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1989 Crusader 454 Help

LuckyDog33

New member
New to the forum. Looking for some advice on my new to me boat ‘89 Tiara 3300 with twin Crusader fwc 454s. I apologize in advance for the long post.

1. I have no clue what year or manual needed. The serial numbers are 80292 RH port and 80377 LH starboard. I’m told these are 350hp but cannot find any indication of such and assume these are original motors with 2,000hrs +/-.

2. The motors sound really good, but lack power. I’ve been on same boat at 3000rpm she moves 21-22kts. At 3000rpm I’m barely getting 15-16kts and barely on plane. WOT should be 4200-4400, but I’m only getting 3600-3700. Props are original 18x21 3blades. Running gear is clean as the boat was pulled, power washed and I cleaned all the running gear. No change.

——I've done the following to both motors: racor filters, in-line filter to Q-Jets, new plugs wires cap rotor, and Seafoam spray into carbs to clean top half. Motors fire up much quicker and better throttle response but no change to power.
I have to still check timing, advance and total. Port motor is nearly impossible to see the timing marks. I’ve read these distributors do go bad and the springs corrode. Would it be worth it to just replace with Delco Voyager EST? Looks like I have the conversion kit to electronic but did look a bit corroded when I pulled the cap.

—-Compression was 122-134 across all cylinders with the exception of #5 on starboard was 101. Leak down proved to be a stuck intake valve. Is my compression too low? I’ve found conflicting info 120-140 is spec, but also saw 130-170, uniformity being most important.

im trying to figure out if during winter layup should I pull motors and do a complete rebuild or just a valve job on starboard that has a bad valve.

if not rebuilding completely, I’d plan to replace both intake manifolds with edlebrock performers, exhaust manifolds, rebuild carbs (I still need to verify secondaries are fully opening), both Carter diaphragm fuel pumps, and all new fuel lines.

Im just not sure if I’m on the right track. I do not want to have to pull the motors if not needed, but do need to get the proper power from these motors for the boat to perform the way it should.

thank you all in advance
 
I should also note when I picked the boat up, I was able to spin 42-4300.

also both risers elbows u coolers and heat exchangers were replaced new.
 
This just me but it would seem that the engines are in fairly good health. I will assume there's no marine growth on the props, running gear and hull. Trim tabs retracted. Tiaras are heavy. With twin big blocks they barely move. With twin turbodiesel of 450 hp the boat begins to get out of its own way. Unless you know that the other boat has identical props, there's no comparison really. You may be underpropped. Your homework this winter is to get the propellers to a good prop tuner (I'll put in a plug for Black Dog in Stevensville MD) so they can see what needs to be done to get the horsepower to the pavement, so to speak. Proceed with your plan to have the heads reconditioned, send out the carbs, and install the new exhaust and fuel parts. In the spring do a sea trial with the renovated propellers and see where that gets you. You might need to make some adjustment.
If you don't mind spending a big wad of cash, the next best thing to repowering with new diesels (70K) is to add supercharging to your existing big blocks. This will plop another 150 ponies in your bilge per engine, and you'll certainly be able to plane off in a hurry. These don't add a ton of boost (unless you WANT to blow up your $h!z) so long life is possible.
 
Props are newly out of prop shop and what tiara originally spec. Also same props on identical boat that I’ve been on. Other 3300 moves at a respectable 21-22jt cruise at 3k where I barely get 16kts same speed. Also concerned about WOT. I should certainly see more than 3700.

I will say these motors have very little if any blow by.

I thought about a diesel conversion. I just don’t have 70k to dump into bilge for 100-150hrs a year
 
if the props you had would let you spin 4300 and you aren't getting there now, I's start with the spark advance and make sure it works...if you don't get timing advance per the recommended curve, the engines will never produce enough torque to get and stay on plane.

The 101 compression number is right at the edge of service spec...(100 psi min) and the 'balance' across all eight is correct.

FWIW, 2000 hours is the nominal figure for life expectancy with good maintenance...that said, I've seen engines go over 3000 hrs before a major rebuild. For 150hr/yr of use, you are probably best pulling the heads and getting valve jobs...assuming you can get the timing verified and close to spec performance first...
 
Thanks I’ll try messing with timing now then before I yank it for season. I’ve become dizzy reading and reading the best distributor. Any thoughts or advice? Local mechanic friend recommended going with delco voyager est kit others I’ve read msd and others said Dave’s. Not really sure what to go with. I really do not know enough about timing advance. Any thoughts on what distributor works best in this old heavy boat?
 
The EST kits are 'ok' but won't let you tailor the ignition advance. They are simple and easy to install but I really don't prefer them unless you have a computer to monitor the timing.

Davis unified ignition can provide a turn-key marine rated distributor with an adjustable advance curve...tell them what you need and they will set it up for you. that said, they are not 'cheap'...I'd suggest using the stock ignition advance curve unless you modify the engine.
 
I’ll give dui a call in the morning. Thanks for the advice. According to their web page it’s a 6week lead time so replacing distributor will have to wait til spring to test (I’m forced to come out of water by 11/15). I will however verify current timing.
 
Follow up. I checked timing and I’m not getting full advance. New distributors are a few weeks out so it will be spring when I’m finally able to test out. Thanks for all the advice.
 
Update. Still no DUI distributors. Had a really tough time reaching someone but finally did today. Appears they are severely backlogged and supply chain issues, and am told 10-12 more weeks are likely or more��. I found standard rotation dui at summit. Anyone have and ideas where I can locate one with the reverse gear? Part M12720RR I really could care less what color. If not, what distributor could I go with besides the dui?
 
why do you want want the distributor with a 'reverse' drive gear? unless somebody did a major overhaul with significant changes, you should have identical distributors in both engines...

A "new" Mallory distributor isn't the same as one from the mid-2000's...i would be a bit leery...
 
To my knowledge no. I believe the bottom end is original. I’m pulling the heads off the starboard engine for a valve job (1 bad intake valve per compression and leak down). The port motor had top half done 4 years ago.
 
Thank you! Summit has the standard rotation DUI’s. Hopefully DUI will refund me, especially since it’s been 3+months with no delivery date yet.
 
Either way, I'd still verify the timing curve that's provided with the new distributor, to make sure it is viable for use in the boat...and make sure its marine rated...
 
I should have the new marine DUI’s by the end of the week. Still have time before I can test it as I’m still on the hard til April.

I will definitely check advance timing. That was my issue with the old distributors making only 17deg at 3000, hence boat was a dog
 
Either way, I'd still verify the timing curve that's provided with the new distributor, to make sure it is viable for use in the boat...and make sure its marine rated...

All electronic A/C Delco voyager distributors are marine rated. There is no "vent screen" on the distributor, and the A/C Delco pn, is on the Mercruiser distributor when you pay $200 more for the same model, through Merc.
 
Just installed the heads after being rebuilt. Still need to install the intake manifold (waiting on original gasket to cover the EGR hole). When I set the distributor on LH motor can someone help with identifying the timing based off the marks? I believe the wider V with the hole is TDC, and the first "point" on the tab is 4deg, then 8, 12, 16. Is this right? I do not have any labeling besides the tab which was rusted and painted over.
timing.jpg
 
for the most part, you have it...referencing your picture, for the LH engine, the BTDC graduations are above the hole.

The should also be marks on the flywheel you can use as a double check if you want...that said, they are likely just as corroded.
 
Are the graduations of each point typically 4deg?

I have a small hole in the flywheel which is exactly at 12oclock, but no reference timing marks or indicators.
 
the attachment should be good for all GM LH engines using the 'serrated' timing tab
 

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  • timing tab.pdf
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pretty much the same thing...TDC does not move...big difference is the BEFORE and AFTER indicators are swapped going from LH to RH engines...
 
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