Is this a legit Evinrude engine?

Hi,
I’m looking at a boat that’s for sale and it’s got a non-working Evinrude 25 hp. The cowling doesn’t look like anything I’ve come across and a quick google search of Evinrude 25’s doesn’t show anything similar to this one. Does anyone recognize this engine?

Sure that is an EVINRUDE.------The 3 cylinder model.----Have a bunch of them.-----That looks like the 98 model.----Made from about 96 to 2001 model years for Johnson too.----First time for everything I guess !

racerone said:

Sure that is an EVINRUDE.------The 3 cylinder model.----Have a bunch of them.-----That looks like the 98 model.----Made from about 96 to 2001 model years for Johnson too.----First time for everything I guess !

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Thank you. The guy says it starts and runs but bogs down at speed. Is that a common problem for this vintage?

Hard to say what is wrong .----Many motors are neglected by a public that knows less and less about maintaining fine machinery.-----Perhaps the " Mickey Mouse " oil injection has not been discarded.------Trouble shooting is required and that costs nothing.----Might just need a new hose and fuel tank.

racerone said:

Hard to say what is wrong .----Many motors are neglected by a public that knows less and less about maintaining fine machinery.-----Perhaps the " Mickey Mouse " oil injection has not been discarded.------Trouble shooting is required and that costs nothing.----Might just need a new hose and fuel tank.

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Thanks - guys says one cylinder cuts out shortly after start up. I will start with all the basics.

Went outside to demo the engine for my son last night and decided to play with the mix screws on the three carbs. Surprise, surprise - I think I may have addressed the lean sneezes that previous owner called out. Turned all screws all the way in and then backed out 2.5 turns. Thing sneezed, complained, and shook until it stalled. Turned CCW a couple of more turns and sneezes started to taper off. turned screws out until engine sounded best and go figure, no sneezes. Sneezes were most apparent after giving the throttle a little rev, it would rev up, come back down, then sneeze (white puff of smoke out the bottom end and a little pop). I'm now able to rev (on muffs so not a huge rev) and come back down to idle without issue. Time for a water test!

Well a water test dashed my hopes. Thing runs at idle just fine but bogs down under any sort of throttle. I went back to basics and ruled out air, spark and compression. So fuel. Pulled all three carbs off and took the bowls off. It looks like 2 of the 3 main jet nozzles were all but blocked. Holes were very tiny. Poked around a bit, sprayed some throttle cleaner on them and put the carbs back together. I’m hopeful that maybe this will make a difference.

Good to see it's running better. Make sure the orifices are fully opened up to correct size. If not, then the associated cylinder will run lean and cause problems. Use a welding tip cleaner and a good strong solvent like CRC Throttle body cleaner spray. Be careful not to get it on your paintjob or even your skin. Use non oxy fuel for best longevity as well as power and economy. Ethanol is hygroscopic, it absorbs water, causing faster oxidation and deterioration.

Well I didn’t get very far actually. It may be working marginally better but the problem is still very much there. It will idle in neural and in gear but if I start opening up the throttle I get maybe 10% more power and then it just holds and flutters. Doesn’t stall, doesn’t sneeze, just flutters. If I ease off throttle back to idle it idles fine. I’m now thinking carbs should come back off and that I should clean then I thoroughly to be sure before expanding troubleshooting. Other part of me just wants to drive it down the road and have the experts look at it. My gut is telling me something is not right and I may spend a few more hours on this without getting anywhere…

bigtime_mcalpine said:

Well I didn’t get very far actually. It may be working marginally better but the problem is still very much there. It will idle in neural and in gear but if I start opening up the throttle I get maybe 10% more power and then it just holds and flutters. Doesn’t stall, doesn’t sneeze, just flutters. If I ease off throttle back to idle it idles fine. I’m now thinking carbs should come back off and that I should clean then I thoroughly to be sure before expanding troubleshooting. Other part of me just wants to drive it down the road and have the experts look at it. My gut is telling me something is not right and I may spend a few more hours on this without getting anywhere…

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What is the compression? Does spark jump a 7/16" Gap? Do you have the correct manual? That has an expensive OIS ignition on it.

compression is 105 across all three. I do have the manual. Yep, that is exactly what my local mechanic told me (expensive CDI that is prone to failure). Have not yet checked gap but did find out the hard way that pulling plug covers off old-school while running gives a nasty shock. If nasty shock = 7/16 I should be good . I'll see if I can check that more accurately.