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200 mariner, need a little help

A

AJINSAV

New member
hi all, I'm new here and new to Mariner engines, I just bought a 95 boat with a 200 Mariner on it. it runs great but on our first trip out we had a problem.
I'm thinking it may be as simple as the water pump but what is happening has me confused. what happened is we were cruising along and it just lost power and shut off. it would fire right back up and idle just fine but if I tried to throttle up it would stall and die. so we did a quick on the water check, fuel looked good all connections good, water coming out pee hose good. OK fast forward we just idled it back to the dock and I got it home, we kept smelling gas like it was running rich off and on but the motor ran smooth the whole time. so I get it home hook the water to it I bypassed the gear and throttled it up and as soon as I did it stopped pumping water, I would pull it back to idle and the water would start back. the pee hose does not have the normal fitting on the end it is just the hose coming from the heads, is that an issue, does it need a certain amount of back pressure to keep the water in the heads. is it likely that I just need to replace the water pump
Thanks in advance

oh yeah it has the water pump with the plastic housing if that make a difference. the PO said he had it replaced last year and only went out once since then
 
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lets try asking this a different way
is it possible for a failing water pump to work good at idle but loose all pressure when accelerating. I plan to pull the water pump down and I have a new one ready to install but just wanted another opinion as to what might be causing my issue.
 
well it's not the water pump, I'm thinking now the water drop off is due to my old muzzles or maybe even that water hose pressure isn't enough to sustain pressure when the motor is revved up. I have new muzzles ordered so I will try again when they arrive. I guess I will look into the fuel filter now then start testing spark and compression
I just don't get why it was running so strong and then just fell off with no warning and no signs of overheating or obvious failures
any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated
 
I had a 200 with same symptoms it was blocked carb I found this out when cylinder 5 ate itself and lost compression. Might wanna put cleaning carbs on your list. Just a thought and is the first thing i done on replacement motor.
 
so if I understand what your saying you lost #5 due to NO fuel/oil in the cylinder and it scalded it. did your motor seem to idle fine and accelerate good while not in gear, it just seems if 1 carb was blocked you would be missing on 2 cylinders. I am going to replace the fuel water separator and I was going to do a quick check by unplugging each plug, that should give me an idea if I have a cylinder not getting gas and or spark. I'm going to pull each plug and look for tale tale signs as well. hopefully my new muzzles will show up today so I can feel better about a good water flow from the hose. if that isn't enough I guess I'll take it to the boat ramp with some tools and check it out that way or get a barrel to drop the motor in.
 
Yea idle good. You can read the plugs to see how its running someone might chime in and run you though it. I clean carbs on new to me motor before running it now as precaution. Might not be your problem but its cheap to do.
 
so I worked with the motor a little this weekend but due to not having my new muzzles I had to keep it limited. I did find something interesting, I pulled the intake housing off and found the bottom full of water, it wasn't high enough to just pour into the bottom carb but could have allowed some to get in. it was clean water so I'm guessing the PO had washed the motor and sprayed around the intake and didn't have them covered. I pulled all the plugs and they looked good, 3,5 & 6 were a little wet but not enough to concern me. I tried pulling 1 plug wire at a time while it was idling but it didn't make any change no mater which one I pulled. I'm borrowing a plug tester so I will use that as well as do a compression test.
 
I am guassing you mean air box, there is a little hose on the bottom of mine that sux excess fuel to be burnt so water in there could be a problem. Muffs are useless for testing. I got a plastic 44 gallon drum cut the top 1/2 off then you can squish it to fit. Comp and spark testing is a good start or for 60$ you could get head gaskets pull heads and see what you got. All just thoughts. Good luck
 
yes I meant the air box. couple questions. 1) how hot should the water be coming out of the motor. 2) do the thermostats have to open before the water starts coming out
3) can I unplug both plugs related to each carb to do a general test of the carb working without digging into them, unplugging just one at a time had no effect.
I have a micro cam I can use to look into the cylinders to check the pistons, no pulling the heads unless I have to.
 
No tell tail till thermos open, thermos should be 120f, cylinder drop test on water or tub gets better results. Post serial number
 
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can someone tell me what this is and where it goes. I found it laying in the bottom of the motor case

I went out again this weekend, still having issues, however this time when I go to full throttle it didn't just stall out and die, it would only go to about 2K rpm but would stay there, if I throttled it down to about half throttle after a min it would stall and die. again it idled fine. I will be testing all the coils for spark and compression testing it next.
what is the best plug for this motor, it has those plugs that are just flat with no arm going over the electrode, I personally don't like them but not from experience of using them.
 

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faztbullet said:
Cowling drain...... Check spark as sound like you lost a bank
Click to expand...
thanks I will find where it goes and put it back. I will be testing the spark with a inline plug tester next. I just remembered I have another question, on the right head there is what looks like a temp sensor, but it has a plastic end with 2 barbed fittings, one of them has a hose on it the goes back to the carbs, the other barb is just open, 2 questions about it 1) is the one barbed end that doesn't have a hose OK to be open like that, 2) is it OK for the plastic part to spin around loose from the metal part that threads into the head. is this some kind of enriching sensor allowing vacuum to the carbs when open or something along that line, or maybe part of the choke system
 
Its a thermal switch. It blocks off air to carb circuit causing motor to run richer at cold start and opens at temp allowing air into idle circuits.
 
faztbullet said:
Its a thermal switch. It blocks off air to carb circuit causing motor to run richer at cold start and opens at temp allowing air into idle circuits.
Click to expand...
thanks for the explanation.
you were right on the money about my low power issue. I tested all the spark last night and found the left bank is dead. now I'll do some research on trouble shooting it. is there a guide somewhere that I can use to diagnose it. I know I'm going to need to check a few things. I have a good volt/ohm meter and test light, I have a back ground as a diesel mechanic and have rebuilt a couple boat motors over the years but I don't know the electrical side very well
 
Swap the red/blue stator leads from front to rear switchbox and vice versa. If right bank has no fire stator bad..if left still no spark switchbox dead. If switchbox replace as a pair and no crap from Amazon. Only use OEM, Serria or EMP brand(Prufrex) boxes
 
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good deal, that sounds like a pretty easy check. I'll get to that and report back. Thanks for your help so far, I really appreciate it
 
so I swapped the wires around and got a rather interesting result, I switched them back and forth a couple times to confirm the results. OK as it belongs I have 1 3 5 firing and 2 4 6 are dead. I switch the wires on the boxes and I have no spark anywhere at all
I put it back and 1 3 5 are firing again. I thought if it was one side of the stator that the good spark would just move over to the other switch box, or am I missing something
 
faztbullet said:
Swap the red/blue stator leads from front to rear switchbox and vice versa. If right bank has no fire stator bad..if left still no spark switchbox dead. If switchbox replace as a pair and no crap from Amazon. Only use OEM, Serria or EMP brand(Prufrex) boxes
Click to expand...

OK so I feel at the very least I have switch box failures here, I have read it is advised to replace the stator if you replace the boxes. I am totally OK with this but when I try to look up the parts I need I keep finding CDI Electronics brand everywhere, even here on this forum.
is the CDI electronics a good aftermarket brand to use
using my serial # I found 114-7778 box and 174-9610K2 stator is what fits my engine
 
I wanted to report back, I finally got a chance this weekend to replace the stator and switch boxes on my motor. I found one of the yellow wires badly corroded at the plug and when I tried to disconnect it it broke. not sure that was a factor but needed to be repaired. I soldered a new end on it. took the boat out yesterday and it ran like a champ. Thanks for the help and making diagnosing it easy.
 
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