15 HP Chrysler 155BA

New member and New to me Chrysler outboard.
I think its a 1974 but info is not always clear. Have not been able to get it running yet.
Compression was good but no spark. I was able to get this corrected by checking condensers and cleaning the points as well as gapping one of the points.
Have changed the gaskets and diaphragm in the fuel pump and i have fuel to the carburetor but it does not seem to go past this. Plugs are dry.
Have taken the carb off and cleaned it but still wont start. I also removed the welch plug to make sure the passages were clear.
Have ordered a carb kit but i will be waiting on this for a bit. Not a lot of room to tighten the carb to the engine(any tips)
I will be changing the fuel lines.
There was a little fuel left in the tank but i added new fuel to this....i will be replacing this with new fuel.

Thanks for reading and any tips or missing steps would be helpful.

Do a compression test??
You using the choke as you try to start?
Make sure the needle/seat is free and allowing fuel to pass.

Re: 15 HP Chrysler 155BA Correct Model# is 152BA SN 2229

patiolatern said:

New member and New to me Chrysler outboard.
I think its a 1974 but info is not always clear. Have not been able to get it running yet.
Compression was good but no spark. I was able to get this corrected by checking condensers and cleaning the points as well as gapping one of the points.
Have changed the gaskets and diaphragm in the fuel pump and i have fuel to the carburetor but it does not seem to go past this. Plugs are dry.
Have taken the carb off and cleaned it but still wont start. I also removed the welch plug to make sure the passages were clear.
Have ordered a carb kit but i will be waiting on this for a bit. Not a lot of room to tighten the carb to the engine(any tips)
I will be changing the fuel lines.
There was a little fuel left in the tank but i added new fuel to this....i will be replacing this with new fuel.

Thanks for reading and any tips or missing steps would be helpful.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback!
Correct Model# is 152BA SN 2229 my bad.

Compression test was a few weeks ago and both cyl were around 110 if i recall correctly.
Yes I have been using the choke when attempting to start.
The carb looked very clean even before i took it apart for cleaning and everything seemed to move freely. I even removed the welch plug up top.
Still waiting on the kit for the carb but I lost my patience and i have applied epoxy to the old welch plug and am attempting to reinstall it so I can test tomorrow.
I removed the arm on top of carb to try and tighten down the carb better and I found the second scribed line on the plate to align the roller arm to when starting. I have seen the videos on line from "chrysleroutboarddude" and they have been very helpful.

Is it possible the butterfly on the carb was open before...it seems closed completely now when aligned with the scribe mark but once i change the throttle position it will open up.....maybe we find out tomorrow....?

I have backed out the top screw by 1 1/2 turns. The idle mixture screw.

Thanks for reading!

That's called the air/fuel mix screw.
Controls the mix at low speed.
It just so happens to smooth out and bring up the idle when set right.
Try a shot of starting fluid?

Jerryjerry05 said:

That's called the air/fuel mix screw.
Controls the mix at low speed.
It just so happens to smooth out and bring up the idle when set right.
Try a shot of starting fluid?

Click to expand...

Good news it STARTED!!!!
I had about a foot of old fuel hose that showed to be contaminating the carb. I found some more particles in carb and cleaned it out again. I had used some clear hose on a temp basis and it was real dirty. Put it back together and started pulling......and pulling.....and pulling.... Combustion on occasion and starter fluid would help a little.
Did another compression test and both cyl are around 120psi.

Here is where it's a little strange......
When I first had the motor i found it strange that one of the spark plug wires has a printed tag indicating "TOP" but it was plugged into the lower cyl....at the time I tried changing them but no difference. I have kept this in mind to watch and I had a chance to look at someone else's motor in person and it was the same...."TOP" plugged into the bottom cyl. Motor was not operating.
I now assumed that this was standard....... I was wrong...

I switched it up and the motor fired up on two pulls. Great news!

I ran it a few times and played a little bit with settings but it runs!!!!

Now that I know the motor runs I can go after a new impeller while I tinker with the idle etc. Still waiting on the carb kit too.

Thanks for the help!

Jerryjerry05 said:

Does your impeller have 6 blades?
		47-F436065-2 - Impeller [ More info ] $28.16 4 in stock.
		18-8903 - Impeller, 47-F436065 2 [ More info ] $15.99 $14.36 4 in stock.

Click to expand...

I don't know yet. Is there a chance that the above may not be correct? I would prefer to tinker on the motor while I wait on the Impeller to arrive so I would like to order prior to taking it apart.
Is this a bad idea?

See what's in there first???

Will do.
I currently have fuel leakage at the quick connect fitting that is threaded into the cowl. I changed out the o ring on the male side but still have the leak. Must be the female connector and unlikely something that can be repaired.

Taken the bottom of the motor off to gain access to the impeller and there seems to be a fair amount of grease in all the cavities-see pics below.
Is there no gasket on the top of the bottom end?

The screws on the impeller housing are TOUGH....I currently have some penetrating oil on them. fingers crossed this works....

Thanks!

A propane torch will aid in the removal of those screws.
Get the right screwdriver, even if you need to buy it.
Sears sells a 6" heavy duty that works great.
When you reassemble, replace with hex head screws.

Good advice on using heat. Wow these were tight but they finally came out! I will replace them like you suggested.
Should the replacements be SS?

The impeller looks to be in pretty good shape. Hard to find any cracking on any of the fins. It is different then we expected with the 10 fins.
Is this original or an aftermarket product? Should I replace it anyways? If yes what with?

What else should I inspect/change now that I am in this? Can I remove the shaft and inspect?

I have attached a pic of some gasket/sealer I have. The permatex one looks like it might be the right choice.
Waterproof and flexible. Temperature range -75°F to 400°F (-59°C to 204°C); resists oil, water, weather
Your thoughts?

Thanks again!

Sorry pic of gasket material attached now.

Stainless if used in salt water.
Sealers not really needed, the factory didn't use it when the motor was new.
The impeller if it's out?? Then replace it.
Contact Franz Marine and ask about the 10 vane impeller. If they don't have the 10 and if the 6 will be an ok replacement?

The driveshaft can be pulled out but that can damage the seal.

If you drained the oil and nothing but oil came out I wouldn't worry about any other seals.
BUT!! do change the drain/vent plug seals.
The factory used plastic crush seals, they are a one time use only.
I replace with Mercury's drain plug seals. 19183 About $1.15 each.Look on ebay(cheaper)

Thanks JerryJerry appreciate all the help and advice! Looks like I am all set on getting this motor ready for spring!

Merry Christmas and happy New Year!

Quick follow up:
Franz Marine indicated that the 6 vane impeller would work fine and is about 1/3 the price of the 10 vane one.
The impeller was very tight to the shaft but went on without much issue. Motor has been put back together and seems to have good water flow.
Drain/vent plug seals also changed.

Thanks.