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00 evinrude 15 HP 4 Stroke runs 10 minutes, coughs, stops

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boatfixer

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I've seen this posted in different places but no solution

2000 evinrude 15 HP 4 stroke, runs great starts one pull..... till it gets warm (10 min) then it coughs sputters and dies,

new fuel pump, clean tank, new hoses etc etc, when it stalls there are no bubbles in the fuel line to the carb either.
float valve is not leaking.
I've checked spark with gauge right after it stalls (9mm) and both are good sparks.
I've checked compression right after it stalls and it gets above 100 with 4 pulls
it's not overheating, water pump is working fine.
Coil resistance test is ok but primary to ground is as high as 5 ohms when the manual says highest should be 3.2 but like I said there is strong spark

if there was a tight valve wouldn't it show in the compression test?
 
Yes it does have an accelerator pump, I've looked at it and the diaphram seems ok. I've watched the front of the carb when it stalls and I don't see fuel spraying from the accelerator pump orifice unless it get's into the float boal and raises the level. It does run too rich even with the float set at an angle above level.

It starts normal after it cools (needs choke) I can sometimes get it to go again right after it stops by using WOT but it doesn't last long.

I was thinking about this too, there is a check valve I think. I wonder if it can be blocked to troubleshoot?

I just checked and I don't see any fuel coming from the orifice when I pump the throttle either, I think it's supposed to spray at the front of the carb such that you can actually see it.

thanks for your response
 
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I just checked and I don't see any fuel coming from the orifice when I pump the throttle either, I think it's supposed to spray at the front of the carb such that you can actually see it.
 
Yup. Something is plugged up. You should see a spray when you pump the throttle. Like your old car, had a carb with an accelerator pump....plus a choke.
 
OK, I get it, the check valve in the accelerator pump is stuck and that can also make it bleed fuel into the carb throat making it too rich, carbon up and quit after 10 min maybe??
but why does it start when it's cold?
 
Is there an oil pressure switch ?-----Is it hooked up to the optical ignition powerpack ?----Checked ohms on orange wires from stator ?
 
yes it has that setup but I have the lead to the oil pressure switch disconnected, that should disable the RPM retarder function for oil and temp if the sensors aren't connected no?
I have the shop manual I was going to go through those tests to see how the motor behaved when it's shut down by the sensors.
I think it's maybe something different going on, it runs really rich, even with the float angled above level a bit, I'm gonna pull the carb tomorow and get the accelerator pump check valve working.
 
I got the accelerator pump circuit working properly but it's still running stinky rich. I think that's why it's quitting. maybe I got a punky float or bad valve even though they appear ok. I lowered the float level quite a bit and turned the mix screw in a couple turns and it's still stinky rich. I ordered a carb kit. It's a carb I got from ebay but it looks in excellent condition, hardly used. I know it's the right carb for the engine.
 
??----What was the issue in that video.----No cooling water ?------Have you checked valve clearance.-----Checked the rocker arms for wear ?
 
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racerone said:
??----What was the issue in that video.----No cooling water ?------Have you checked valve clearance.-----Checked the rocker arms for wear ?
Click to expand...
it's shutting down after about 10 min, sooner when it's warm. Yes I've checked the valve clearance, even made them a little on the loose side. I didn't look at the rocker arms. it runs fine for about 10 min and then coughs and dies. it's getting plenty of fuel.
 
I like the timing light idea, I've used my spark gap checker right after it quits and it's at 8mm like it should be but maybe it's some temp thing that hard to track that way.
I bought this old motor off someone thinking I could fix it, I've put so much money into it, including 200 bucks for a carb that turned out to have it's idle seat ruined.
it's hard to turn back at this point, at what point do you admit defeat? this is personal now, I can't let it beat me.
 
I have 3 of these 4 stroke motors.----Dealers and people gave up on them !----They are not popular motors.----If you follow logical steps then it might be easy to see what going on.----I did not see water coming out of the tell tale.-----Have you replaced the impeller ?
 
it's moving water, I thought maybe the problem was being caused by the hot water going through the accel pump with a bad diaphram so I bypassed it. Then too much water flows out there so I stuck a bolt in the end, it's getting cooling and I've verified operation temps with my IR temp gun. I appreciate all your input, never know what I might forget to think of. I'm gonna run a leakdown test, I found a good carb on ebay, got the guy to take a pic of the mix needle and seat, accel diaphram etc. the motor is like new inside, hardly ever used, a real mechanic will not be defeated so easily LOL

Ive been working on engines all my life but never outboards, I always wanted to learn them so I'm not so hurt over all of this, going to take a class would cost a grand at least.
 
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I wonder if this is just it running on one cylinder? I changed the plugs and checked the wires with the ohm meter. I tried a new coil too with no luck.
 
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