am_dew
Advanced Contributor
I had to replace the keyed ignition switch for my AQ130C equipped boat because the OEM one suddenly lost it's tactile positions (Off, ACC, Run, Start were not felt when the key was turned). I replaced it with an ignition switch from Napa Auto Parts that had the same rear terminal configuration on it as the OEM switch. Now the engine starts and runs fine however ever since the ignition switch replacement, the amp "idiot light" stays on. That light I know was working as it should because before the ignition switch replacement if I took the idle down too low, it would come on, which to me was an indication that the battery was not being charged by the alternator due to the very low RPMs.
I removed and took the alternator to an alternator shop and the guy said it tested fine, outputting 13.6v. I just finished putting everything back together and the idiot light still stays on while the boat is trailered and running the engine in the driveway. My battery is brand new and it's voltage reads 12.33v measured at the battery terminals when the engine is off. When I run the engine at 2000 rpm, the battery voltage is in the 12.20-12.25v range and does not change if I rev the engine a bit more.
I am at a loss as to why this is happening and have run out of ideas to try and troubleshoot. I can't believe the ignition switch has anything to do with the issue but I am not discounting that possibility at this point. I think all would agree that I don't dare go for a cruise without being sure the alternator is doing it's job (ie. the amp idiot light does not stay on).
Any suggestion or comments are welcome! Thank you.
I removed and took the alternator to an alternator shop and the guy said it tested fine, outputting 13.6v. I just finished putting everything back together and the idiot light still stays on while the boat is trailered and running the engine in the driveway. My battery is brand new and it's voltage reads 12.33v measured at the battery terminals when the engine is off. When I run the engine at 2000 rpm, the battery voltage is in the 12.20-12.25v range and does not change if I rev the engine a bit more.
I am at a loss as to why this is happening and have run out of ideas to try and troubleshoot. I can't believe the ignition switch has anything to do with the issue but I am not discounting that possibility at this point. I think all would agree that I don't dare go for a cruise without being sure the alternator is doing it's job (ie. the amp idiot light does not stay on).
Any suggestion or comments are welcome! Thank you.