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200/400 hr service on BF200

Blacktimes

Regular Contributor
Done a 200/400 hr service on my twin BF200´s. Engines only have 240 hours on them but they were manufactured in 2011 but were not used until the boat was launched in 2013. Bought it in 2018 with only 35 hours on them. Thinking more about the calendar than the hours, so went ahead and did it myself. Just a few curiosities in case anyone is interested:

Replaced the Timing Belt on both engines. Timing Belts looked brand new but after 10 years I figured to keep on the safe side. Did not remove Flywheel due to the special tool (just in case) and did the job by removing the Tensator. Takes a bit of work to remove & reinstall on the flywheel, but can be done. Let the tensator take the load with positive tensator movement on the anticlockwise movement as Ian also suggested somewhere in the forum (just with a little help from the thumb just in case)

Did the valve adjustments, 48 in total:( All the exhaust valves were tight. Intake valves; more or less 3 of the 12 were ok on each engine, rest had to be done. Used Ian´s post; 0.25mm gauges for intakes & 0.30mm por exhaust). Engines definitely run smoother on idle. Will take her for power run this weekend, weather permitting. I don´t know if to expect some fuel economy improvement maybe... MAP sensor on starboard (Garmin plotter) was a bit high (less vacuum), have read that this can throw the ECU off balance and that it can happen with unadjusted valves...

Fuel filters, LP & HP, clean as a whistle, replaced them anyway. No trace of green mush on the HP´s after 10 years. I think the Racor S3227´s really pay off, not for the mush obviously but for the cleanness of the filters.

Spark plugs. All 12 in the same clean/dry situation. No outstanding ones. Could reuse but with age in mind more than hours have replaced them.

ACG Belts seem new, have not bothered with them and reinstalled, not a main concern and I do carry spares on board.

No leaks or excessive corrosion around the Thermostats. Heard orings leaked in the older models...

Did the mid vertical axle bearing lube last time boat was out of the water. Replaced them just in case 3 years ago, came out in very good condition.

I am leaving the internal anodes for later on. 240 hours are too low. I always flush with Salt Away after use. I know it´s not a good flushing system, but I will address with maybe 400 hrs. Have read many posts where they are still ok at 700-800 hrs.

Hope this helps, if anyone needs any details just ask :)

Anyone on how much a 200/400 hr costs for each engine approx? Just curiosity.
 
Sounds good. Excellent maintenance.

I assume that you checked the throttle linkage and greased the throttle cables at the contact points and cams.

Other things on my personal maintenance list...
1. Check that the activation arm on the IAB is not stuck and operates correctly. (If you want the procedure, send an e-mail to me at [email protected])
2. Check external anodes and make sure the ground wire from the big anode to the stern bracket is in place and making good contact.
3. Grease all zerk fittings.
4. Top off tilt/trim reservoir.
5. Grease engine cover cables and latches.
 
Thanks Chawk, I checked IAB´s, fine, external anodes and bonding jumpers, fine, lube fittings greased with marine grease, tilt trim, forgot that one. Cover cables, latches, throttle linkages, cables at contact and cams, fine. I missed the tilt/trim and will check.
 
Roger that. Looks like you have it well under control from a maintenance perspective.

Over the years I've developed a detailed maintenance schedule for these engines from 100 hours to 1200 hours. Each item is linked to pages in the Helm shop manual and/or owners manual, and part numbers if required. I did this so I wouldn't overlook anything when I pull my own maintenance.

If you want a copy, send an e-mail to me at [email protected] and ask for either the PDF version (which cannot be edited) or the Excel version, which can be edited.
 
I can assure you your 6 block anodes behind the ex manifolds will be non existant and worth looking at because they get very messy. I have just rebuilr a 2017 250 with 137hrs, had a partial submersion,those anodes were gone
 
Ian, these were on 800 hr intervals and I had planned to do them at true 400 hours. Based on your experience, you would not wait to do them at 400?
 
Thanks iang6766. I have the feeling this may vary plenty depending on engine operation on god knows what other factors. I had taken note on 800 hrs based on many posts on various forums.

A step by step guide and results can be seen here with 511 hours Internal anode location - Honda BF200 - The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum I have attached this as a pdf in case anyone is interested. To keep on the safe side, I am going to order the parts, gaskets, etc.View attachment Internal Anodes.pdf
 
Took the Port Exhaust Manifold off to repair the O2 Sensor thread, and here is a two photos of the condition of the internal anodes, before & after cleaning. Have replaced these but won´t bother with the other manifold and engine for the moment as they are in a relatively good condition. Replaced the Manifold Gasket and Orings with new. Will make another post with the thread repair in case it is of interest.After cleaning.jpgIMG_20211129_113419.jpg
 
I was referring to the block anode behind the exhaust manifold, there are three little anode on each bank under the plugs which are removed with a 14mm Allen KEY. These are ****ty little anode and don't last. If you don't have them, then your motor is not 2011 (AK)
 
Ah, ok iang, I don´t have them, mine are AK2´s, that´s why there must be such a difference with the anodes, must admit was a little confused, thanks anyway!
 
AK 1, 2 and 3 have the ****ty little block anode, if you leave them too long they become a proper bugger to remove and clean out to accommodate the new ones.
 
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