator to rectifier / regulator ?------Yes ----12 volt wiring can be confusing.-----These power packs do not fail unless wiring is messed up.
 
Was using this diagram: the Rect does not connect to ye/gr on stator, only tach on one leg.

The three yellows do connect (stator, rect and diode)..

i think the diode wiring on harness might be messed up - ive only had the packs go boom when i hook up the diode wires- and I diode tested them, they all pass - ie not current flowing in two directions..


so at this point stumped- trigger and stators been solid.. new coils and wires and plugs, good grounds,

trigger DVA disconnected is 0.7v (in spec)
stator: 180-220 disconnected (depending on battery charge) but stable and in spec.

b4 i connected the diode yellows the 2 packs ive blown worked fine - this will be the last time i touch a 70s electric shift johnson EVER. Lesson learned.



I have the 8 lug terminal block like this unit- but 2 cylinder.. not 100% sure on year/model- as mentioned yellow plug. I did a time on it (4 degrees idle) and the joe reeves method max cranking.. all set right, carbs squeaky clean as well so just this darn pack issue -

1972_65_Eshift.jpg
 
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Sidenot - can the rect make power from just one leg off stator? I was always under the impression it required 2 legs or more? something new learned.. must be a very low amp DC output - did i see 3 amps somewhere? Just enough to maintain a battery
 
Stators have 2 wires ( or 3 ) coming off them to charge a battery.-----Did I say 12 volts and wires can be confusing ?----The red wire off the RECTIFIER charges the battery at the red terminal..-----And the other battery terminal goes to ground.
 
It wd make sense if all the yellow and grey wires joined like the yellow ones but they don't on that diagram.. unless those terminals are internally connected on the block which seems very odd.. or require a jumper wire which is just as unlikely...

For jokes I'll do a continuity test. This is the only diagram that matches my 8 lug terminal block. All the 2 cyl ones I looked at had less terminals..
 
You need to revisit the wiring diagram-----As stated 12 volts and wiring is often confusing to some.------I could go out and look at a few 3 cylinder motor terminal blocks , but not going to bother today.-----There is no difference in the way a 2 / 3 / 4 / 6 cylinder stator and charging system work.-----Note , terminals 2 and 3 may well be connected.
 
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thnks racer - not too confusing for me, just trying to understand the diagram. i originally wired it with all those yellow/grey wires connected incl tach- the diagram jsut shows otherwise. Got back pos with covid test and feeling under the weather so wont get to it
 
i paged through half a book and every single other similar year evinrude shows the rect joining on both stator wires, the above diagram must be faulty for that reason- it does NOT show the yellow/grey stator lead connecting to the rect at all - just the blocking diode (double word alert) - SHIFT diode..
 
Really-----I see a yellow and a grey /yellow coming from the stator.-----And I see a yellow and a gray / yellow stripe going to the rectifier.-----Red ( 12 volts DC ) going to the battery to keep it charged.
 
To reiterate: ( the diagram must be faulty)

diagram.jpg


Really-----I see a yellow and a grey /yellow coming from the stator.-----And I see a yellow and a gray / yellow stripe going to the rectifier.-----Red ( 12 volts DC ) going to the battery to keep it charged.
 
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